New to me 2006 TJ

[Endurance Auto]

Hi everyone. New to the site and this will seem odd to all or rather heres another one.... I
About me quickly, I am a 40 year old auto shop owner in highschool I bought a basket of a 79' CJ5 from someone in over their head. In 6 months it was running and was my daily till winter of my senior year. I got a wild hair to do 1/2 ton spring over K5 axles. And foolishly ripped it apart. I then ran out of money and sold it and bought a Dodge Stealth. Circa 2002.
Fast forward to 2008 summer I ride my motorcycle to meet up with a group of post grad college students to go to an event. I had a spare helmet expecting to pickup a passenger I see an attractive blonde in an 05 TJ with 31's I say to myself. If thats a manual I'll hop in. Well we are married now own a succesful auto shop, rental business and have 2 kids that are 3 and 5.

Last month I scored a free LS3 because GM reman engines were backordered but GM performance engines were in stock and had no core customer opted for the latter. So a simple rebuild and I own a 6.2 aluminum LS.

This month a customer torched a 2006 TJ with a 2.5 to the point the block is warped they do not want ot repair it. So I bought it for what they asked for.

I want people to pick me apart on the build plan. and inject opinions. I am 20 years out of the offroad world. An employee has a Liberty on 1 tons. I can weld fabricate and build.

The Plan

LS3 to a 4L60 or 6L80, Atlas or Behemoth D300, SD axles and a 5" rear stretch 3" front. 37" tires Tube fenders, Cut rear tub 4link rear 3 Link front 5.38 Gears with Sterling E Locker.

Next post is my plan to accomplish this. With a few questions

 

[Chris]

Well you aren't wasting any time (maybe some money though ) with those plans!

Get ahold of @NovakConversions for your engine and transmission conversion needs

 

[Endurance Auto]

1. LS3 Novak or Advance Adapters Any pros or Cons? Both companies were around 20 years ago. AA was the one I saw in Petersons all the time.

2. 4L60 Vs 6L80? Does the 5" make a huge difference (I came from a CJ5 so wheelbase and shaft length was an issue)

***This is where it gets Hinky because I haven't stripped the vehicle yet - And I need advice as there at 2000 ways to skin a cat***

SD Axles with Barnes Trusses using there base 4 link rear and 3 link front subframe - Is this a street able design without a front track bar? Or should I run a track bar? Axles are 2015 Rear and 2012 Front. I may shave the pig I have a friend that owns a sweet machine shop and he owes me a few crazy favors.

Suspension springs is planned to be 5" Clayton or JKS springs and 1" body lift. I can do coil overs but for my usage I don't see the point.

3. To push the rear 5"
39" Arms, Upper Springs mounts, Frame Notch (Claytons) Rear Shock Relocation Claytons, rear Stretch Upper spring mounts. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel. Does this sound correct

4. For the Front - 3"

Barnes uses a true 3 link, So their truss, omit the Passenger UCA mount. Their subframe has the front mounts already installed I just need to determine length. I can install a track bar mount if needed. Use relocated Spring perches.

TNT steering box relocation Kit.

There are a lot of small things I need to do which for a mechanic are not a big deal, PSI harness, Autometer gauges, HP tuning the drive train. Radiator and Hoses. I can make Hydraulic lines, we have a customer Radiator shop we use. So the small stuff is not a big deal to me. We have a local shaft balancer so i may have them build some or order Tom Woods shafts.

I want a capable street able rig that I feel safe with my kids in. And I hate doing stuff twice.

 

[Endurance Auto]

Oh I forgot even though I have 5 lifts and an alignment rack I plan to do this at my house. As I have a policy NO TOYS at the shop except weekends. So for a point I going to show that it can be done on jack stands and floor jacks mostly.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

A three link front definitely requires a track bar.

I run the TNT steering box relo kit. It is a crazy amount of work for only an extra inch or two over what you can do with a stock box position, or just an easy relocation straight forward coupled with relocating the track bar. I would do it again as I needed those few extra inches, but as stated it was a bunch of work.

A suggestion: do not use custom made crimped hydraulic lines. Use what are called field serviceable fittings which you assemble by hand (with wrenches, of course). The big advantage is that if you have a failure on the trail they can be easily repaired. No so with crimped lines.

 

[Endurance Auto]

Good Point I just pulled cylinders off of a 450B dozer today and the hydraulic style are far easier to breakdown with 2 wrenches.

I am looking at options but with 37s I need to stretch where I can. I looked at the Astro Box swap but its still a lot of work to protect it. I am already planning the 3 link with Track bar. I couldn't wrap my head around a street able 3 link even though its claimed..

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Good Point I just pulled cylinders off of a 450B dozer today and the hydraulic style are far easier to breakdown with 2 wrenches.

I am looking at options but with 37s I need to stretch where I can. I looked at the Astro Box swap but its still a lot of work to protect it. I am already planning the 3 link with Track bar. I couldn't wrap my head around a street able 3 link even though its claimed..

If you are just planning on 37’s, you likely don’t need the extra clearance of the TNT swap. The few extra inches will make very, very little difference in performance. Therefore the only reason for it is for tire clearance at the rear of the fender, and 37’s should not have an issue there.

But, if you like fun, challenging (and frustrating) projects, that’s also not a bad reason to do it.

 

[OHFIVETJ]

Welcome to the group from the Island of Long, My name is Johnny & i'm a JEEPAHOLIC