OBD-II throwing EVAP and HTR

[wayleigh]

Just picked up "Mabel" from the garage after having some basic repairs done that I didn't have time to attend-to myself.

Upon starting it at the repair shop, the check engine light was on, but figured it would go off soon. It didn't. And it was not on when I brought it in.

With my crappy OBD-II reader, it is able to tell me the CE light was refering EVAp and HTR, which sounds like there is something wrong with the air/fuel system.

Maybe it is as simple as someone knocked a hose loose or something, but I was planning on driving it 300 miles tomorrow, which makes me feel I shouldn't.

Any ideas as to the possible cause? Just spent a bunch getting shocks, cpntrol arms, hood latches, third brake light, additional lights for use with high beams, getting a new fuel tank sheild on, and changing the wheels (thanks Cliffish!) and getting new tires (General Grabbers). (Tire shop put the white lettering on the inside, dammit.)

And now this!

 

[Chris]

Just picked up "Mabel" from the garage after having some basic repairs done that I didn't have time to attend-to myself.

Upon starting it at the repair shop, the check engine light was on, but figured it would go off soon. It didn't. And it was not on when I brought it in.

With my crappy OBD-II reader, it is able to tell me the CE light was refering EVAp and HTR, which sounds like there is something wrong with the air/fuel system.

Maybe it is as simple as someone knocked a hose loose or something, but I was planning on driving it 300 miles tomorrow, which makes me feel I shouldn't.

Any ideas as to the possible cause? Just spent a bunch getting shocks, cpntrol arms, hood latches, third brake light, additional lights for use with high beams, getting a new fuel tank sheild on, and changing the wheels (thanks Cliffish!) and getting new tires (General Grabbers). (Tire shop put the white lettering on the inside, dammit.)

And now this!

The EVAP code usually points to issues with the fuel vapor emissions system. Often times it ends up being a loose hose or a disconnected vent line, especially if the shop was working around that area during your repairs. A lot of those EVAP hoses are old and brittle and break very easily given their age. It could also involve the fuel cap not sealing properly, so double-check that it’s on tight and that the seal is good.

As for HTR (Heater), it could indicate a problem with the heater control or the HVAC system, which could be tied to an airflow issue or temperature control.

If you can, take it back to the shop and explain the situation; they should be willing to check it out again since it was working fine before the repairs. Running the codes with a better reader might also give more insight into what's going on.

I'd take it back to the shop. If they were working on it and these codes weren't present before, my bet is that they knocked a line loose (or broke a line given how brittle they can be) and don't realize it. They can always perform a smoke test on the EVAP system and see where smoke is coming out of the system.

 

[DirtDawg]

Agreed with Chris on a return appointment to have that shop diagnose and (hopefully) correct code issues. Likewise, I'd have that tire shop dismount/remount and rebalance those new tires at their expense. I dislike raised white letters but actually hate them when mounted facing inside. A subjective thing, admittedly...

 

[dbbd1]

Which “basic” repairs were made? That might help us out.

Also, I think that HTR refers to O2 sensor heater circuits.

There is TSB for yours, as it’s an 06.

 

[wayleigh]

OK, sorry for being absent after asking for advice, but this last week has been insane for reasons nothing to do with the TJ. So, aside from the

So, after new shocks, front control arms, hood latches, a new third brake light (that blew itself out after a week; never buy a Rampage light), additional lights for use with high beams (mounted in the drilled grille holes, so as to use them), getting a new fuel tank shield on, putting Cliff's spare wheels on, and getting new General Grabbers (which I made the tire shop remove, reverse and rebalance on their dime to get the white lettering on the outside), I thought I might be done for the nonce. But this is the learning period.

When bringing it to the shop for a smoke test, it wouldn't start. Like, not even a click from the starter. No help with a boost from a running truck (and also reminding me that the Tacoma hybrid has the battery underneath the rear seat). Finally, after rowing through the gears and back to Park, it started, which is a sure indicator that the shift linkage is not quite set in the right position. This also jibes with the fact that the transmission takes a little finessing to get it into Drive (often you have to go into 2, start to accelerate and then pop it backup to D), so the transmission-ignition circuit is not connecting consistently. The rear differential breather hose had come loose, but that didn't seem related to the CE light and the EVAP code.

So, after a smoke test that did not reveal any obvious leaks, my guy is going to drop the tank to see if there is something there. And then correcting a short in one of the brake lights, and realizing the Rampage light has blown out, so now just fabricating a harness for the top brace and running a wire to make one up there.

EVAP code and HTR code remain to be diagnosed, but I am not sure what to make of the TSB as to the HTR code. It seems like a new PCM might fix the issue — and not sure if thew dealer ever reflashed or rewired whatever needed doing — but while I love that WranglerFix is there, I was hoping not to have to spend that money now!

 

[DirtDawg]

Kudos on getting your tires remounted to preferences...

Whether or not related to the mentioned no-crank, no-start issues, I'd suggest familiarizing yourself with the "chopstick fix", which was a problem on my own shifter assembly. I didn't have chopsticks, so used my digi calipers to select a plastic garment hanger of suitable diameter, cut a few of those to specified length and then shrink sleeved over those to achieve the desired diameter. Its worth popping off your shifter knob to see if the actuator rod is broken as shown in the linked topic.

 

[wayleigh]

This chopstick fix is absolutely insane. If this is indeed what is happening, I will likely try to get a 6.5mm diameter steel rod and wrap some electrical tape around it at certain intervals. Forwarded that thread to my shop, since it's with them at the moment. Will report back and then start taking some updated pics for the record.

 

[wayleigh]

OK, so need to make sure I have that chopstick but the rest has been resolved (except for the intermittent HVAC cluster backlight. All right, need to post some pics on the original thread, since I took some to prep for a vinyl stripe down the sides.