Simplest Dana 44 rear disc conversion?

AussieNick

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I just discovered the rear diff on my ‘98 is a Dana 44 with drum brakes. I’d like to keep the diff but convert to rear discs for ease of maintenance. What’s the simplest path (least time, least fabrication) ?

Thanks in advance.
 
Simplest, least time, and least fabrication would to be just leave the drums on there. My 44 has drums and I replaced hardware once, and have adjusted only once in the 5 years its been under the rig.
 
Hmm, food for thought. Thank you for the advice. I will open them up tomorrow and see what’s going on in there.
 
Most of the stopping power comes from the front, so there is really no advantage other than getting rid of the drums for easier maintenance (if you can't work on drums).
 
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No advantage? What about offroad braking when going through mud, muck and water?

Enlighten me...I'd rather have discs too, but I am no longer convinced it is worth my while after hearing from many of the experts here.
 
Drum brakes aren’t good for wheeling. if your going to wheel, id suggest swapping to disc. You can never have to much brake in my opinion.
I admittedly know very little about offloading, but how can drum brakes be sufficient to stop a Jeep with 60mph of kinetic energy behind it, but be insufficient to stop one on an incline at 5mph?
 
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Experts? I would question that.
Just read this article from 2010. It’s a 14 bolt axle, which you don’t have, but it hits some points on drum brakes.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-1103-14-bolt-disc-brake-conversion/
Drum brakes aren’t good for wheeling. if your going to wheel, id suggest swapping to disc. You can never have to much brake in my opinion.

Thanks, I read it, but I'm not an expert to say anything about it. You do realize this website is both quoting and trying to sell something provided by a sponsored vendor, right?

I can honestly say though, there is no way this is going to help me personally, since I barely get the chance to off-road in my TJ. And when I can, it is nothing that has me working the brakes in such a fashion that would cause any issues with drum brakes. They get worked harder on the road every day in my case.
 
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Sorry about re-opening that can of worms 😁

Per my original post, I am only interested in the maintenance aspect.

If the LJ swap is simpler than or equal to rebuilding my drums, that would be nice!
 
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I suppose the 'why do disc' guys are just saying you aren't going to get any real performance gains by going to discs so maybe recondition the existing drum setup and spend the cash on something you'll get better bang for buck out of. Like an upgraded front set of brakes from Blaine.

That said, I think any of the rear disc kits would be ok. Some come with new brake cables some without so check on that. They will be easier to maintain than drums from a changing pad perspective but they wear so slowly its a bit of a mute point.

I'd still do it though if you feel the need, it's your Jeep afterall.
 
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I suppose the 'why do disc' guys are just saying you aren't going to get any real performance gains by going to [rear] discs so maybe recondition the existing [rear] drum setup and spend the cash on something you'll get better bang for buck out of. Like an upgraded front set of brakes from @mrblaine . . . .

That's what I would do if I were in @ncfitton 's situation.
 
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Sorry about re-opening that can of worms 😁

Per my original post, I am only interested in the maintenance aspect.

If the LJ swap is simpler than or equal to rebuilding my drums, that would be nice!

TJ Unlimited discs are not unique to that model. The same backing plates are found on all TJ's from 03-06 that came with the rear disc brake option. All Rubicon models came with them as standard equipment. The same backing plate is also found on quite a few Liberty models. Essentially the same are the ones on a ZJ with the rear disc option. Essentially because the center bore has to be opened up to fit over the Set 10 bearings.

All require flex hoses, attaching one end to the axle so the hard lines can be attached. Hard lines have to be cut and flare or purchased that way. Bearings have to pulled so the retainers can be put on the shafts behind the seals.

Very little difference in the work required unless you happen to find a complete take off set from a Rubi (or similar)including the shafts then it is just a straight bolt on affair.
 
“disc systems definitely work better in the 'wheeling world, because they offer consistent operation in high-heat and wet situations and are much easier to maintain and adjust.”
- Rick pewe while editor at JP.

I guess he is full of shit according to you...

Explain to me what exactly: "they offer consistent operation in high-heat and wet situations" means. I've never had a single problem with my drums off-road, but maybe I'm missing something here.