SOLVED: Jeep died, throwing P0340 code, distributor assembly seems broken
- Thread starter GregBelleville
- Start date
Mine was a YJ, but the AC and Alt setup appears to be the same. Was there a bolt that was blocked by the bracket? I didn't have to remove it on mine.
I think the FSM meant to just move the braket to the side.
If you let all the refrigerant out, you'll have to have the system put on a vacuum pump and then it will need to be recharged. If you just let a little of it out, it will just need to be topped off.
I think the FSM meant to just move the braket to the side.
If you let all the refrigerant out, you'll have to have the system put on a vacuum pump and then it will need to be recharged. If you just let a little of it out, it will just need to be topped off.
Don't say that too loud in CA..haha.
It will have to be vacuumed and recharged then.
The main thing you need is a different mechanic. They botched the replacement installation when they installed it without the hold-down clamp. That is probably why it broke in the first place.
Then they couldn't get the timing right after multiple attempts. Then they, along with 1 or 2 members here, convinced you to do a bunch of work to replace parts that don't need replacing. You probably only needed a properly installed distributor to get you back on the road.
I hope you get it all back together.
Why did you have the original distributor replaced? That seems to be how you got started on the path to your current situation.
Then they couldn't get the timing right after multiple attempts. Then they, along with 1 or 2 members here, convinced you to do a bunch of work to replace parts that don't need replacing. You probably only needed a properly installed distributor to get you back on the road.
I hope you get it all back together.
Why did you have the original distributor replaced? That seems to be how you got started on the path to your current situation.
I'm not certain that I ever had that hold down clamp in the first place, the thought crossed my mind that maybe my mechanic didn't reinstall it, but I have no way of knowing it was there in the first place.
As for whether the timing chain needed replacement, not sure if you saw the short video I attached to my previous post from yesterday, but the chain definitely had a fair amount of play in it and additionally the chain tensioner in the cover was also broken, so I'm of the opinion this job needed to be done either way.
The original distributor was replaced when he did my fuel pump. He said he took it for a test drive and it made the tell tale screeching sound they make when the distributor is failing.
The OEM distributor and every after market one I've ever seen has the holes. Here is my OEM one with the holes visible beneath the cam position sensor. One hole is for the 6 cylinder, one is for the 4 cylinder. You can definitely get it lined up by knowing where it's supposed to point when it's at TDC, but this way removes all the error.
Even if the clamp was missing, doubtful if distributor was original, installing a new one without the clamp was a Bubba move, not anything a good professional mechanic would do at least not without the customer's consent.
I won't argue against replacing the harmonic balancer, crank seal, timing set, and chain tensioner. They are all in need of replacement and it would be dumb to put it back together without replacing them. However, none of that stuff was keeping it from running decently.
Your "mechanic" said it jumped time. It did not jump time. Jumping time is something that is often suspected but rarely happens.
BTW, if you can manage the expense, I would replace the belt, belt tensioner, thermostat, and water pump while you have access for preventive maintenance. And of course, a flush and fresh coolant. And if it hasn't already been replaced, do the the radiator as well.
Was it screeching before the fuel pump failed? I thought the screeching was only a thing on the later OPDA assemblies. Do the distributors fail the same way as the OPDAs?
Your mechanic sucks. Glad you are tackling this on your own.
These are aging vehicles, replace anything that looks suspect. Double if its your daily.
With the play you had in the time chain the odds are it would have run like crap. That kind of play allows slop between the crank and the cam and the computer would be very hard pressed to clean it up. Follow the manual and get it back together correctly and you should be fine. Unfortunately by removing the A/C line you will need a shop or someone with the proper tools to run vacuum on the system once back together and then recharge it. Disable the A/C so it can not run until recharged (either pull the A/C clutch relay or unplug the connector at the compressor) releasing the pressure like you did will have blown a fair amount of the oil out of the system. Do put the system back together so it is sealed when done and have it taken care of before to long so any moisture in the system doesnt lead to a more expensive fix.
Hopefully you have a new replacement distributor from the mechanic at this point. If so I wouldn't bother dealing with him anymore you will be better served doing the work yourself and put what you would have spent on labour into the tools you need to look after your ride.
Hopefully you have a new replacement distributor from the mechanic at this point. If so I wouldn't bother dealing with him anymore you will be better served doing the work yourself and put what you would have spent on labour into the tools you need to look after your ride.
Thanks for the tips on handling the AC system, will do.
I hope you're right regarding the play in the chain being cause for the engine still running out of time even after the new distributor was put in. I'm assuming the broken chain tensioner I found in the cover was only causing even further slack in the chain?
I've definitely took advantage of the savings in doing this myself by buying quality parts, and replacing additional items that look worn. I've got a new torque wrench to handle inch pounds to show for it.
The play in chain may not be the full cause of running rough, the crank sensor, cam sensor or other things may be contributing but the chain needs to be done and it definitely was not helping anything. Fixing it is a big step in the right direction and you will know the cam and crank are in phase going forward. With a new distributor you will very quickly know if there is anything else you need to hunt down. Your doing a good job so far just stick with it and keep posting as you go.
Ok all, in back at it today and an preparing to install the chain and gears but I have a question about the gasket kit I received.
There is a black gasket that lines up with the bottom of the chain cover where it meets the oil pan. I'm puzzled about how this should be installed though. As you can see in the photos, there are rubber spikes or nubs on one side of the gasket, but I don't see where these nubs would insert anywhere on either the oil pan or the timing cover? What is their purpose and should this be installed with the nubs facing up towards the chain cover or down towards the pan? I don't believe I had a gasket like this on the cover when I removed it? Any ideas?
Also I'm going to remove the oil pan and replace that gasket as well. Should the oil pan gasket be done prior to putting the timing cover back on, or does it matter?
There is a black gasket that lines up with the bottom of the chain cover where it meets the oil pan. I'm puzzled about how this should be installed though. As you can see in the photos, there are rubber spikes or nubs on one side of the gasket, but I don't see where these nubs would insert anywhere on either the oil pan or the timing cover? What is their purpose and should this be installed with the nubs facing up towards the chain cover or down towards the pan? I don't believe I had a gasket like this on the cover when I removed it? Any ideas?
Also I'm going to remove the oil pan and replace that gasket as well. Should the oil pan gasket be done prior to putting the timing cover back on, or does it matter?
You don't need the black one. It's to repair the front of blue one if you weren't doing the oil pan at the same time.
-Mac
-Mac
Thanks! does it matter whether I replace the timing cover before doing the oil pan gasket?
I would put the timing cover on first, then the oil pan just bolts up directly under it. But it could be done either way, as you can just do the timing cover with the oil pan in place.
Replace the crank seal in the timing cover and use the harmonic balancer to help locate the timing cover so the seal is properly centered around the harmonic balancer/crank.
Install the timing cover first. It's important to get the timing cover positioned so the crank seal doesn't wear unevenly.
Then install the oil pan.
Install the timing cover first. It's important to get the timing cover positioned so the crank seal doesn't wear unevenly.
Then install the oil pan.
Update: yesterday I was able to get the timing set installed, cover put back on. I also reinstalled the harmonic balancer, an idler pulley I removed for access, and the AC compressor.
Today I was going to tackle the oil pan, but after some research it looks like it's a bigger job then expected, likely requiring some removal of the exhaust pipe where it causes understand there pan. Leaving that job for next weekend and just flushed the radiator out today.
Any tips for properly tensioning the serpentine belt when I reinstall it?
Today I was going to tackle the oil pan, but after some research it looks like it's a bigger job then expected, likely requiring some removal of the exhaust pipe where it causes understand there pan. Leaving that job for next weekend and just flushed the radiator out today.
Any tips for properly tensioning the serpentine belt when I reinstall it?
Don't get it too tight...ought to be able to twist the belt 180 degrees. I aim for too loose and tighten if it squeals.
First time I removed my exhaust I cut the down pipe bolts and replaced them. They were rusted.
You're going to probably need to drop the skid plate and remove the transmission mount...it holds up the CAT... support the transmission and ten bolts.
First time I dropped my skid plate I had to cut off the bolts and replace the riv nuts with Mr B's Black Magic Brakes set.
-Mac
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