Need some help with tire chains / cables

Rob5589

Certified video trained differential rebuilder
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Going to ID in a few weeks and figure it would be a good idea to have chains or cables. I have never used them, installed any, or have driven a vehicle with them. Can any of you fine forum members hook me up with some info on how/what/why? 2019 Ram 4x4, stock wheels/tires/suspension.

Thanks!
 
any tire shop can help. a tire shop in a resource area with loggers better than a tire shop in Maliboo but shop and talk.

I'd never do cables, I'd get real chains. The ones I used with 33x10.50s were actually for 235/85R16s. They were wonderful in mud or deep snow or ice.

The important thing is installing them correctly. Maybe try youtube.

Heres a video from a few years ago. This was "Fourth times a charm" the guy backed those supers onto the ferry landing 3 times before he found the right line.


This is textbook "how to drive" and "why do lockers before a winch".
 
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I was a Forester in MT for 30 years, always used chains in mountains in winter. Going is nice, stopping down hill even nicer. Seems hard to find real tires chains without gimick twist links or etc. But here goes.

Buy your chains and get them sized right before you go. On a new tire they should hook in 3rd link when as tight as you can get them. This way on worn down tire you will not be at more than the 4th link. You want chains with a simple open hook on inside and a cam over with a link to latch on outside.

Put the chains on before you are stuck! The reason you want them to hook in the 3rd or 4th link is so that there is enough length that with some effort, shoveling and sawing them back and forth is so you can hook end links when you do get stuck before putting them on.

To put them on, first make sure no twists where they have loop through themselves. You can lay them out and follow the side links to see this.

Now drap them over the top of the tire and tuck first cross link on the end with the hooks down between tire and ground in either front or rear, depending on which way you will drive over them. Be sure remainder is draped neatly over the tire.

Roll easy over them so maybe the first 2 cross links come out from under. Going too far and the links get too high in wheel well to get at.

Now here is the most important thing. We want to hook them in a manner to manage the extra links so they do not best up fenders or break lines.

On the inside, pull the hook and the end of the chain together, hook the END link, give the chain a little flip and then hook into the desired 3rd or 4th link. This way the excess links are trapped on hook and can cause you no grief.

On the outside, the latch side, stick latch in the desired 3rd or 4th link, THEN slip the end link on. Fold the latch around and when I say tight I mean you may need your Leatherman for leverage to do this. Slip the retaining link or bale into place.

Repeat on the other side.

You do not need rubber bungies. This are for novices who do not know how to put on chains.

This whole process should take maybe 10 minutes max. There were days I would chain up and de-chain multiple times a day. When hooked tight I never spun a chain off and I am sure I logged thousands of driving miles with chains.

By the way, put them on the rear tires. If they can move you the extra weight on the front will steer you.

If really bad, chain all 4.
 
X3 to chains over cables. Getting them tight is very important.

Years ago, one of my guys didn't, lost both chains on the rear and one wiped away the rear brake lines.

Practice before your need them. Stop, check and re-tighten.
 
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You do not need rubber bungies. This are for novices who do not know how .. .

The only purpose I could figure to have bungies was to put them on the outside of the wheel. That way, if you screw up and the chain falls off, it will get sucked to the outside of the vehicle rather than fall and wrap around the axle.
 
Going to ID in a few weeks and figure it would be a good idea to have chains or cables. I have never used them, installed any, or have driven a vehicle with them. Can any of you fine forum members hook me up with some info on how/what/why? 2019 Ram 4x4, stock wheels/tires/suspension.

Thanks!
First is it a half ton or HD 3/4 or 1 ton? It will make a difference on how heavy a chain you can run. Next what is your tire and wheel package? Half tons with 20" rims run a relatively low profile tire, again a HUGE difference on what type of chain you want to run. New vehicles have a tenancy to not like the old school ladder style chains, it can mess with the anti-lock. HD trucks are more forgiving than half ton trucks. Diamond style or constant contact chains are recommended by most manufactures for ABS and traction control.

https://lacledechain.com/product/alpine-sport-truck-suv-chains/
 
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I have good results with the Pewag brand of diamond style (constant contact) type. They use a solid wire (with a hook & catch) for the inside of the tire. And a chain to tighten the outside. I also taught my Mom how to install them, then there was no stopping her to get to her Karaoke bar hopping with her G/F's.
If there is going to be any kind of weight in the bed, I would install the chains in the back.
If the bed is empty, I would install the chains in the front (4x4) for the added traction, steering and braking ability.
Most tire chain companies recommend a speed of no more than 25 mph.
 
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I have good results with the Pewag brand of diamond style (constant contact) type. They use a solid wire (with a hook & catch) for the inside of the tire. And a chain to tighten the outside. I also taught my Mom how to install them, then there was no stopping her to get to her Karaoke bar hopping with her G/F's.
If there is going to be any kind of weight in the bed, I would install the chains in the back.
If the bed is empty, I would install the chains in the front (4x4) for the added traction, steering and braking ability.
Most tire chain companies recommend a speed of no more than 25 mph.
Always on the back, never just on the front for driving on the highway, for the same reason you don't put studs on just the front tires of any vehicle front wheel drive or not. In a braking event when the front has more traction than the rear the back of the vehicle will spin around throwing said vehicle into an uncontrollable spin.
 
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Hence the recommended speed of 25 mph.
I've never had tires with studs, chains were always best with me.
And in certain locations across the US, studs and cables are not acceptable during some R-1 and R-2 conditions.
YMMV

Also before I retired, I plowed snow with a Cat motor grader, 6 chains on 6 wheel drive.
Sometimes the local Highway Patrol (running studs) would get stuck in snow and ice, so we'd pull them out. Less paper work for them. But with studs on their tires they could respond to traffic problems really quick.
 
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Hence the recommended speed of 25 mph.
I've never had tires with studs, chains were always best with me.
And in certain locations across the US, studs and cables are not acceptable during some R-1 and R-2 conditions.
YMMV

Also before I retired, I plowed snow with a Cat motor grader, 6 chains on 6 wheel drive.
Sometimes the local Highway Patrol (running studs) would get stuck in snow and ice, so we'd pull them out. Less paper work for them. But with studs on their tires they could respond to traffic problems really quick.
The speeds recommended for tire chains is more to keep the chains from flailing apart and doing serious damage to a vehicle than they are for traction related concerns.

In either case, tires or chains, the safest place to put traction aids, if you can't put them on all 4, is always on the rear of the vehicle. The only time I have ever used chains solely on the front of a vehicle was for climbing a grade off road. Once it was time to go back down the hill they got moved to the rear. It's the same reason most states have laws requiring trucks to chain the rear most axle on any truck and trailer combination. (aka drag chains)

Studs have their place for sure I run them on all 4 corners because it's not uncommon to have long periods when the highways are ice covered here in Idaho.
 
I live & do plenty of wheelin in Idaho, near Coeur d'Alene. We have never used chains other than on a full time 4WD tractor that was in super deep mud all the time.

Use 4WD, slow down, get some descent all-terrain tires, you'll be fine.
 
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Chains only go on powered wheels, never on non-powered wheels. Chains on non-powered wheels can go into a skid, especially with ladder style chains.
 
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