I've seen ARB's in situations that no axle should be in and still work. Experience is why I went ARB front and rear.Even with blown bonded seals my ARBs always locked. Now fixed.
I’ve seen elockers not work.
Pluses and minuses either way.
I've seen ARB's in situations that no axle should be in and still work. Experience is why I went ARB front and rear.Even with blown bonded seals my ARBs always locked. Now fixed.
I’ve seen elockers not work.
Pluses and minuses either way.
We CLE fans like to tease Cinci fans just to enjoy watching their reactions.
That was the trouble I had as well. Lots of old info.
My Eatons are a 4-pinion setup (they have been for a while) and engage as fast as I’ve ever needed them to. I’m not a RockGod, but I’ve been in the rocks enough to know I didn’t mess up in my decision to go with Eaton selectables. If you can afford it, buy once cry once.
Many older post spoke on how ARBs never broke on them for two decades, but a newer post tipped the scales for me when it said that a plastic piece broke inside causing an air leak. Any of these companies can have issues due to a bad batch here and there, but I decided to not chance it and eliminate the air since I didn’t need it. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy them if Eaton’s weren’t available. I consider them options 1a and 1b.
Haha my family is from Missouri so it's all about those chiefsid get disowned for rooting for the bengals lmfao.
This is the last big purchase I'm making.
My goal is to not regret spending the money by compromising and regretting it later on.
My 2 cents. Upgrade your axle shafts at the same time. Once on the trail and locked the unbelievable better traction puts so much more strain (it seems) on them stock axles. Both Jeeps i installed lockers with stock axles broke shafts shortly afterwards. Chromoly and lockers go together like ….
Excellent advice.
@Weasellee Did you break the front or rear shaft? I upgraded to US made Revolution and Gear axles in the rear during the regear, etc.
I have Yukon inners up front to go with the Yukon hub kit since R&G didn’t have inventory at the time (during peak covid).
They’ve held up to some spirited moments, so far, which is all I can ask for.
I thought about going that route, I really did. I just didn't want to spend the money on it, install it, and wish I went with the selectable lockers later on down the road. Then I'd end up spending the money on e lockers anyways.
Plus, this is the last big purchase I am going to make to get my jeep where I want it to be. I've got the lift, big tires and long arm kit. After I regear and get lockers, it'll be mostly cosmetic stuff like flat fenders, lights, and probably about 1,236 rubber ducks to put on my dash![]()
I have yet to break a stock 44 rear shaft (jinx). Multiple front 30 stock shafts and a stock 44 shaft. Usually brake when in the rocks with the Boggers. Boggers, rocks and cheap axle shafts don’t mix well.
I have only seen chromo shafts brake once and when it did it detonated and made a mess.
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Did not read things fully, however I seen the back and forth about lockers. I found whatever was cheapest on marketplace before I did my regear and ended up with an arb in the rear and e locker in the front. No complaints about either, and have 4.88's with my 35's (5 speed). Would now prefer the 5.13's but not disappointed in what I have.
Ox is always the right choice!![]()
Dana 30/44 are both fine for lockers. Just not a 35.
You must have got that from AI on a cell phone.
I'm getting my jeep regeared to 5.13s soon, and am thinking about getting lockers as well. The shop I'm taking it to says that putting lockers on the dana 30 isn't a good idea because the gears in it are weaker.
Is this accurate? Is having rear a rear locker good enough? If so, should I go air or electric? Also, are 5.13s the right move for a 4.0, 5sp, with 35s? Thanks
You might consider putting a high pinion 30 in place of the TJ Dana 30. The HP 30 is stronger and gets the driveshaft more ground clearance. Hopefully someone will be able to give more info about the HP swap.
It may require a drive shaft change depending on lift height and such. I had to shorten my DS at stock height.
Also, a UCF or Savvy engine skid will require a different bracing arm, as the DS is now much higher.
Is having rear a rear locker good enough? If so, should I go air or electric? Also, are 5.13s the right move for a 4.0, 5sp, with 35s? Thanks
