Nikki's yellow throwback Jeep

Reviving an old thread (amazing build by the way). Was this plug and play? Who makes it and are you still liking it?
Hey thanks, yeah it is plug and play. I don’t know who makes it, it’s sold under many different brand names on a lot of different sites. When I ordered it I got it from Walmart online for $20 I think but I can’t find it anymore.
I like it well enough, it matches the look of the Savvy LED taillights.
 
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Nick, you better start daily updating this "old thread" he revived. 🤣 Or is that what happens when Blaine gets his hands on a rig and there is nothing left to do, your build thread gets sent out to pasture?
I was thinking that too.

"nick, are you still here?!" 😂
You can't add much to perfection.
Ha ha ha I gave a little tilt of the head when I read that too. There’s still some changes ahead. I definitely want to armor the corners and the windshield frame. I need to figure out a solution to long distance lighting for desert night runs that appeals to my taste, PSC hydro assist is for sure coming up, need to make the jeep capable of towing a light weight overland trailer 😉, and some other minor creature comfort ideas I have brewing.
Mid arm is always in the back of my mind but like Blaine said I’m not sure I’ve gotten to the point where it wouldn’t just be an “I want not need this” purchase.
 
Ha ha ha I gave a little tilt of the head when I read that too. There’s still some changes ahead. I definitely want to armor the corners and the windshield frame. I need to figure out a solution to long distance lighting for desert night runs that appeals to my taste, PSC hydro assist is for sure coming up, need to make the jeep capable of towing a light weight overland trailer 😉, and some other minor creature comfort ideas I have brewing.
Mid arm is always in the back of my mind but like Blaine said I’m not sure I’ve gotten to the point where it wouldn’t just be an “I want not need this” purchase.

To hell with “needing it” you WANT IT.
 
Mannn, tell me about it. Ive been wanting that midarm ever since I got my jeep😂
What's the matter with your short arms?

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What's the matter with your short arms?

View attachment 272020
Nothing lol. I have a plan for what my rig can behave and drive like on street and trail. Id pretty much like my jeep to be like @Midnight LJR but I wont have the wheelbase obviously. Its everything added together that makes it so nice. I drove it that one night in moab and have been drooling ever since😂
 
OK boys and girls sorry no pictures for this post. But hopefully useful. I wanted to have a resolution to the issue before posting this series of events.

After the install of the 241 I had the slightest rumble in the steering wheel between 28-38 mph. Not a vibration, an audible rumble that was felt in the steering wheel and shifter, and mind you it was slight, but noticeable. At first Blaine thought it was the tires. I have some minor cupping on the front tires because well... MTRs. So first we had to eliminate that possibility. I was skeptical it was tires because I didn't have any rumble before the 241 and new Tom Wood's shafts but there is some noticeable cupping and I have the utmost trust in Blaine so the first step was a rotation and balance to try and eliminate that possibility. Easiest first. After the rotation and balance it was a little better but still there. Then I went for an hour long drive on the freeway and the problem progressed to a significant rumble that shook the seats and mirrors between 28-38 and then 55-70. So next I removed the front drive shaft and the rumble was still there. Next, after reinstalling the front drive shaft, I went to remove the rear drive shaft and I noticed I had developed quite the leak at the rear flange nut. Noted. I removed the rear drive shaft and drove in 4 high. No rumble. It drove smooth as silk. Ok, so I installed my other(spare) rear drive shaft. Same rumble. Ok not the drive shaft. I pulled the rear drive shaft again and at Blaine's recommendation I was going to seal the leak at the rear flange nut with RTV. The red locktight on the rear output shaft had not been disturbed and was on the tip of the shaft AND the top of the rear flange nut. So I got my 1 1/8 socket and breaker bar and went to loosen the nut. The nut was on just barely past finger tight, I almost launched the breaker bar thinking it was going to be torqued! Ok, that's weird. I had been driving around with a more or less loose rear flange nut. I removed the nut, put high temp RTV on the bottom and torqued it down and reinstalled the rear drive shaft. After a test drive the rumble was still there, and the highway speed rumble had changed to a vibration. To confirm my findings I pulled the rear drive shaft again and test drove in 4 high. No rumble, no vibration. After consult with Blaine, next step was to test a different transfer case.

Quick backstory if you're so inclined to strap in. After a few trips to the rocks with my newly modified rig, I quickly realized I personally wanted a better crawl ratio. Blaine and I discussed the different ways to achieve this and with the size and prices being what they were for used 241's, an Atlas was the best option. I wanted a 241 because, well, I am me and I don't like to disturb the factory look of the interior too much and I like the stock shift lever. But, after talking more with Blaine and @Alex01 I had mentally convinced myself the performance of the Atlas will distract from my non-stock shifters lol. Blaine understands there are many different types of jeep owners and I personally think he likes a challenge, and he found me a 241 at a more than reasonable price. But there were stipulations to him installing a used 241 into my jeep. He needed to have the ability to replace it. That means he needed to have another on hand in case the one being installed in my rig shits the bed. This is not only a sound business practice, but one that I highly respect because it means he won't do something to someones rig that he can't fix or replace if something goes wrong.

So getting back to the original issue the next step was to test another KNOWN SMOOTH transfer case. I drove the rig to Blaine's and we jacked up the jeep and with weight off wheels attempted to recreate the issue. Could not duplicate with weight off wheels. The rear harmonic balancer and flange were true, no wobble. The tires were definitely not balanced but that was a side issue. Blaine and his helper got to work and I did what I could to help without disrupting their system. In less than 2 hours, a different, known good 241 case was in and the rig was test drove with no vibes, no rumble, no issue whatsoever. Blaine, being the guy he is said "well its fixed, we'll look into the other case". That's the kind of guy he is. I stuck around to discuss the possibilities, and to observe the case being opened up. To the untrained eye the case appeared in perfect shape. I helped clean up and drove my jeep home with the good case, very thankful. Later, @mrblaine emailed me that there was wear on the tone ring, about as deep as a business card, the powdered metal from the tone ring had gathered in one of the bearings and caused it to have a clunk. Blaine was under the impression this case had been "gone through" by the seller and was ready for install. The loose flange nut allowed the tone ring to be gouged by the bearing surface but still keep the pin in, over the little time I had the case installed, the wearing of the tone ring, and the debris being collected in the bearing led to the rumbles I was feeling. I am sure he can explain it better than I can. Hopefully this is helpful. I have read a few threads of people with 241 issues.
 
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There are a few lessons there. Keep your tires rotated. High and low alternating tread blocks are not ever a good thing.
Don't buy used parts and expect them to be new parts. That is why I wouldn't install the 241 until we had a spare. He doesn't need the rig down while I try to figure out what is wrong with something that is acting up. Fortunately this time, we think we found the problem and it is easily resolved and it is a bit bizarre since there is almost no discernible wear on anything else in the case.

I was only under the impression it had been gone through due to that being the current policy of the original seller. My only regret is circumstances allowed me to be the middle man and that put the responsibility of a viable part all on me. Had Nick had the funds when the case came up for sale and he made the deal with the seller, that would have put it all on him. Sucks but that is how it works.

I'm just happy I stuck to my original assessment of not installing something there was not a spare for.
 
OK boys and girls sorry no pictures for this post. But hopefully useful. I wanted to have a resolution to the issue before posting this series of events.

After the install of the 241 I had the slightest rumble in the steering wheel between 28-38 mph. Not a vibration, an audible rumble that was felt in the steering wheel and shifter, and mind you it was slight, but noticeable. At first Blaine thought it was the tires. I have some minor cupping on the front tires because well... MTRs. So first we had to eliminate that possibility. I was skeptical it was tires because I didn't have any rumble before the 241 and new Tom Wood's shafts but there is some noticeable cupping and I have the utmost trust in Blaine so the first step was a rotation and balance to try and eliminate that possibility. Easiest first. After the rotation and balance it was a little better but still there. Then I went for an hour long drive on the freeway and the problem progressed to a significant rumble that shook the seats and mirrors between 28-38 and then 55-70. So next I removed the front drive shaft and the rumble was still there. Next, after reinstalling the front drive shaft, I went to remove the rear drive shaft and I noticed I had developed quite the leak at the rear flange nut. Noted. I removed the rear drive shaft and drove in 4 high. No rumble. It drove smooth as silk. Ok, so I installed my other(spare) rear drive shaft. Same rumble. Ok not the drive shaft. I pulled the rear drive shaft again and at Blaine's recommendation I was going to seal the leak at the rear flange nut with RTV. The red locktight on the rear output shaft had not been disturbed and was on the tip of the shaft AND the top of the rear flange nut. So I got my 1 1/8 socket and breaker bar and went to loosen the nut. The nut was on just barely past finger tight, I almost launched the breaker bar thinking it was going to be torqued! Ok, that's weird. I had been driving around with a more or less loose rear flange nut. I removed the nut, put high temp RTV on the bottom and torqued it down and reinstalled the rear drive shaft. After a test drive the rumble was still there, and the highway speed rumble had changed to a vibration. To confirm my findings I pulled the rear drive shaft again and test drove in 4 high. No rumble, no vibration. After consult with Blaine, next step was to test a different transfer case.

Quick backstory if you're so inclined to strap in. After a few trips to the rocks with my newly modified rig, I quickly realized I personally wanted a better crawl ratio. Blaine and I discussed the different ways to achieve this and with the size and prices being what they were for used 241's, an Atlas was the best option. I wanted a 241 because, well, I am me and I don't like to disturb the factory look of the interior too much and I like the stock shift lever. But, after talking more with Blaine and @Alex01 I had mentally convinced myself the performance of the Atlas will distract from my non-stock shifters lol. Blaine understands there are many different types of jeep owners and I personally think he likes a challenge, and he found me a 241 at a more than reasonable price. But there were stipulations to him installing a used 241 into my jeep. He needed to have the ability to replace it. That means he needed to have another on hand in case the one being installed in my rig shits the bed. This is not only a sound business practice, but one that I highly respect because it means he won't do something to someones rig that he can't fix or replace if something goes wrong.

So getting back to the original issue the next step was to test another KNOWN SMOOTH transfer case. I drove the rig to Blaine's and we jacked up the jeep and with weight off wheels attempted to recreate the issue. Could not duplicate with weight off wheels. The rear harmonic balancer and flange were true, no wobble. The tires were definitely not balanced but that was a side issue. Blaine and his helper got to work and I did what I could to help without disrupting their system. In less than 2 hours, a different, known good 241 case was in and the rig was test drove with no vibes, no rumble, no issue whatsoever. Blaine, being the guy he is said "well its fixed, we'll look into the other case". That's the kind of guy he is. I stuck around to discuss the possibilities, and to observe the case being opened up. To the untrained eye the case appeared in perfect shape. I helped clean up and drove my jeep home with the good case, very thankful. Later, @mrblaine emailed me that there was wear on the tone ring, about as deep as a business card, the powdered metal from the tone ring had gathered in one of the bearings and caused it to have a clunk. Blaine was under the impression this case had been "gone through" by the seller and was ready for install. The loose flange nut allowed the tone ring to be gouged by the bearing surface but still keep the pin in, over the little time I had the case installed, the wearing of the tone ring, and the debris being collected in the bearing led to the rumbles I was feeling. I am sure he can explain it better than I can. Hopefully this is helpful. I have read a few threads of people with 241 issues.
Have you had a chance to use the 241 yet off road ?
 
There are a few lessons there. Keep your tires rotated. High and low alternating tread blocks are not ever a good thing.
Don't buy used parts and expect them to be new parts. That is why I wouldn't install the 241 until we had a spare. He doesn't need the rig down while I try to figure out what is wrong with something that is acting up. Fortunately this time, we think we found the problem and it is easily resolved and it is a bit bizarre since there is almost no discernible wear on anything else in the case.

I was only under the impression it had been gone through due to that being the current policy of the original seller. My only regret is circumstances allowed me to be the middle man and that put the responsibility of a viable part all on me. Had Nick had the funds when the case came up for sale and he made the deal with the seller, that would have put it all on him. Sucks but that is how it works.

I'm just happy I stuck to my original assessment of not installing something there was not a spare for.
Will you be able to repair that t-case to make it a viable spare?
 
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Have you had a chance to use the 241 yet off road ?
Not yet, might go out tonight though but not on anything where the snail pace of the 241 will be really required. I’m looking forward to putting it through its paces it’s just really hot at my local wheeling spots right now