That depends. I have a drawer full of shock tools and nitrogen in the shop. It’s way easier to just discharge and recharge than it is to build setup struts.
Operation Phoenix
- Thread starter macleanflood
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That depends. I have a drawer full of shock tools and nitrogen in the shop. It’s way easier to just discharge and recharge than it is to build setup struts.
I tuned and maintained shocks during my racing career, so I have a drawer full of tools. I have the proper hose end for both needle and Shrader charging. Most of the Foxes use a Shrader valve. My nitrogen bottle has a tire chuck on the end, and I use this gage/fitting to recharge my Fox DSCs:
https://www.polyperformance.com/fox-802-02-002-a-fox-0-600psi-schrader-style-nitrogen-filler-gauge
I’m sure there are Chinese versions of that, or you could find a fitting to go on a Shrader valve…
Ok so I discharge...to recharge I need the Poly Performance nitrogen valve...that go on a standard bottle like I use for mixed gas for my welder?
I need to determine if my shocks have a Schrader valve. If they don't what would you recommend for a conversion?
How many PSI? I probably can measure that with the gauge before discharge I suppose.
Good info. More money to spend.
I doubt I'd find anyone in the Eugene Springfield area to do the work. Probably have to drive to Portland.
I can't get the powder coating place to return my calls in Springfield, either. Just want to know how much to powder coat my intake before I try it myself in a rescued propane RV oven. =)
-Mac
I need to determine if my shocks have a Schrader valve. If they don't what would you recommend for a conversion?
How many PSI? I probably can measure that with the gauge before discharge I suppose.
Good info. More money to spend.
I doubt I'd find anyone in the Eugene Springfield area to do the work. Probably have to drive to Portland.
I can't get the powder coating place to return my calls in Springfield, either. Just want to know how much to powder coat my intake before I try it myself in a rescued propane RV oven. =)
-Mac
Gotcha. Don't need to discharge nitrogen or drain the oil.
So I should be able to mock up and tack with the setup rods, then install the actual shocks and use floor jacks to articulate the axles and look for and address clearance issues.
When I watched @hosejockey61 's video he left the Poly Performance mounts about a half inch below the frame...most the outboards I've seen have them cut flush and clearanced to almost a knife edge.
-Mac
I thought the install height of the shock towers was primarily a function of the shock being at the middle of usable up and down travel at ride height. Whether the towers protrude below the frame would be irrelevant as long as there are no clearance issues. Also, I'd want at least enough below the frame rail to be a good surface for welding, no?
This is my first jeep build, but I’ve built many motorcycles and snowmobiles. I like to use the discharged shocks because that’s the best way I’ve found to ensure there are no clearance issues. Unless the setup sticks exactly mimic the shocks in all dimensions, you really don’t know if something will hit the shock body or rod upon final assembly and cycling.
So back to discharging the nitrogen...
-Mac
-Mac
Exactly, no need to discharge/recharge. That was the overcomplicating bit. The reason you want to fill your tub with all the gear you’ll have on trail is to get your ride height so you can set the towers at the proper location in the frame so you get the 50/50 shock travel bias you are going to all this trouble to get. When @hosejockey61 cut the bottom of the towers off it was simply because that excess is not needed. Like @Woodrow said, a 1/2” or so is left for the weld. A little bit hanging down shouldn’t be an issue.
I think @sab 's point is good, but when I do this (hopefully this winter) I plan to try it first with PVC mockups of similar diameter. If that doesn't work, maybe I'll hit you up for your nitrogen set-up
Building the setup pieces is easy. Then you don't have to have the RR hanging there getting in the way or all scratched up. Also, there isn't the cost of having all the parts need to refill. That isn't cheap.
I think @sab 's point is good, but when I do this (hopefully this winter) I plan to try it first with PVC mockups of similar diameter. If that doesn't work, maybe I'll hit you up for your nitrogen set-up
I was thinking something similar. If I had a 3D printer I would be doing just that.
But with my luck I want run these through every possible position checking everything.
-Mac
You have to leave some meat to weld the mount to the frame.
I use the setup sticks getting them centered exactly. The shock body will be centered exactly when you install them to check clearances.
I think @sab 's point is good, but when I do this (hopefully this winter) I plan to try it first with PVC mockups of similar diameter. If that doesn't work, maybe I'll hit you up for your nitrogen set-up
It is a good point and there is a case in the BFH videos where I think it comes up. However, I think this can be mitigated other ways as you watch under articulation. Everything will be close, but you push the shock tower all the way to the backside of the frame. There can be a little variance with the tilt of the shock tower to get things just right.
I think @sab 's point is good, but when I do this (hopefully this winter) I plan to try it first with PVC mockups of similar diameter. If that doesn't work, maybe I'll hit you up for your nitrogen set-up
It doesn't matter if it's the same diameter. Just center it in the tower and the shock body will be centered too. THEN install the shocks and check clearances. The front to back should be good if it's centered at ride height. The main clearance issue I faced was the shock body into the tower when one side was full droop with the other side stuffed. The shock body gets really close to the bottom edge of the tower. I had to clearance mine out just a bit to make it work.
No. It took me two months to get the last Jeep out of my garage!
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