Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Colorado Looking for reliable and reasonable Wrangler service near Denver

mike_b

Member
Original poster
Joined
Aug 31, 2021
Messages
30
Location
Golden
I have a 2006 TJ 4.0 with 220k miles, which runs fine. However, there is rattle, a whistle, and another noise that sounds a bit like valves need to be adjusted. Does anybody know of a reliable and reasonable Wrangler shop near Denver (preferably West of town?
 
Rattles and whistles can be a pain to find, but are often easy to fix once you locate them. Valve adjustment noises might be a more serious problem, since the hydraulic valves are self-adjusting by nature. At 220K miles you might need some internal engine work.

Perhaps some of the folks on the forum can help you pin the noises down.

I've used The Edge Automotive for re-gearing, at which they're great, but I don't know how they would do on other things.
The Edge Automotive
https://theedgeautomotive.com/
2331 W Hampden Ave, Unit 135
Sheridan, CO 80110 (driveway 1 block east of C&M Metal, at the giant power towers, go north)
303-789-3343
 
Last edited:
Sorry. I posted a reply a couple of days ago. Or so I thought ...

I don't have a video of the noises, but perhaps a description helps:

The most obvious is a high whistle that comes from the engine just above idle. changes tone as the engine revs up and disappears. Vacuum leak? Have trie dto locate it, but so far no luck.

The second noise comes from the chassis front left when I go over a bump or pothole. Sounds like something is loose. Sometimes there is a similar noise (less noticeable) from the right. I would describe that as a "clank". In general the car runs well, but it feels "loose". Not sure if that is a Wrangler thing. It just feels looser than my other car (01 S-10 truck).

Then there is a "ticking" sound when the engine is cold, which almost goes away after a few seconds. It's very regular, so it probably has to do with the engine. Not sure how to describe that other than "ticking".

And finally, occasionally, when I start the car, I don't have break assist for a few seconds. Mostly noticeable when I have the car parked on my (sloped) driveway and let it roll down immediately after starting the engine. I really have to hit the brakes hard to stop the car. After that it is fine. I have been blaming the vacuum leak (first point) for that, for lack of anything better.

@OldBuzzard: I looked up Edge Automotive, but they seem to be more of a mod shop. Do they have a regular repair shop?
 
The whistle — vacuum leak — brake problem seem to go together. Check the hose to your brake booster carefully. You might even need a new booster. Some other folks on here know more about that than I do.

If the chassis clunk sounds like something is loose, then something is loose. Check everything again, with a torque wrench. I recently found a tight-but-not-tight-enough control arm bolt at 40 ft lbs. I tightened it to the correct 50 ft lbs and the clunk disappeared.

I think you're right about Edge Automotive, more mod shop than full repair shop.
 
I have a good friend that runs his own general automotive shop and is very reasonable. Only down side is he is about 45 minutes east of Golden.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator