Operation Phoenix

[Apparition]

We have one

Don't tell Mike.

 

[macleanflood]

Ok...any suggestions for tucking this exhaust up another inch...do they make a tighter exhaust rubber hanger? I can move the hanger up but I'd only get a half inch and the rubber would be tight into the frame.

-Mac

 

[JMT]

Ok...any suggestions for tucking this exhaust up another inch...do they make a tighter exhaust rubber hanger? I can move the hanger up but I'd only get a half inch and the rubber would be tight into the frame.

View attachment 637725

-Mac

Cut the rubber where the red line is (cut it in half). Take the rod welded to the exhaust. Cut the end off that’s going through the rubber hanger. Weld it on the end above where the blue arrow is pointing.

 

[macleanflood]

Yeah that's hard mounting the exhaust to the frame. Like to avoid that. I'll find a lower profile hanger or French a bushing into the frame.

-Mac

 

[lBasket]

Ok...any suggestions for tucking this exhaust up another inch...do they make a tighter exhaust rubber hanger? I can move the hanger up but I'd only get a half inch and the rubber would be tight into the frame.

View attachment 637725

-Mac

Maybe you could find something in this style where the rubber is part of the top hanger and it hooks into the exhausts hanger

 

[sab]

Move the frame pin up to the inside and flip the muffler pin 90°:

 

[macleanflood]

Move the frame pin up to the inside and flip the muffler pin 90°:
View attachment 637783

Is there enough room with the gas tank?

-Mac

 

[sab]

Is there enough room with the gas tank?

-Mac

You tell me. Isn't that one of the front skid-mount studs shown in the picture to the left of the body mount? If so, I don't think the tank is far enough forward to interfere.

Nevermind - I was picturing it mirror-image in my head. Front is back and left is right. Sheesh!

 

[sab]

You can also move the mount forward a bit, too, I suppose, if you need a bit more clearance from the gas tank. I don't know where the control arm mounts are, though. My LJ didn't have stock mounts on it when I bought it (it had a Rubicon Express long-arm kit on it), and it now has Savvy mid-arm mounts on it. Plus, it's an LJ, so I'm just spit-balling here.

 

[sab]

Is there room to move it outside the frame?

 

[macleanflood]

Almost wondering about drilling a hole, welding in some pipe, insert a rubber bushing...then push the hanger on the exhaust through the frame.

I think for now I'm going to tie it up out of the way and continue. I'll sort it out once the gas tank is reinstalled.

-Mac

 

[macleanflood]

Gonna order one of these...since it'll take a few days to arrive...as an option to French into the frame.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09JZTK819?tag=wranglerorg-20

I'd grind the mushroom off the hanger welded to the exhaust and tap it 1/2-13, add a nylock...need to research melting temperature.

Insert hanger through frame and bingo.

Not doing anything until the gas tank is reinstalled...need to see if I have clearance.

-Mac

P.S. Going with this Peterbilt hi temp exhaust bushing. I'll source my own DOM tube.

https://www.bigrigchromeshop.com/peterbilt-exhaust-bushing-high-temp.html

 

[srimes]

Gonna order one of these...since it'll take a few days to arrive...as an option to French into the frame.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09JZTK819?tag=wranglerorg-20

I'd grind the mushroom off the hanger welded to the exhaust and tap it 1/2-13, add a nylock...need to research melting temperature.

Insert hanger through frame and bingo.

Not doing anything until the gas tank is reinstalled...need to see if I have clearance.

-Mac

That won't offer nearly as much movement as the current setup. Sab's suggestion above is best.

 

[sab]

That won't offer nearly as much movement as the current setup.

I agree. Mount compliance is more important in exhaust mounting than most other component-mounting points on a vehicle because exhaust is one of the largest, most rigid components that connect between body and chassis and because the high temperatures in the exhaust system are detrimental to load resistance. You could actually see cracks appear in welds at the engine end of the exhaust due to low-compliance mounting at the tail end of the system. There is a very good reason the OEMs use the same rubber mounts on all vehicles - they are designed for high compliance, and they prevent cracks. Whatever you end up doing, keep high compliance of your mounting system as the primary objective.

 

[Woodrow]

Gonna order one of these...since it'll take a few days to arrive...as an option to French into the frame.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09JZTK819?tag=wranglerorg-20

I'd grind the mushroom off the hanger welded to the exhaust and tap it 1/2-13, add a nylock...need to research melting temperature.

Insert hanger through frame and bingo.

Not doing anything until the gas tank is reinstalled...need to see if I have clearance.

-Mac

P.S. Going with this Peterbilt hi temp exhaust bushing. I'll source my own DOM tube.

https://www.bigrigchromeshop.com/peterbilt-exhaust-bushing-high-temp.html

Following. I've talked to Blaine a little about the difficulty in getting the exhaust out the back with outboarded shocks. Even worse if you stretch at all.

 

[Apparition]

Following. I've talked to Blaine a little about the difficulty in getting the exhaust out the back with outboarded shocks. Even worse if you stretch at all.

Run a stack up through the tub.

 

[JMT]

Yeah, what Sab said. That’s easy. Can do it in 10 minutes! Cost: FREE

 

[Rickyd]

Run a stack up through the tub.

 

[macleanflood]

Been dabbling away at stuff off and on all week. Wife's a teacher and goes back to school in a couple of weeks and we're trying to finish getting the siding up on the shop, get everything caulked and painted and ready for rain.

So in between having to be at work all day, and getting 4-6 hours in on the shop...well, it's a few hours here and there.

Pretty happy with the spring perch location. Interestingly enough it didn't change my ride height...but it did take care of the 1/4" height imbalance between the left and right side.

Tried and failed to beat the driver's upper control arm bracket into place. Not only has it collapsed but it's preventing access to the nut inside. No flag nut. I could cut the head but that would not gain me anything as the bolt wouldn't come out the other side...not lined up with the frame hole. So I decided to order a pair of upper control arm brackets from Barnes. And since I was paying for shipping I ordered their body lift frame brackets... since I'm in here I might as well cut the tub mounts and remove my BMB spacers and suck those up tight.

Despite the control arm not being quite right I think the passenger is good enough to locate the Poly mount...so making mock up rods and locating my tower position will proceed...I'll just copy to the driver's side.

Also realized if I cut the rear frame and suck up the bumper I pull up my exhaust hanger...a little extreme but it might be enough to fix my exhaust problem.

Was contemplating doing the rear frame raise at the shock towers...but not sure if I'm brave enough to break from the established methods.

-Mac

 

[Rubeyu]

While your having all that fun sorting out the rear it might be a good time to 4 link it.