Metalcloak T-Link Steering

[tworley]

Technical discussion. MCs new steering. My currie drag link and BMB tierod are not going anywhere.

https://metalcloak.com/blog/metalcloak-vs-currie

Introduction — a closer look from MetalCloak​

This article breaks down the differences between three steering setups commonly found on Jeep TJs and LJs: the stock Y-link steering, the Currie/RockJock Currectlync (often incorrectly called CorrectLink), and the MetalCloak Heavy Duty (HD) Steering System. It walks through how each design behaves as you lift your Jeep and cycle the suspension, why toe change matters, and how the T-link approach solves problems that become noticeable on the trail.

Why steering upgrades matter​

Steering isn't just about strength — it's about predictable handling, consistent toe, and minimizing unwanted feedback as the suspension moves. When you lift your Jeep and add larger tires, small design issues in a steering system can become amplified. That means wandering, inconsistent steering feel, and an uncomfortable driving experience both on- and off-road.

Understanding the two basic designs: Y-Link vs. T-Link​

There are two common approaches to link steering systems used on Jeep platforms:

• Y-Link (stock and many upgraded factory-style systems) — The tie rod is split and attaches left and right to the knuckles. One tie rod end moves up and down as the suspension cycles, which causes the tie rod to change angle and the wheels to move in and out (toe change).
• T-Link (MetalCloak HD) — Uses a single-piece true link (one continuous tie rod) across the axle, with the drag link attached separately. This design decouples the tie rod motion from the drag link, eliminating toe changes caused by suspension movement.

How the stock Y-link performs​

The stock configuration is a classic Y-link design. At stock ride height with small tires, the movement is minimal and not terribly noticeable. But once you lift the vehicle, fit larger wheels and tires, and start cycling the suspension, you see significant up-and-down movement at the tie rod end that changes toe. The result is steering that can feel vague, nervous, and inconsistent as the suspension articulates.

What Currie’s Currectlync gives you​

The Currie/RockJock Currectlync system is a notable upgrade over the tiny stock components. It uses larger-diameter components than OE and strengthens the overall assembly, but it remains a Y-link design. That means while you gain strength, you still have the same fundamental issue: the tie rod still moves up and down with suspension travel and still produces toe change and negative feedback to the steering.

Why we built the MetalCloak Heavy Duty Steering System​

We designed the MetalCloak HD steering system to address both strength and dynamic performance. Instead of a Y-link, our T-link system uses a true link tie rod — a single-piece tie rod that runs all the way across the axle — and the drag link is attached to it independently. The benefits are real and measurable when you cycle the suspension:

• Zero toe change through the suspension cycle — the knuckle ends do not move inboard/outboard as the suspension articulates.
• No negative input to the steering from suspension movement — your steering feel remains consistent and predictable.
• Anti-flop drag link ends — virtually eliminates drag link flop, a common issue on lifted Jeeps.

Key features of the MetalCloak HD steering system​

When you compare components, the MetalCloak HD system brings a full package focused on performance and durability:

• True T-link design with a true link tie rod — separates the tie rod from the drag link for zero negative feedback.
• Massive diameter tubing for ultimate strength and resistance to bending.
• One-ton, high-clearance tie rod ends — built to handle the load and obstacles you encounter off-road.
• Anti-flop drag link ends — reduce or eliminate drag link flop when you overshoot a bump or hit a rock.
• Double-adjustable — easy to set alignment (toe and drag link correction) so you can dial your steering precisely.
• Grease boots and zerk fittings — serviceable articulation points for long life.
• Gold zinc chromate finish — looks great and resists corrosion.

Real-world effect: what you'll feel on the trail​

Here’s the practical outcome you’ll notice when you move from a Y-link setup to a MetalCloak T-link:

• Smoother steering through articulation: No sudden toe changes as wheels move; steering tracks cleaner over rough terrain.
• Reduced steering wander: Less constant correction needed during off-camber travel or when one wheel cycles up or down.
• Stronger hardware: Larger tubing and one-ton ends reduce the risk of component deformation or breakage when you hit something hard.

Which steering system should you choose?​

When choosing an upgrade you have options:

1. Go slightly larger than factory — minimal improvement; still a Y-link.
2. Go with a reinforced Y-link like Currie’s Currectlync — stronger but still retains the Y-link behavior (toe change with suspension travel).
3. Choose a MetalCloak Heavy Duty T-link — the strongest, most stable option that eliminates toe change, minimizes flop, and gives you a dialed-in steering feel.

As I like to say: why use anything else? The T-link approach solves the problems you actually feel when you take your Jeep off-road.

"Why would you choose anything else than the MetalCloak heavy duty steering system?"

Compatibility and availability​

The MetalCloak Heavy Duty steering system is available now for TJ and LJ Wranglers and also fits XJ, ZJ, and MJ platforms. It’s a direct upgrade designed for lifted and trail-focused Jeeps, delivered with serviceability and trail durability in mind.

Conclusion​

Upgrading your steering system is about more than brute strength — it’s about maintaining consistent steering geometry through suspension travel. Stock Y-link systems are fine at OEM heights, and beefed-up Y-links like Currie’s offer added strength. But if you want true off-road performance with no toe change, reduced drag link flop, and components built to last, a T-link design like the MetalCloak HD steering system is the clear choice.

When you're ready to upgrade, choose a system that addresses both durability and dynamic behavior. It's your rig, only better.

Learn more about the Metalcloak Heavy Duty Steering System for the TJ here: https://metalcloak.com/7694-tj-lj-wrangler-metalcloak-heavy-duty-steering-system.html

 

[Tronner]

The video was misleading in regards to additional Toe in, In a standard Bump, there would be no toe in, if there were you would have bump steer, additionally it would only occur at full droop. So them lifting on the drag link as a way to show the negatives of Y link is misleading as it is not an accurate assessment of what would actually happen under the jeep on road where full droop would be improbable. To me it seems that they have created a steering that will give a user bump steer. It is no different than the rugged ridge or Steinjager steering.

 

[rasband]

I think the knuckles being tied together would cause worse dartiness than the toe angle changing a bit in the Y link. The toe angle offsets where the jeep is going to a degree, but the locked steering angle would direct both wheels one way.

 

[John Cooper]

I run Metalcloak control arms, why? Cause my wife and daughters ordered them for me for Christmas. I would have preferred Savvy, but not gonna complain.

If Metalcloak wouldn't try so hard to justify their products and go over the top on their marketing.

It would be better for them.

 

[reddvltj]

It's not on my Jeep but I have real world experience with this exact steering design change and I'm not impressed with the T-link design.

My 2006 Dodge 2500 was "upgraded" to the newer Ram (I think 2010+) design, (t-Link) when the entire front end was rebuilt. Since then I have had death wobble 3 times. Keep in mind the front end has all new OEM ball joints, control arm bushings and brand new OEM Track bar and no other suspension changes, the shocks are the only thing that was not changed because they don't appear to be inadequate. Alignment angles all specked out perfectly and yet certain bumps triggered death wobble. Currently I am running more toe in than what I feel should be necessary to keep death wobble from happening. Every once in a while when I hit a bump in the road there is a very vague feeling that it is trying to wobble.

I'm just about to the point of biting the bullet and buying OEM steering just to see if it solves the problem...

 

[CMBD]

I stopped watching at the point he said their system will have no bump steer.

 

[cmk1970]

I don't think it's a bad idea but if your product is good you don't have to show someone else's, and say's yours' is better than there's it is or it isn't.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Monday at 2:04 PM
I saw this on another forum. Better than Currie/RockJock? More MC BS claims? Talk amongst yourselves.

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/y-link-vs-t-link-steering-–-what’s-the-real-difference.4500937/

https://metalcloak.com/blog/metalcloak-vs-currie

 

[GoldenGorilla]

If Metalcloak wouldn't try so hard to justify their products and go over the top on their marketing.

It would be better for them.

I run their arms too. I picked them over RJ and Savvy because I think the dual durometer ends would have slightly better nvh characteristics for my use.

I chose them in spite of the marketing. It's such a turn off.

I've seen all these alternatives to the inverted Y with a full HD knuckle to knuckle tie rod on the TJ come and go in popularity in the 20+ years I've owned my TJ. They've all gone because the track bar to drag link geometry difference introduces bump steer and more often than not death wobble follows as things wear over time.

The JK was designed around the same setup as ORO's U-turn crossover setup, but key to it was the track bar location was built into the JK platform for it. And that seems to work well on the JK and frankly makes sense. U-turn was a hot upgrade for the TJ back in the day until people realized a few years later it just introduced other issues.

 

[Apparition]

Monday at 2:04 PM
I saw this on another forum. Better than Currie/RockJock? More MC BS claims? Talk amongst yourselves.

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/y-link-vs-t-link-steering-–-what’s-the-real-difference.4500937/

https://metalcloak.com/blog/metalcloak-vs-currie

#ENDOFTHREAD

 

[L J]

#ENDOFTHREAD

View attachment 637824

 

[JMT]

I’m worried about steering wandering off-road?

 

[rasband]

#ENDOFTHREAD

View attachment 637824

At least we know he's still kicking, he just won't do it here.

 

[JMT]

View attachment 637825

An anecdotal absolute.

 

[jjvw]

Can't do a tie rod flip with metalcloak steering.

They solved the inconsequential toe change, added a bit of bump steer, and took away a very meaningful clearance gain.

MC will sell a bunch of these because their customer base is gullible.

 

[jjvw]

Regarding the tie rod roll/flop, this is what they claim to have addressed by moving the drag link connection to a vertical position...

This roll is what creates a dead spot with inverse-T steering. However, Metalcloak does not show us any comparison with theirs.

MC will still roll, despite changing the drag link connection to a vertical orientation because they kicked the TREs forward at the steering knuckles creating a lever arm that still rolls up and down with steering input.

 

[psrivats]

MC doing MC things. Why do we give this company a platform here?

@tworley - A better discussion topic could have been "Pros and cons of various steering options" and perhaps we had a chance of having real experts that know to build good steering chime in and educate the rest of us.

 

[tworley]

MC doing MC things. Why do we give this company a platform here?

@tworley - A better discussion topic could have been "Pros and cons of various steering options" and perhaps we had a chance of having real experts that know to build good steering chime in and educate the rest of us.

Fair - and not too late! Though I am biased as I've been running a currie setup for probably close to 10 years.

Pros currie -
- Angled TREs to accommodate a 4" lift
- Able to run the driver side over the knuckle for clearance
- Able to easily be bent back into place with a press if bent (can attest to)
- Can opt for an upgraded tie rod from BMB
- Honestly can't think of any cons - maybe the minimum lift requirement to run one? RE: change in toe - insignificant. The only toe issue the currie would have is from an actual incorrect toe setting, or either from the tie rod being bent.


Pros metalcloak-
- Replaceable TREs on either end.

Cons metalcloak-
- biggest one I would see is the tie rod roll/deadspot. Maybe this new t-link is designed in such a way that it gets rid of "most" of that roll, but I find it hard to believe they got rid of it entirely.
- Can't flip for OTK steering
- looks like the drag link would require two jam nuts (if thats an issue?) One at the TRE end, one and the sleeve they include.

 

[Mike_H]

Why in the world are they marketing something old like it’s a brand new concept? It’s just dumb

 

[CMBD]

Why in the world are they marketing something old like it’s a brand new concept? It’s just dumb

Because there is a whole new crop of people that don't know any better.