Replacing washing machine water valves

[Chris]

Went to replace the washing machine in our house the other day and when I turned off the hot and cold water valves they started to leak from the top of the valve.

My guess is that after decades of calcium build-up the rubber gasket inside the valve was destroyed the moment I turned them.

I can’t get a plumber out here until late next week unfortunately. I am not a plumber but I’m very good with soldering. I’ve never tried brazing but I’m guessing I should be able to fix this myself, no?

I am thinking if I use a pair of wrenches and try to get that valve off that it’s not going to come off. It looks corroded and I’m guessing the right way to fix this is to just cut the lines, clean them, and then braze on some new fittings.

My question for the plumbers here (@Plumber1) is what would be the best way to fix this? I am no plumber so I’m just speculating.

There’s an identical cold water valve right below this one.

 

[03coloradowrangler]

Have you tried tightening the packing/gland nut below the knob? looks like its seeping pretty good from the shaft the knob is attached to.

 

[Chris]

Have you tried tightening the packing/gland nut below the knob? looks like its seeping pretty good from the shaft the knob is attached to.

View attachment 531320

I’ll give that a try, though I’m not sure the nut has anymore room to be tightened down on the collar. I’ll do this before I go any further though to see if it makes a difference.

 

[03coloradowrangler]

Make sure you have the ability to shut off your main before you mess with anything.

Had lots of water valves to mess with on a constant basis at the last job, almost always resulting in a shaft leak. Generally just a little snug up on the nut and the leak stopped. if it just reduced the leak or didnt do anything at all, we would just cut it out and sweat in a new one. Im no plumber.. but im also not a mechanic jack of all trades and a master of none.

Id avoid going the shark bite route if the idea crosses your mind at some point. never had a failure with a shark bite fitting of any type.. but I would only use them if there absolutely wasn't a way to torch in a new fitting.

 

[Chris]

Make sure you have the ability to shut off your main before you mess with anything.

Had lots of water valves to mess with on a constant basis at the last job, almost always resulting in a shaft leak. Generally just a little snug up on the nut and the leak stopped. if it just reduced the leak or didnt do anything at all, we would just cut it out and sweat in a new one.

Id avoid going the shark bite route if the idea crosses your mind at some point. never had a failure with a shark bite fitting of any type.. but I would only use them if there absolutely wasn't a way to torch in a new fitting.

I’m unfamiliar with the shark bite and sweating lingo.

I’m trying to locate the main water shutoff for the house. It’s on a well so it’s different than all of the other houses I’ve lived in.

I am hoping that in the worst case I could just remove these valves without cutting anything, but I’m guessing with the calcium build up that they’re corroded onto their fittings.

EDIT: looked up the shark bite fittings. Those never crossed my mind. I’ve never brazed a fitting before but I would learn how before I used one of those.

 

[ColoJeep]

Make sure you have the ability to shut off your main before you mess with anything.

^ THIS^

 

[ColoJeep]

Find the electrical beaker for the well , typically you won't have a main shut off valve for the whole house. Plan a time when you won't need to use water. turn off the water heater , Drain the water pressure from the system from a sink .
Have EVERYthing you need : valves , teflon tape/ pipe dope , tools , access to valves etc.. BEFORE you start in .
How far away is town ? ,You don't live 10 minutes from the Depot. Welcome to real rural life . Actually you will be much better for it Chris !
Glad the move happened !

 

[03coloradowrangler]

I’m unfamiliar with the shark bite and sweating lingo.

I’m trying to locate the main water shutoff for the house. It’s on a well so it’s different than all of the other houses I’ve lived in.

I am hoping that in the worst case I could just remove these valves without cutting anything, but I’m guessing with the calcium build up that they’re corroded onto their fittings.

shark bites are a fitting option you will see in the plumbing aisle, usually targeted towards the homeowner for a simple quick repair. you literally just have to cut the bad part out of a water pipe, debur the pipe and push on the fitting and you are done with the job.
they are also good when you have a cut pipe that won't stop dribbling water preventing you from soldering.

sweating is just slang for soldering pipe.

flip the breaker for the well and open a valve somewhere below the washer to drain out the plumbing

 

[ColoJeep]

Shark bite fitting are quick and easy . And for what it's worth plumbers use the same technology using " Pro Press " fittings .
The pipe O.D. has to be clean without scale or scratches for the O-ring to seal .
From the photo you posted , I would shut down the well , try to tighten the gland nut . short term fix.
PLAN on the real fix with proper supplies eta... and just do it. Looks like you could just remove the old valves from the female adapters , dope up new valves, and install. Be sure to use wrenches on both sides , ( female adapter and valve ) , so you don't cause a leak in the wall and get a new education on sweating copper or shark bites . lol...

 

[Zorba]

There "should be" a valve at the output of the well's pressure tank. I'd give that valve a twist to see if it comes off. Brass/Copper threads "usually" don't bind up - but I'm a smartphone when it comes to plumbing (Pretty useless, but I get lucky from time to time).

 

[Chris]

Have you tried tightening the packing/gland nut below the knob? looks like its seeping pretty good from the shaft the knob is attached to.

View attachment 531320

Interestingly enough this actually worked!

 

[Dr. Internet]

Before removing the valves, heavily corroded, wash with vinegar. That will remove the calcium. Next, tighten the gland nut on the top of the valve. If the leaking does not stop follow the proceedure below. Note, I live in an area with a lot of minerals in the water and have several 70 yr old valves that work fine. Cleaning and adjusting is better than replacing.

If you have not done plumbing soldering before, this is not the situation in which to learn. The risks are too great, including burning yourself, burning down your house, damaging the plumbing to the point where you cannot turn the house water back on, and generating a $5,000 plumbing bill. Thre is no brazing in residential plumbing. All copper pipes are soldered together using solder, flux, and heat.

If your valve actually looks like the valve in the photo, you don't need to solder anything, It unscrews from the mating pipe fixture. You just need a couple of large wrenches. You could use open end, adjustable. or pipe wrenches. You will need big wrenches to unscrew it, but it will unscrew.

Turn off the house water.
Relieve the pressure in the pipes by opening the taps in the kitchen sink - hot and cold.
Remove the washing machine hoses.
Using two wrenches, unscrew one of the valves. The second wrench is to prevent turning the pipe that the valve is srewed into. You do not want to twist that pipe.
Examine the threads in the pipe fitting and clean, if necessary.
Using the same steps, remove the second pipe and clean the fitting.
Wrap Teflon tape no more than 3 times around the new valve fitting's threads.
Install the new valve until fairly tight. Using the wrenches, turn the valve to the correct orientation, It is unlikely tahat you can overtighten them. Remember to use both wrenches.
Repeat for second valve.
Close both valves.
Close kitchen sink taps.
Turn on water.
Look for leaks.
If you find a leak around the threads, using the big wrenches, tighten the leaking valve another turn,
When the leak stops, reconnect the hoses and open the valves.

Good Luck!

 

[Paradiddle]

Home Depot, buy Sharkbite valves and whatever tools you lack to do the job correctly (pipe cutter, pipe brush, sand paper, etc.)

It's about a 10 min job.

 

[CreepinDeth]

ALWAYS ALWAYS close the main before ANY water work

Get rid of all valves like this
The gaskets erode and leak

I replace all my valves with ball valves
Theres alot of options, compression, shark bite, etc
You can do it yourself, just watch some Youtube University
Personally I prefer compression but thats me

As for that picture, I cant see it well enough
But Id guess possibly some kind of paste was used on the threads. It looks like dated goober

 

[TJ4Jim]

Shark Bite not gonna work there as it appears to be a female 90 deg adapter before the valve with a short nipple or male threaded hose bib between. Hold back on the adapter ell and spin the old valve off and replace completely with a preferred ball valve.

This would probably be a direct replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/Eastman-Brass-Outlet-Quarter-48600/dp/B00838ICS8/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[bucky]

Are you sure that valve is not threaded? On all my rentals I switch to 1/4 turn valves and seem to have better results with no stuck valves. Also always back of 1/2 to 1 turn from full to prevent sticking. Flooding from washing machine hose failure is one of the most common insurance claims. I’m having a tough time getting insurance on the last house I bought. Failed to get coverage because tenants had trash in the back yard and tree branches too close to the roof. They never got to the inside. Luckily it has 5yr old plumbing. The land is worth more than the house. 1/2 acre industrial next to my 1 acre house and shop.
How are you liking the new area?

 

[Plumber1]

Before removing the valves, heavily corroded, wash with vinegar. That will remove the calcium. Next, tighten the gland nut on the top of the valve. If the leaking does not stop follow the proceedure below. Note, I live in an area with a lot of minerals in the water and have several 70 yr old valves that work fine. Cleaning and adjusting is better than replacing.

If you have not done plumbing soldering before, this is not the situation in which to learn. The risks are too great, including burning yourself, burning down your house, damaging the plumbing to the point where you cannot turn the house water back on, and generating a $5,000 plumbing bill. Thre is no brazing in residential plumbing. All copper pipes are soldered together using solder, flux, and heat.

If your valve actually looks like the valve in the photo, you don't need to solder anything, It unscrews from the mating pipe fixture. You just need a couple of large wrenches. You could use open end, adjustable. or pipe wrenches. You will need big wrenches to unscrew it, but it will unscrew.

Turn off the house water.
Relieve the pressure in the pipes by opening the taps in the kitchen sink - hot and cold.
Remove the washing machine hoses.
Using two wrenches, unscrew one of the valves. The second wrench is to prevent turning the pipe that the valve is srewed into. You do not want to twist that pipe.
Examine the threads in the pipe fitting and clean, if necessary.
Using the same steps, remove the second pipe and clean the fitting.
Wrap Teflon tape no more than 3 times around the new valve fitting's threads.
Install the new valve until fairly tight. Using the wrenches, turn the valve to the correct orientation, It is unlikely tahat you can overtighten them. Remember to use both wrenches.
Repeat for second valve.
Close both valves.
Close kitchen sink taps.
Turn on water.
Look for leaks.
If you find a leak around the threads, using the big wrenches, tighten the leaking valve another turn,
When the leak stops, reconnect the hoses and open the valves.

Good Luck!

These all very good directions the only thing I would add is to make sure you wrap the Teflon tape in a clockwise direction otherwise it will unravel when you tighten the fittings.

 

[Danarch]

I saw those shark bite parts in Lowes or HD when I was replacing an exterior valve. Figured why not, it’s outside and if leaks oh well. It has probably been 8 years and not one single leak. I was a little surprised it worked.

 

[Paradiddle]

I saw those shark bite parts in Lowes or HD when I was replacing an exterior valve. Figured why not, it’s outside and if leaks oh well. It has probably been 8 years and not one single leak. I was a little surprised it worked.

I've used them plenty. They really do work great. We had our house repiped (very common in CA due to our hard water and copper pipe) and they used similar press fittings on the PEX. I figured if a professional used them, why not.

I've sweated many pipes and IMO it sucks. Typically you are inside the wall so you need to make sure you don't catch the house on fire, but the worst part for me is that you can't tell if you did it right UNTIL you turn the water back on. If you are working outside the wall/house then sweating is probably the best solution.

 

[egclassic]

Been a plumber for 32 years now, and I still can't bring myself to use Shark-bite fittings, LOL.
I do use a lot of pro-press but still like soldering too.
For your repair, I would just pick up a couple of these and be done. https://www.lowes.com/pd/RELIABILT-1-2-in-Fip-Brass-Quarter-Turn-Hose-Bibb/5014536977. No more packing nut to worry about.