Not a synthetic snatch block
- Thread starter LONGJP2
- Start date
You will probably point out why I am wrong but I will say the tightness of the bend and it going full 180?
WestCoastDan
TJ Addict
I suspect that if you could examine that whole set up, you'd find they have a lot more load on it than most will ever encounter and there is a defect on the inside of the eye that would cause similar if not the same damage if it were in the opening of a hawse fairlead.
The function of that hitch mounted eye is no different than any of the ring style snatch blocks.
I'm guessing that the bend radius is a bit less than a snatch block/recovery ring. Designed to hold a soft shackle, no be a snatch block.
Have you ever used a common steel anchor shackle as a snatch block with the pin as the pulley? I have several times in a pinch and a 7/8" diameter pin is nowhere near close to the correct bend radius, nor is the rounded opening of most fairleads. If you didn't know I used the rope that way, there is nothing else to tell you since the damage was imperceptible. Not a super high load situation, just a rig laying on its side and no good anchor point anywhere but way up above it.
I haven't, but glad to hear you have with success.
Maybe there's an edge by the center flat? Doesn't look bad in the picture.
Look at the video on a large screen. There is something that looks sharper than a nice transition.
It occurs to me that I wasn't as clear as I should have been. While I have used a Shackle incorrectly to reverse direction on a pull, that example was to show that the amount of damage I did to the line was far less than expected which was that I'd have to repair it. Nor is it something that I suggest others do.
I'm seeing that the transition from radius to the bore isn't smooth. There appears to be a slight edge, which would suggest a matching transition with a slight edge on the other side.
ya, it does appear that it could have a transition from the flat interior to the radiused edge. the fact it goes flat at all doesn't seem correct.
i might think friction could introduce a heat stress [even though the polymer line is very slick] because of being combined with the acute radius... at this point any micro abrasions would aid to the ruin of it.
not sure this is something i'd have ever thought to try since none of it seems correct.
Why doesn't a hawse aluminum fairlead generally not do the same thing then?
The heat buildup from friction has never really made sense to me because the pull speeds are generally slow with short durations and the bearing surfaces being used are large heat sinks.
the cheap F'rs do/can..........because of the shitty finish. previous conversations made me change out my amazon cheapo Chinese crap because of this very thing and it not having a perfectly smooth transition into the drum.
the test just surprizes me because it's a plethora of don't do's. incorporating what we know we shouldn't do to that rope......... resulting in it's ruin.
Except I have done the same thing only worse for the wear surface and did no damage albeit under less stressful conditions. None of which explains why the Warn hawse aluminum fairleads with their very large radii burn the rope in the corners and get a very large build-up of melted material. Every one that I've seen that has actually been used has that problem.
That begs the question of whether or not there is an optimum diameter. Too small tears up the line, too large melts it. Something in between doesn't.