Steering Float

scatlin

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Stem, NC
So, I got this '98 Sport 4.0 a month ago or so. It was what appears to be about a 2.5" lift and seems to have been done well from what I can tell. It had 33" tires on 15" rims but I got an extra set of rims and swapped out the 33s for the stock tire size. (235/75-15) I want to keep the 33s for the rare occasion that I off-road but wanted better behaved tires for tooling around on paved roads which comprises most of my driving.

I had the new tires mounted and had an alignment done hoping to fix the steering float. The new tires and the alignment helped with the floating but didn't fix it. As far as I can tell, all of the steering bits and bobs are in good shape. When I turn the steering wheel when stopped the wheels start to turn right away. So, no slop in the steering.

However, when going down the road there is a lot of play in the steering.

Below are some pics that show the lift and some of the steering hardware. Don't worry; the oil spot is a drip from the oil change I did last night. :)

Any ideas?

IMG_0241.jpeg

IMG_0242.jpeg
 
Yeah, I checked that. I should have stated that in the original post. Good catch.

You're right, though. I took that same shop some ATV tires to mount for me a while back. Pressure should have been 7lbs but they filled them to 35psi!
 
My original saginaw steering gear had slop on the sector shaft. On the hwy, I could turn my steering wheel between 11 and 1 oclock before I had any actual reaction to steering. Do a dry steer test and pay close attention to the steering gear.
 
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My original saginaw steering gear had slop on the sector shaft. On the hwy, I could turn my steering wheel between 11 and 1 oclock before I had any actual reaction to steering. Do a dry steer test and pay close attention to the steering gear.

Aight. The 11 & 1 symptom you describe is exactly what I'm experiencing. What do you mean by "dry steer test"?
 
Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look at everything the steering is connected to; steering box, drag link ends, TRE ends, etc. Do it with the engine off so there is some resistance while you look around.
 
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Do it with the engine running so that the power steering helps shove any loose connections around so you can find them.
 
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I just tested with the engine off. Everything is tight down to the gear box. I'll try it again with the engine running but I doubt I'll see a difference. Will report back.

In the meantime... Assuming that the gear box is the issue, any recommendations? I saw some postings about the 16:1 ratio Lares box from Rockauto. I'm using it mostly as a daily driver, so I'm willing to give up some off-road capability if it means a better highway experience.

Thanks.
 
I just tested with the engine off. Everything is tight down to the gear box. I'll try it again with the engine running but I doubt I'll see a difference. Will report back.

In the meantime... Assuming that the gear box is the issue, any recommendations? I saw some postings about the 16:1 ratio Lares box from Rockauto. I'm using it mostly as a daily driver, so I'm willing to give up some off-road capability if it means a better highway experience.

Thanks.

Aight. Tested it with the engine running. Same results.

Can the gear box be rebuilt and is it worth it? Rockauto options are between $250 and $300.
 
Aight. Tested it with the engine running. Same results.

Can the gear box be rebuilt and is it worth it? Rockauto options are between $250 and $300.

Seals can be replaced. But the worn out machined bits and surfaces where the sloppiness occurs cannot unless the entire steering gear is replaced with an entirely new unit.
 
IF you are going to replace the steering gear box you might have a look at redhead steering gears. The cost is not at much as PSC. The pump you receive is not necessarily improved or stronger but they do mic out everything in the gear box so you do get a good remanufactured gear box. I have one and have not had any issues with it. I by no means play in the rocks so it works well for me.

https://www.redheadsteeringgears.co...sk6eH6YgqnAIuisqa47ci7uko8cKyBMUaAvpIEALw_wcB
 
IF you are going to replace the steering gear box you might have a look at redhead steering gears. The cost is not at much as PSC. The pump you receive is not necessarily improved or stronger but they do mic out everything in the gear box so you do get a good remanufactured gear box. I have one and have not had any issues with it. I by no means play in the rocks so it works well for me.

https://www.redheadsteeringgears.co...sk6eH6YgqnAIuisqa47ci7uko8cKyBMUaAvpIEALw_wcB

Rocks or not, the differences between a tight responsive steering gear and a worn one will quickly show on the highway.
 
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IF you are going to replace the steering gear box you might have a look at redhead steering gears. The cost is not at much as PSC. The pump you receive is not necessarily improved or stronger but they do mic out everything in the gear box so you do get a good remanufactured gear box. I have one and have not had any issues with it. I by no means play in the rocks so it works well for me.

https://www.redheadsteeringgears.co...sk6eH6YgqnAIuisqa47ci7uko8cKyBMUaAvpIEALw_wcB

Nice. They are a bit more expensive but I gather it's worth it. From what I've been reading, rebuilt boxes are hit or miss depending on who did the work. Glad to hear RedHead does good work.
 
Nice. They are a bit more expensive but I gather it's worth it. From what I've been reading, rebuilt boxes are hit or miss depending on who did the work. Glad to hear RedHead does good work.

Understand that no one is rebuilding a used steering gear that also addresses the worn machining. If Redhead is less miss and more hit, it is because they are selling you a steering gear that was less worn out than the one you had.
 
Nice. They are a bit more expensive but I gather it's worth it. From what I've been reading, rebuilt boxes are hit or miss depending on who did the work. Glad to hear RedHead does good work.
If your description of the tires turning as soon as you move the steering wheel is accurate, then the box is tight and a different box that is the same amount of tight is not going to fix your floaty problem.
 
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Air pressure? If a shop filled your tires, it's almost always WAY too much.

I think there's actually a sort of diverging response when it comes to tire pressure. Around 35 PSI seems terrible on 35x12.5 from what I've noticed. But 50 PSI is actually really smooth and very responsive. Sub-30 is also fairly smooth, at the cost of more responsive steering. Personally I run about 45-50 for the tighter steering.
 
I think there's actually a sort of diverging response when it comes to tire pressure. Around 35 PSI seems terrible on 35x12.5 from what I've noticed. But 50 PSI is actually really smooth and very responsive. Sub-30 is also fairly smooth, at the cost of more responsive steering. Personally I run about 45-50 for the tighter steering.

Say what now?

Anything above 28psi, for me, is an absolute horror. Uncomfortable, darty steering, jarring over bumps. Local shop as filled them to 35psi and it's like a being on those old metal wheeled roller skates. 45-50? Can't imagine it. Must wreck your tire wear.
 
Also check the ujoint in the steering shaft. I had play in the steering wheel between 11 and 1. The ujoint in the steering shaft between the firewall and the steering box was worn out for me.
 
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