That’s ok, is it difficult or impossible to measure with the wheels on?
I’m going to go check it out on Friday I think.
It’s on a YJ with a long arm kit. Any chance the mounts would work for my tj minus the springs since it has coilovers
Possible front axle swap
- Thread starter RHanna
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I’m going to go check it out on Friday I think.
It’s on a YJ with a long arm kit. Any chance the mounts would work for my tj minus the springs since it has coilovers
Well with my 38" TSL tires on 4" back spaced rims I was 76" outside tire to outside tire. So if it's approx that width then it's close to Waggy width. The only true way is to take the wheels off and measure wheel mount surface to wheel mount surface which should be 61".
You could measure track width ( middle of tire to middle of tire) which is closer to the WMS.
It's hard to say what might be able to be reused or not without seeing it.
Highly unlikely. What is highly likely is you over torqued them which removed the post heat treat straightening and made the flanges wobble.
Interesting. Is it that just throwing the throttle to it in the rocks can twist it enough to heat it up and impact the heat treat?
No, just any over-torque that over rotates the axle shaft will or can take it to post heat treat condition. When they heat treat a shaft, it warps the crap out of it. They barber pole and corkscrew all over the place. They put them in a machine that has live centers and a dial indicator on the flange. They rotate the shaft and then a hydraulic press that can travel the length of the shaft is moved into various spots on the shaft to bend it. They aren't trying to make it straight, they are just trying to get the flange to run concentric to the splined end. When they get that to less than .005 run out, they are good.
When you bind up a rear or over load it, you over rotate the shaft and it can go back to post treat state or a new one that is allowing the flange to have run out. It is just your basic plastic deformation, nothing more.
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Thanks for the lesson, Blaine. Makes sense, as both times I bent a shaft it was very slight - just enough to notice and hear the rotors moving the brake calipers a bit, which is what tipped me off in both cases.
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Where did you watch them straighten shafts?You beat me to it. I was just typing out the same thing.
For the HP44, it would have cast-in leaf-spring pads if it was from a F250, as well as 8-lug hubs (assuming they were still original). The F150 version would be 5-lug and have either welded-on or cast-in radius arm mounts. If they are welded on, it's a pre-78 version. It should be 1/2" thick tubes and 65.5" WMS width (again assuming nothing has been swapped). The F250 version is 2" WMS wider due to differences in knuckles/hubs of the 8-lug setup. If he's running an 8.8, it could possibly be from a Bronco/F150, which are ~65" WMS I believe. If both are 5-lug 5x5.5" pattern, it's likely a F150 axle front and rear.
Curious to see what you find out when you take a look...
Curious to see what you find out when you take a look...
He isn't the owner that installed the axles so he's going off of the previous owners information. He indicated that the rear was from an explorer 8.8 and the HP44 was narrowed to match (not sure if he meant exactly match or with 0.5" or 1"). It has a blackdiamond x2 lift on it for a YJ and I'm researching information but it's difficult because that lift isn't sold now. 5x5.5 lug nut pattern.
I'd guess that you won't know much more than you already do until you can get eyes on it. I'd say if the price is right then I'd pick it up and have the proper brackets installed.
The lower link axle brackets might be okay and same with the upper. Then as you said you'd still need to install spring pads.
That would be nice. I'll need to get some measurements on my current dana 30 axle to see how close it is. Of course it may be easier to just remove what he has and buy a truss axle swap kit. I guess that depends on how they narrowed it.
It has an ARB locker and I don't know anything about that type. Is there an inexpensive compressor that runs the locker that I would need to install? Can it just run off a tank?
The ARB locker can be operated by any air source as long as it has 100PSI. Then you need a valve of some type to apply and remove the air from it. I've seen guys use manual valves before but most use some type of electric solenoid. If you have a Power Tank you can also use that to operate the locker.
I have a kit I bought from Power Tank operating both my front and rear ARB's using my OBA system as the air source.
I wheel with a couple folks that run the HP44 setup on Early Broncos. They run stock shafts with 37" tires and heavy wheels. Over years of wheeling with them, the only thing I've ever seen break has been outer u joints and hubs.
ARB compressor (not really considered cheap) would be my recommendation otherwise Viair is a good alternative.
A quick addition to Rick’s thoughts: A regulator is critical in the air setup for the ARB. Throw much more the 100 psi at them and they will blow the seals.
I swore someone posted a while ago that the old rule of thumb of no more than 90 PSI was no longer the rule. And that pressures above 100PSI were OK? I can't search for that post since that member has me on ignore.
I bought a viair 400p for $75 off of facebook marketplace about a month ago. I'm not sure that would work though.
Very common misconception. Daniel from ARB actually walked up and handed me a 150 PSI pressure switch for my ARB compressor he brought over from Australia when he visited KOH one year. They came up with it to help the racers slow down how much they were crash locking the lockers and tearing them up. More pressure helped them shift faster and engage sooner. They are tested to 200 psi.
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