@NashvilleTJ I like the hedge trimmer! Some of the old roads around here would be much easier to clear with one of those over a saw or machete.
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I believe a bush-hog would be more appropriate for that trail
Powersaws - what's everyone using?
- Thread starter thedustyboot
- Start date
The thing I liked most about my old Homelites is that they had a manual oil plunger so I could add extra lube to the chain on the hard dry stuff. I wish the new stuff had that option. I cut out a lot of 70-100 year old citrus trees and it’s not uncommon to hit horse shoes that were placed in the trees when they fell off the horse. It’s amazing that a trees will just grow around stuff and you can’t see it until you hit it. Hard to resharpen bent teeth.
I need to Google carbide saw chains. I’m sure they’re pricy.
I need to Google carbide saw chains. I’m sure they’re pricy.
I seen carbide chains on Ebay, $70CAD for 20" 3/8 .063, and $100CAD for 36" 3/8 .058 carbide chain... Certainly cheaper than the .404 chain I need for my 36" and 42" bars
I seen carbide chains on Ebay, $70CAD for 20" 3/8 .063, and $100CAD for 36" 3/8 .058 carbide chain... Certainly cheaper than the .404 chain I need for my 36" and 42" bars
There was is an ebay seller in Illinois who sells Stihl branded carbide tipped chains. A little over twice as much as regular chain at the time.
You know how well /fast a saw cuts with a freshly sharpened chain?....that's what the carbide chain cuts like all day, week, year if you don't knock the teeth off.
It's a "game changer" for me.
Ive been happy with the Echos. I bought the 590 and a 310 about 6 yrs ago. They saw alot of work for a couple yrs clearing this lot. I crank em up two three times a yr now and never have an issue.
Head Lice
TJ Addict
Put a new bar on my Husqvarna 562XP...you can tell a bar is worn when the edge is razor sharp. Replaced the spark plug and ring sprocket.
Considering a ported top handle T540 from Redbeard Saws but I'm not in love with the safety chain. If it was the same pitch and gauge .050 3/8s I'd be more convinced.
-Mac
Considering a ported top handle T540 from Redbeard Saws but I'm not in love with the safety chain. If it was the same pitch and gauge .050 3/8s I'd be more convinced.
-Mac
While us LS powered rigs don’t need a 3 foot bar to compensate, we do prefer a solid 12”.
I carry an electric Stihl, I think it’s the MS120. Does well for trail work.
Head Lice
TJ Addict
Many 'saw folks' remove the outer set of dogs, many others remove the chain brake.
Sure but not if you want to do volunteer or even contract work for the Forest Service or for that matter anyone with a safety program.
-Mac
Head Lice
TJ Addict
When putting the backcut into that big fir 'nugget' with a double dogged saw, there's a slight risk of splitting the saw with a dog set above the cut, and another below when that 'nugget' begins to tip over . . . heads up, stay safe!
get the speedcut nano bar/chain combo for the t540 from Westcoastsaw.com I see you already have his 3-point dogs
got them on almost every saw i ownI have an old 200T i want to get running as my next jeep saw, it'll be a bit more compact than my cheapo ms170 i currently use
also, I'm saving up for a 562 mk2, how do you like yours? I have a 2019 365xp that is my main firewood saw right now but want to get my first 5 series saw and the 562 is my top pick currently.
It's good but it's boggy and really needs sharp chains.
If I did it over again I'd just buy one from West Coast that was ported right off the bat.
-Mac
Head Lice
TJ Addict
get the speedcut nano bar/chain combo for the t540 from Westcoastsaw.com I see you already have his 3-point dogs
I have an old 200T i want to get running as my next jeep saw, it'll be a bit more compact than my cheapo ms170 i currently use
also, I'm saving up for a 562 mk2, how do you like yours? I have a 2019 365xp that is my main firewood saw right now but want to get my first 5 series saw and the 562 is my top pick currently.
Wondering if you've had anything from Walker's Saw Shop in Nanaimo? Bob built competition saws, and tweaked Husky saws for production.
I would never remove the chain brake on a saw. I'll run the antique saws for fun through one or two cuts that don't have them, but I'd never run a modern saw without it functioning as a "daily cutting machine". I've seen way too many incidents cutting, even with professionals where the chain brake saved them or at least minimized the injury. Especially when you start getting into full chisel chains and sketchy areas with wet ground or multiple limbs/trees down that need bucking.
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