Mopar water pump, I think the radiator cap is from NAPA. I've tried three, same result. No boiling in the coolant overflow bottle. Not the original radiator though, I couldn't find a new Mopar so I think I bought an OE design CSF one from Rockauto that someone on this forum I think had a decent experience with?
Phoenix Jeeps, where does your temp gauge sit right now?
- Thread starter adventureboss
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Mopar water pump, I think the radiator cap is from NAPA. I've tried three, same result. No boiling in the coolant overflow bottle. Not the original radiator though, I couldn't find a new Mopar so I think I bought an OE design CSF one from Rockauto that someone on this forum I think had a decent experience with?
I think here's what I'll do. I'm going to just do a couple more chemical flushes and then flush with distilled water till it runs kit. Maybe get one of those flush n fill kits where you put that T shaped thing inline with the heater hose to backflush the system? I'll come back here if it actually makes a difference, or actually I'll update regardless. I have a feeling it won't, but I'm just going to rule out the possibility of junk in the system.
If it does nothing, I'm calling it normal.
If it does nothing, I'm calling it normal.
I am having the same issue!! My gauge rises at idle with the ac on. And I bought a stupid OBD2 scanner with the torque pro app and FML.. you thought you were always looking at the gauges before. So my dash gauge with shore just last the 210 like yours. But my torque dash will show the temp at 230-2450. But there will be no hissing or boiling. So I'm starting to think I've dumped all this money because of a darkness app. It's 3am in mesa now and I have been out at the jeep all night. And I went to Rolls OHV last weekend with the ac on and it did fine. ACTUALLY!!! I had the hood up while airing up for 40 minutes with the ac on full blast at 3pm and it never hit over 205. So I'm thinking maybe my exhaust gasket is bad and it's pouring more heat into the engine bay. So I bought a hood louver Monday. It doesn't jump up as fast so that's why I'm out tonight I guess I'm just gonna try the gasket. I'll be here if anyone wants to help lol
No need for WW, and it doesn’t help nearly as much anyways when mixed up with coolant. I’ve used it in the cooling system and noticed zero change. The amount I have left only goes in my intercooler, which is likely also being wasted since I added more coolant to the ratio this winter. There has been no penalty in my intake temps using more coolant. More of a reason to not worry about it.
I also didn’t notice a penalty when running a higher coolant concentration than 50/50. YMMV
My temps are usually in the 195-203 range in town, and they climb more towards 210-217when pushing it with the turbo on the highway in the 110* heat.
I don’t look at the stock gauge anymore because it’s not very accurate. I have a general idea of what the needle equates to compared to the real numbers on my digital gauge, but I’ve also noticed that the needle sometimes isn’t where it should be for a given temp.
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It’s not boiling over bc your coolant and radiator cap raise the boiling temp.
I would not assume you need an exhaust manifold gasket just because your ECTs are up with the AC on. In fact, I wouldn’t pursue it for that reason unless it’s so bad that you should be doing it for other reasons.
You can do a pressurized smoke test at the tail pipe and see where your exhaust leaks are. It could simply be the heat of the exhaust manifold maybe. I can’t explain why your temps dropped since I don’t have all the details.
However, I did my gasket because it was leaking and it didn’t change the ECTs climbing in idle with the AC (nor did I expect it would when idling around 800 rpm).
My AC made my ECTs high in idle and the only thing that changed it for me was installing a more aggressive fan setup. I had zero issues when the AC was off. I can’t say what you need but I wouldn’t change the exhaust manifold gasket unless you know it needs to be done. Don’t expect it to reduce a ton of heat unless it’s really pouring in the engine bay.
I’ve been able to hold my hood at any time of the year since installing the louver. I used to scold myself before which wasn’t very fun, and that was before the turbo added more heat.
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You sure the aftermarket radiator is up to the task?
No need for a “high flow pump” imo.
I cheapened out from a Mopar WP to a Gates (with a cast impeller) last summer. I’m not recommending anyone to get a Gates btw. My point is that my ECTs did not increase, and they remain better than many because the Mopar radiator soaks up the heat.
Those numbers didn’t increase with the turbo or when adding two coolers to the grill. This means the radiator had cooling ability left on the table in stock form, and the Jeep engineers seemed to know what they were doing.
Since when did we decide we needed a flowkooler or whatever WP? My Robert Shaw thermostat works well but the flowkooler water pump marketing gymnastics sour me on the company.
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Honestly, I think this might just be normal. I did a little digging through the service manual and it says that the needle on the coolant temp gauge, atleast for my 06, will not move into the red until the temperature exceeds 261 Fahrenheit. If you do find a fix though, if there even is an issue, please update us! It would be nice to atleast have slightly colder A/C even if the temps at idle are okay.
I'm not sure about the CSF radiator. It looks visually identical to the MOPAR one but I don't know about the internals. I was looking around for a MOPAR radiator but couldn't really find one, I can't imagine it would really cool much better than the CSF? Anyways, I did a lot of flushes and refilled with Zerex G05 and I can't tell any difference in it's running. I'm also not in AZ at the moment so the true test would be when I go back. I think it literally made no difference for temps though. I did however, get a lot of sand like crap out of the system.
Visually looking the part doesn't mean it's built to or near Mopar specification.
I've seen guys in the hotter parts report that they are ok using aftermarket options, and I've seen distraught folks not fix their issues using anything short of the Mopar radiator.
The Mopar unit has a long track record for being excellent for cooling and reliability. The second we hear an alternative works well, there is a report about it not working well for someone who need excellent performance. That means we are still looking for a reliable replacement for the Mopar unit.
I got a spare Mopar unit in December. They are still available to purchase online, but the price is going up.
It sounds like the recent flush didn't do a whole lot, but it's still nice to get new fluid in there. My cooling system was heavily neglected by the PO, so I deal with legit nonsense where my block sheds material that makes its way to the radiator. It's pretty amazing how well the radiator works in the AZ summer heat with two coolers in the grill, a turbo, 35s, and random flakes that build up in the radiator. That's how good the Mopar engineering is for our cooling system.
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