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Kicker Component Speaker Install Question

DB04RedJeep

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I've finally started the install of the KIcker Component speakers I bought this past winter from Crutchfield. I think I'm over thinking and complicating this install.

The crossovers wires are labeled for the tweeter, woofer and input. The first 2 make sense it's the input wires I'm struggling with (again overthinking).

On the attached picture I have connected the input wires for the crossover to the factory speaker wires. Is this correct?

If it is I will have to splice them together because somewhere along the line a previous owner cut the factory connections off. Thanks in advance!

IMG_E1549.JPG
 
Don't make this harder than it needs to be:
Amplifier -> Crossover Input
Crossover Tweeter -> Tweeter
Crossover Bass -> Woofer

Crossovers can go anywhere you want them, and typically just have screw terminals for the inputs (and outputs) so I'm not sure why you would need to splice wires unless the input wires on the crossover are hardwired to it. Just mount the crossover wherever the factory speaker wire remaining allows you to. If they are hardwired, then I'd suggest you crimp and heat shrink them rather than wirenut or any other sort of connection.

d-
 
Don't make this harder than it needs to be:
Amplifier -> Crossover Input
Crossover Tweeter -> Tweeter
Crossover Bass -> Woofer

Crossovers can go anywhere you want them, and typically just have screw terminals for the inputs (and outputs) so I'm not sure why you would need to splice wires unless the input wires on the crossover are hardwired to it. Just mount the crossover wherever the factory speaker wire remaining allows you to. If they are hardwired, then I'd suggest you crimp and heat shrink them rather than wirenut or any other sort of connection.

d-

Yes the input wires on the crossovers are hardwired. So the way they are setup in the picture is correct then?

I will crimp and heat shrink them together once I mount the crossovers under the dash.

Thanks for the help.
 
That is correct, yes. I would shorten the wire to the crossover as much as possible. The wires from the crossover to the speakers should both be the same length, but if you cut each one to the minimum required length that is fine too.

Good luck!
 
That is correct, yes. I would shorten the wire to the crossover as much as possible. The wires from the crossover to the speakers should both be the same length, but if you cut each one to the minimum required length that is fine too.

Good luck!

Question. Are you saying the wires from crossover to the speaker need to be the same, and stay the same if you cut, for performance? So the base and tweeter aren’t showing a difference from wire length?

Pretty technical, I would think slight, but this is great info I wouldn’t have thought of, and I’m looking at putting in components.
 
Question. Are you saying the wires from crossover to the speaker need to be the same, and stay the same if you cut, for performance? So the base and tweeter aren’t showing a difference from wire length?

Pretty technical, I would think slight, but this is great info I wouldn’t have thought of, and I’m looking at putting in components.

Yes, that is what I am saying. Technically you do this to avoid any time phase differences where the signal gets to 1 speaker before the other one. It would not impact individual speaker performance, but rather how the 2 components sound together. Some people argue that this also holds true for left/right and front/back as well, but those can be corrected/adjusted through time phasing in appropriate hardware if need be; the tweeter and mid bass cannot since they are hardwired.

Practically it doesn't matter since the difference in length will be negligible relative to the speed of signal transmission, but I try to be complete in my responses.

Doug
 
Sound signals are not going to be noticeable in a 6” vs 12” speaker wire to the human ear coming off a crossover to mids and highs.

While one can make the argument of time, its so fast in milliseconds, you wont ever notice it = not a real problem

If this were a REAL problem, every hard wired home theater in America (and car stereo) would be FUBAR because every speaker gets the signal over a different length wire. Dont run any mic checks on your next receiver install at home and test it out for yourself…..non issue

If tens of feet differences dont produce a big difference, its not gonna show in inches 🙌
 
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Sound signals are not going to be noticeable in a 6” vs 12” speaker wire to the human ear coming off a crossover to mids and highs.

While one can make the argument of time, its so fast in milliseconds, you wont ever notice it = not a real problem

If this were a REAL problem, every hard wired home theater in America (and car stereo) would be FUBAR because every speaker gets the signal over a different length wire. Dont run any mic checks on your next receiver install at home and test it out for yourself…..non issue

If tens of feet differences dont produce a big difference, its not gonna show in inches 🙌

Is there an echo in here? :)

Thank you for reinforcing the point. For bonus points you can calculate the distance at which it might be noticeable, but it is such a big number to get to a ms difference that I've never bothered
 
Is there an echo in here? :)
Nope, you said equal lengrhs are a necessity in crossovers, due to phasing, and I said they are not.
Yes, that is what I am saying. Technically you do this to avoid any time phase differences where the signal gets to 1 speaker before the other one. It would not impact individual speaker performance, but rather how the 2 components sound together.

Thats called a disagreement😁
Your post was quite contradictory to be fair
Because you contradicted it at the end
Practically it doesn't matter since the difference in length will be negligible relative to the speed of signal transmission, but I try to be complete in my responses.

Doug
Imagine this from a newbie reader perspetive
the information is all over the place
 
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Nope, you said equal lengrhs are a necessity in crossovers, due to phasing, and I said they are not.


Thats called a disagreement😁
Your post was quite contradictory to be fair
Because you contradicted it at the end

Imagine this from a newbie reader perspetive
the information is all over the place
That's not what I said, actually. I've posted it here:
"The wires from the crossover to the speakers should both be the same length, but if you cut each one to the minimum required length that is fine too."

Should (my term) <> necessity (your interpretation)

The information is entirely consistent; 'should' = theory, and 'fine too' = practical.

Here's the same statements in a different context: to avoid getting a speeding ticket you should drive the speed limit (since it is impossible to get a speeding ticket if you aren't speeding). But if f you go a few miles an hour over that is fine too (because practically the police have better things to do than issue a ticket to someone going a couple miles an hour over).

Doug
 
That is correct, yes. I would shorten the wire to the crossover as much as possible. The wires from the crossover to the speakers should both be the same length, but if you cut each one to the minimum required length that is fine too.

Good luck!
Got everything installed yesterday afternoon. The tweeters are not mounted yet, I want to move them around to see if I notice any difference.

I'm far from any sound expert after almost 40 years working in machine shops and testing large gearboxes, but I do notice a difference in the sound from these compared to just the regular speakers I took out. The sound seems to fill the interior completely, if that makes sense.

Clarity is good from both the radio and my wife streaming songs through the BT. It's more than loud enough for me :)

Thanks for the help on my overthinking. Once I figure out where I want the tweeters I'll start to play with the amp tuning, which will bring up a bunch more questions :D

IMG_1551.JPG
 
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When adding tweeters and crossovers, is there any benefit to disabling/cutting the tweeter portion of the original 2-way speaker?
 
Got everything installed yesterday afternoon. The tweeters are not mounted yet, I want to move them around to see if I notice any difference.

I'm far from any sound expert after almost 40 years working in machine shops and testing large gearboxes, but I do notice a difference in the sound from these compared to just the regular speakers I took out. The sound seems to fill the interior completely, if that makes sense.

Clarity is good from both the radio and my wife streaming songs through the BT. It's more than loud enough for me :)

Thanks for the help on my overthinking. Once I figure out where I want the tweeters I'll start to play with the amp tuning, which will bring up a bunch more questions :D

View attachment 531901

Let me know. Get a multimeter and we'll handle the amplifier :)

In the meantime, use double-sided tape to move the tweeters around, including how you point them. A pillar is the primary location, but pointed at you will be different than at the passenger...
 
When adding tweeters and crossovers, is there any benefit to disabling/cutting the tweeter portion of the original 2-way speaker?

Adding individual tweeters and crossovers is infinitely more expensive than buying a new set of component speakers. For some reason crossovers are very expensive...

Anyway, if you were to add your own tweeters and crossovers you need to buy crossovers with variable or multiple crossover points and roll-off rates since trying to match a tweeter to those POS factory speakers will be nearly impossible :)

Or, best case, you go full active amplification AND add a highly customizable equalizer such as the JL Audio series (https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...k-88-car-audio-processors-system-tuning-98101) For several thousand dollars you can have highly tuned and customized, yet still totally crappy due to the inherent noisiness is Jeeps, that still sucks.
 
Let me know. Get a multimeter and we'll handle the amplifier :)

In the meantime, use double-sided tape to move the tweeters around, including how you point them. A pillar is the primary location, but pointed at you will be different than at the passenger...

Yes I will let you know when the time comes and yes the tweeters are being held with double sided tape after that picture was taken.

Would mounting them flat in the top of the dash not be a good location? I know someone did that on here and posted pictures.
 
Both tweeters can be pointed however you like with some double sided tape like Alien tape.

My passenger side has that side pointed at their headrest, and the drivers side has that one pointed at the drivers headrest. The speakers sound best pointed at the listening position

This is why coaxials pointed at the knees of the passenger and driver do not deliver the best sound
FheTjnT.jpg
 
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Yes I will let you know when the time comes and yes the tweeters are being held with double sided tape after that picture was taken.

Would mounting them flat in the top of the dash not be a good location? I know someone did that on here and posted pictures.

That would be a highly unusual orientation, but if you like how it sounds, that is the most important attribute. Typically the tweeters shoot toward the middle of the vehicle, but honestly, there isn't much 'typical' anymore since manufacturers spend a lot of money tuning each individual model.

Doug
 
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That would be a highly unusual orientation, but if you like how it sounds, that is the most important attribute. Typically the tweeters shoot toward the middle of the vehicle, but honestly, there isn't much 'typical' anymore since manufacturers spend a lot of money tuning each individual model.

Doug

Next spot to move them to will be the a-pillar's. Which is probably going to be the location. Thanks again.
 
Adding individual tweeters and crossovers is infinitely more expensive than buying a new set of component speakers. For some reason crossovers are very expensive...

Anyway, if you were to add your own tweeters and crossovers you need to buy crossovers with variable or multiple crossover points and roll-off rates since trying to match a tweeter to those POS factory speakers will be nearly impossible :)

Or, best case, you go full active amplification AND add a highly customizable equalizer such as the JL Audio series (https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...k-88-car-audio-processors-system-tuning-98101) For several thousand dollars you can have highly tuned and customized, yet still totally crappy due to the inherent noisiness is Jeeps, that still sucks.

Not the answer I was looking for.
I was just going to add some cheap tweeters in parallel with my cheap 2- way, front speakers. ;)
No amp.
 
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