Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Strange steering after box replacement

ItchyDong

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Alabama
I replaced my Mercedes box with a new Lares 11356. At low speeds making left and right turns, it’s tight tight tight, and then loosens up. It always returns back to center and all other steering feels normal. I notice it more to the right than I do left. All steering components were replaced 1000 miles ago with the Moog ZJ upgrade. There were no issues prior to the box replacement. I did reuse the original pitman. I know the Lares box was slightly different dimensionally from the original. I called Lares and the said it’s normal break in. But I’ve got about 500 miles on it and it’s not getting better. Is it possible I need a drop pitman? Any advice is appreciated.
 
I replaced my Mercedes box with a new Lares 11356. At low speeds making left and right turns, it’s tight tight tight, and then loosens up. It always returns back to center and all other steering feels normal. I notice it more to the right than I do left. All steering components were replaced 1000 miles ago with the Moog ZJ upgrade. There were no issues prior to the box replacement. I did reuse the original pitman. I know the Lares box was slightly different dimensionally from the original. I called Lares and the said it’s normal break in. But I’ve got about 500 miles on it and it’s not getting better. Is it possible I need a drop pitman? Any advice is appreciated.

That is not normal break in. Either the gear is crap and cut incorrectly and that is causing the bind, or the bore is out of spec on one end. I'm leaning towards the bore. Had you said the steering response is different going one way versus the other, then that would be the steering valve off center relative to the torsion bar and it is out of balance. When that happen, the effort one direction is different than the effort the opposite direction.
No on the drop pitman since you did not describe bumpsteer as one of the symptoms.
 
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That is not normal break in. Either the gear is crap and cut incorrectly and that is causing the bind, or the bore is out of spec on one end. I'm leaning towards the bore. Had you said the steering response is different going one way versus the other, then that would be the steering valve off center relative to the torsion bar and it is out of balance. When that happen, the effort one direction is different than the effort the opposite direction.
No on the drop pitman since you did not describe bumpsteer as one of the symptoms.

I should have mentioned I also replaced the power steering pump and lines with molar lines and a psc pump. Don’t know if that matters. Lares wants me to unhook the drag link and steer left and right to isolate the box if it continues. Like I said, pretty sure my linkage didn’t start binding right as I replace the box. Thanks for your help.
 
I should have mentioned I also replaced the power steering pump and lines with molar lines and a psc pump. Don’t know if that matters. Lares wants me to unhook the drag link and steer left and right to isolate the box if it continues. Like I said, pretty sure my linkage didn’t start binding right as I replace the box. Thanks for your help.

Don't unhook the draglink, jack it up and put it on jack stands. Then cycle it with engine off and see if you can feel the bind then. If you still do, then pop the draglink off. It would be very odd for it to be the linkage.
 
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Check the front and rear trackbars as well to rule that out as an issue. Particularly with the front, any bad joints or loose bolts may result in abnormal movement, which will typically be felt as play in the steering.
 
Steering gear is crap, send it back.

Is PSC the only way to go? I specifically went this route because it was a brand new box. I hedged my bet thinking that the box would work, and replaced my power steering pump with a PSC OEM replacement. If I’m not mistaken, if I go with PSC on the steering box, I’m also going to have to upgrade my pump. Is this correct?
 
Is PSC the only way to go? I specifically went this route because it was a brand new box. I hedged my bet thinking that the box would work, and replaced my power steering pump with a PSC OEM replacement. If I’m not mistaken, if I go with PSC on the steering box, I’m also going to have to upgrade my pump. Is this correct?

I have no idea if PSC is the only way to go. But, yes, if you get their steering gear, it is highly beneficial to get the pump to run it.
 
If it's just the PSC box, the displacement should only be ~20% more than stock. It might be possible to use the existing power steering pump with a somewhat smaller pulley to increase the flow rate. Going from a 5.25" to a 4.5" pulley should be enough to make up most or all of the difference. That said it will shorten the pump life somewhat given that it will be running at higher RPM.

Reach out to PSC; they should know if their pump can handle the higher RPMs.
 
So, it’s fixed. I’ve been playing with it for the past couple of days. I removed the box and put a dial torque wrench on it. Never once did it display the bind I was feeling. When I reinstalled the box and re-bled everything, I had a buddy turn the wheel. A few times turning the wheel to the right, I saw the steering shaft bind a little.

It dawned on me that I had an MORE 1 inch pillow block lift sitting in my cabinet. Took everything apart, lubed the pillow block bearing, installed the lifted bracket, and boom. Fixed. Smooth as butter.

Why I never felt a bind with my stock box, I don’t know. Maybe because it was a sloppy mess? Don’t care. It’s fixed. Thanks for all the replies.
 
Can you explain more about this pillow bock you installed? On the steering shaft? I am having a similar issue.
 
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