Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Rock Sliders / Rocker Guards Guide

Hey all, this thread was a huge help to me when deciding which sliders to buy, so I thought I'd share some info I recently learned so the OP may be updated.

The JCR Crusader TJ/LJ sliders have unfortunately been discontinued.

Today I received the set that I had ordered for my LJ a few weeks ago. I searched for the sliders on JCR's website to review the install instructions and couldn't find the product. I called talked tech support and spoke with Chris, who was really good to deal with. He sent me the link for the install YouTube video. But, he informed me that the Sliders have since been discontinued, unfortunately, due to lack of sales. My order was one of the last ones out the door. No worries warranty-wise, but they won't be producing any more sets.

Definitely glad I pulled the trigger when I did. I've run JCR stuff on my previous Jeeps (XJ, LJ #1) and have always been a huge fan of their products.
 
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Joop said:
Hey all, this thread was a huge help to me when deciding which sliders to buy, so I thought I'd share some info I recently learned so the OP may be updated.

The JCR Crusader TJ/LJ sliders have unfortunately been discontinued.

Today I received the set that I had ordered for my LJ a few weeks ago. I searched for the sliders on JCR's website to review the install instructions and couldn't find the product. I called talked tech support and spoke with Chris, who was really good to deal with. He sent me the link for the install YouTube video. But, he informed me that the Sliders have since been discontinued, unfortunately, due to lack of sales. My order was one of the last ones out the door. No worries warranty-wise, but they won't be producing any more sets.

Definitely glad I pulled the trigger when I did. I've run JCR stuff on my previous Jeeps (XJ, LJ #1) and have always been a huge fan of their products.
Click to expand...

Good. Now if you make these 6 corrections before you paint and install they’ll be much better.

Post in thread 'Rock Sliders / Rocker Guards Guide'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rock-sliders-rocker-guards-guide.8704/post-1290010
 
JMT said:
Good. Now if you make these 6 corrections before you paint and install they’ll be much better.

Post in thread 'Rock Sliders / Rocker Guards Guide'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rock-sliders-rocker-guards-guide.8704/post-1290010
Click to expand...

When did you edit the OP to include that information, today or 9/25/24? Sure as hell would've been helpful to know that when I ordered them. Granted, I'm partially to blame because I admit that I did not read this entire thread before ordering. But, I based most of my decision upon your description of the sliders in OP, which appears to be occasionally updated and at the time did not include that information.
 
Joop said:
When did you edit the OP to include that information, today or 9/25/24? Sure as hell would've been helpful to know that when I ordered them. Granted, I'm partially to blame because I admit that I did not read this entire thread before ordering. But, I based most of my decision upon your description of the sliders in OP, which appears to be occasionally updated and at the time did not include that information.
Click to expand...

The description since 9/25/24 contains the most important correctives.

“
Bolts through the torque box into the floor of the tub which is dumb. Modify by using 7-8 nutserts in the torque boxes. The spacer for the rear torque boxes is not high enough. Add an additional 3/16" spacer before installing. Use the provided internal spacer that you ditched for nutserts. Add an additional nutsert near the Jeep emblem on your tub to hold the tub flush against the slider. Requires additional modifications to make it better. The boatside step is not ww2ww, only the backing plate.”
 
bluescapegoat said:
Update on the CavFabs. @JMT for the top post they weigh 64 lbs and the sides are countersunk, the bottoms are not countersunk. The 4 holes on the bottom are straight through 3/8 and comes with panhead hardware.

The rearmost side mounting point on my TJ is cut out and accessible from the back - you may need an additional nutsert here if you can't access it for a nyloc. The backer I'm putting inside is only a 1x1 3/16" aluminum angle I had laying around. It's not overly substantial but it's certainly stronger than nothing. If you skip this then you don't need the (6) longer 1" bolts for the sides. The original packaging came with enough hardware for the sides. It ships with only 4 holes in the bottom of each slider and panhead screws for those locations.

This is what I used, in total:

(2) 3" x 1.5" - 3/8" chunks of steel (for spacer)
(2) 9.5" x 1.25" - 3/16" chunks of steel (for spacer)
(2) 20" 1x1 3/16" angle (for backers)
(20) 5/16-18 nutserts (for bottom and blind sides)
(6) 5/16-18x1.5 hex bolts (for bottom)
(8) 5/16-18x1.0 hex bolts (for bottom)
(24) 5/16 washers (for inside sides and bottom)
(10) 5/16-18 nyloc nuts (for sides)
(5) 5/16-18x0.75 countersunk screws (for sides)
(3) 5/16-18x1.0 countersunk screws (for side through backer)

Blair Spotweld Cutter
Nutsert Tool
17/32 bit
3/8 bit
1/2 step bit

The raised section for the rear torque box comes up about 3/16 short on my Jeep, and the existing spacer is about 3/8". So, I stacked some metal to make up the difference. Bolted through to clamp it together and welded it up. I wasn't worried about these welds being pretty.

Once you have the rocker tight against the side and bottom of the tub, drill out the holes with the 3/8 spotweld cutter. Remove the center bit and spring from the cutter first. For the deeper spacer holes on the bottom you'll need to use a 3/8 bit. I used a chunk of wood and bottle jack to act as a drill press to make easy work of drilling out those holes.

Once you have all your holes drilled, remove the rockers and enlarge the holes that require nutserts using the 1/2" step bit, then the 17/32 bit. Install the nutserts.

All in all, they seem pretty substantial and I like the result a lot. There aren't many options for tube-less side armor that mounts to the torque box. These rails go to the wheel well in the rear, but stop short in the front.

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I got the passenger side mounted perfectly square but the driver's side is a bit crooked. Not sure if that's from tub inconsistencies or the fact I'm on limited sleep and in a hurry to meet a deadline. Take your time!

::edit::

painted and tested (y)

View attachment 457197
Click to expand...

Small TJ.jpg


The CavFab sliders are $208 today for cyber monday. Killer deal imo
 
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True but as tested so far they are stout! I am highly tempted to attempt to follow @mrblaine 's advice and add a 1.5" stand-off rub rail to them to keep the rocks out of my doors. As I may have added a small trophy scar to my door this summer that a rub rail could have prevented.
 
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chudlet said:
True but as tested so far they are stout! I am highly tempted to attempt to follow @mrblaine 's advice and add a 1.5" stand-off rub rail to them to keep the rocks out of my doors. As I may have added a small trophy scar to my door this summer that a rub rail could have prevented.
Click to expand...

Totally agree, that’s a picture of my Jeep so didn’t scare me away but I just wanted to make sure that that people know there are compromises.
 
JoseA said:
@Blake Stamper , which screws did you install with rivetnuts vs regular nuts? Mine came in without instructions, emailed them to ask for some and they don't have them.
Click to expand...

I replaced all my bolts with m8 torx, on areas where you can’t get to it use a riv nut, if not use a serrated flange nut.

Everything I used was bellmetric
 
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I weighed my PS rock sliders. With full steps, both, together, weigh 70 lbs.

Like the rest of my armor, etc, it's steel and I don't care. Nth degree, rock hard 4X4, Garvin, poison Spyder, all steel, all heavy, IDGAF. Lol 🤣
 
ejay said:
I weighed my PS rock sliders. With full steps, both, together, weigh 70 lbs.

Like the rest of my armor, etc, it's steel and I don't care. Nth degree, rock hard 4X4, Garvin, poison Spyder, all steel, all heavy, IDGAF. Lol 🤣
Click to expand...

I hope they hold up 😉
 
ejay said:
I weighed my PS rock sliders. With full steps, both, together, weigh 70 lbs.

Like the rest of my armor, etc, it's steel and I don't care. Nth degree, rock hard 4X4, Garvin, poison Spyder, all steel, all heavy, IDGAF. Lol 🤣
Click to expand...

We all have our own value systems and I certainly don't care how you build your rig. It is yours, it just has to make you happy.
 
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