John’s Consistently Inconsistent LJ Build

[jrfuda]

I have not done much work on the Jeep lately, pretty much putting off major work until the winter (regear and lockers) so I can try and enjoy it during the warm months.

I did make a small comfort change this morning. I installed a $19 dead pedal ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013DQ4ADK?tag=wranglerorg-20 ). It was super simple, though I had to use slightly longer bolts. It seems to make a big difference. The next thing I need to do is tweak the risers I have on the seats. I installed 1.5" risers, but I think I need to shorten the rear risers so the seat bottom leans back a bit. In every vehicle I've had that lets me change the incline/declinse of the seat bottom, I've always maxed out the decline from front to rear; I like the support it provides. I parts of some sheets of 1/2" and 1/4" aluminum left over from an old boat transom reinforcement project that I'm going to cut into squares and experiment with 1/2", 3/4", and 1" on the rear risers instead of 1.5" to see if I can dial-in the amount of decline.

Here's a shot of the installed dead pedal.

 

[jrfuda]

This morning, I made an antenna/whip flag mount out of a 2"x2"x1/4" piece of aluminum angle, mounted to existing holes in the MORryde tailgate hinge. It's pretty much just for a foldable whip flag for beach use but has room for an actual antenna mount as well if I ever want to add one. I may paint it black later, but I kind of like the raw aluminum for now. I have some of the aluminum angle left and I may use it to modify the mount of my Derale transmission cooler, so I can take advantage of the 1.25" body lift and get the cooler tucked in a little. Right now, the bottom of the cooler is flush with the frame.

Here's the antenna/whip mount.

 

[jrfuda]

Not been doing too much. I purchased HP Tuners and have been messing with it a little. For now, I'm just adjusting shift points as suggested in this thread: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...rs-modified-shift-schedule.78350/post-1721779 . Seems to be rather promising. I will likely eventually get a pro to tune it for me once I get my regear to 5.13 complete and 35s installed.

I am probably going to pull the LJ out of the garage and work on my wife's 2004 Honda Shadow which needs a new carb and probably a bunch of other works since it's sat under a cover for about 6 years. After that I think I am going to install brakes (probably electric-hydraulic disks, maybe just electric drums, but definitely not surge) on my boat trailer to make it more towable with the LJ and the wife's escape. I already installed a brake controller on the wife's Escape, but the LJ will need one. Might install one on the college kid's Frontier as well. The F150 is already good to go.

 

[nd996]

I started researching brakes before we bought the LJ after experiencing the poor braking on the TJ we test drove. I already had settled on a BMB big brake kit. Once we got the LJ and exchanged a couple of emails an a phone call with Blaine, I ordered the 16” kit. Install was intimidating at first, as it had been over 20 years since I’d even touched brakes on a vehicle, but it went very well thanks to the instructions, completeness of the kit and a couple of videos. While I was doing the brakes, I swapped out the U and ball joints as well.
View attachment 583458
View attachment 583459

Hey what size rim and tires are you running... and the spacers

 

[jrfuda]

Hey what size rim and tires are you running... and the spacers

The wheels are OE to a '21 JL Rubicon and installed by the previous owner. I see these exact wheels for sale for nearly nothing all the time.

They are 17"x7.5" with 6.5" backspacing and 5x5 lugs, so they have a 5x4.5 to 5x5 adapter with 2" spacing.

The tires are 28570R17 which is 32.7"x11.22"

I am going to replace the wheels and tires either when I find a good deal on a used set or the current tires need replacing. I will go up to 35s and I want something that does not require spacer or adapter, which will probably limit me to 17" wheels since it is hard to find 16s with appropriate backspace and even harder to find load something approximating 35x12.5 R16 in load range C. They are out there, but the selection is very limited. 15s are pretty much out of the question since most of them wont fit over my 16" big brake kit. I've found several 17" wheels that I think will fit the bill even though I prefer the look of a smaller diameter wheel.

 

[jrfuda]

I wanted to take the LJ out sans top this weekend. I removed the BullDawg sliding window uppers, Bestop Trektop slantback top, and my door surrounds. This was the first time I've had the top completely off. In the past we only removed the sides and back, leaving the top on, and still had the full doors and door surrounds in place. It is a completely different experience. The visibility is amazing. It is also much quieter without the top panel flapping and the wind seems less brutal. I think the air flows around us more with everything off then with just the sides and back off.

One thing that happened though is the BullDawg uppers removed some of the paint from the half doors. I painted the half-doors using Dupli-Color primer and Stone White, top-coated with Eastwood 2K clear. I'm not sure if it's the nature of the 2K clear or if I still need to improve my prep, but it has flaked off of a few other spots on the Jeep (usually leaving the Dupli-Color intact), but here the uppers rubbed the finish down to the metal in some spots.

Here is one of the spots where it flaked off, after I sanded, cleaned, and masked. There were several spots like this along the length of both doors.

Here is one of the doors after a couple of coats of Dupli-Color. Once I have the finish where I want it again, I am going to protect these areas with this film I originally bought to protect the kick-plate / door sill area: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MT98PB5 ... speaking of which, I still need to paint and protect the kick plate / sill! I probably need to work on a few other spots showing rust as well as seen below.

 

[jrfuda]

My paint touchup on my half doors was beautiful until I removed the tape, which lifted the Eastwood 2K clear coat off of the Dupli-Color base coat. Despite Eastwood saying it was suitable for application over lacquer, I am seriously doubting it now. Several Google searches showed others that had the same problem, and @D's Jeep Wrld mentioned similair issues here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/john’s-consistently-inconsistent-lj-build.82782/post-1663398

I peeled the clearcoat off in sheets, pictured below, wadded-up. I guess I will sand the doors, give them a fresh coat of Dupli-Color stone white and use the same Dupli-Color gloss clear I've used elsewhere with success. The Dupli-Color clear does not self-level as well as the Eastwood did but is very receptive to wet sanding and compounding. I used it on a couple of spots on my hood, and it blended well with the OE finish. Dupli-Color does not resist gas at all, though. The couple of touchups I did near the gas cap dissolved the first time gas got splashed on them. Should not be an issue on the doors. It does not have to be perfect. Maybe I'll eventually put armor on the doors and tub (raw aluminum is what I'm thinking) so it won't matter.

I really wish the Eastwood 2K would have stuck. Handling the sheets I peeled off, it shows amazing flexibility and resilience. It feels like a platic tarp or freezer bag at the thickness I had sprayed it - seems like it would have been rather resistant to chipping and scratching if it could have held on to the base coat.

Funny thing is the Eastwood 2K chassis black I sprayed all over my undercarriage has held on to all the assorted things under there (Eastwood rust encapsulator, Eastwood internal frame coating overspray, Rustoleum farm implement paint, and probably some oil and dirt that I missed), so I wonder what is so different about the Dupli-Color that It does not want to stick.

 

[jrfuda]

Finished re-refinishing my half doors. I only touched up the parts that lost paint from the clearcoat peeling incident, which was mostly the areas I repainted at the beginning of this. I masked off non-stone white areas and blended the new paint with the old. After 48 hours I wet sanded with 1000 and 1200 followed by compounding with Meguair's Ultra Cut. Normally I would have followed up with fine cut and polish, but I was in a rush to get the mirrors back on so I could drive it this morning. Instead, I hit it with some Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic coating spray, which works really well (was the best bang for the buck product in a Project Farm video). I will probably go back later and use the other compound and polish stage so the doors will match the rest of the finish, but it looks pretty good for now.

 

[jrfuda]

Took the LJ out for its first beach trip (Fort Fisher, NC). We got four adults, six surf rods, tackle, recovery gear, a cooler and all the other beach stuff easily into or onto the LJ using the extra cargo space and a Fish-N-Mate 6-holder Fold-down mounted to the rear with a RakAttach (swing away mount). Easy air down using Coyote deflators and air up with the York mini. Saw a few other folks stuck (as well documented on the Fort Fisher Idiots Facebook group), but I don't think my tires ever even spun in the sand. Here's a shot of my boys and me when we first arrived (taken by the wife).

 

[Wildman]

Took the LJ out for its first beach trip (Fort Fisher, NC). We got four adults, six surf rods, tackle, recovery gear, a cooler and all the other beach stuff easily into or onto the LJ using the extra cargo space and a Fish-N-Mate 6-holder Fold-down mounted to the rear with a RakAttach (swing away mount). Easy air down using Coyote deflators and air up with the York mini. Saw a few other folks stuck (as well documented on the Fort Fisher Idiots Facebook group), but I don't think my tires ever even spun in the sand. Here's a shot of my boys and me when we first arrived (taken by the wife).
View attachment 626311

Sounds like you had a good time.. Glad things are working for you. Always fun to watch people on the beach.

 

[jrfuda]

I'm thinking about lowering the jeep just a smidge. I replaced all the suspension components the PO installed except for the Rough Country Springs, based on the measurements taken and from what the PO told me, they are 4" lift springs. I recall the actual effective lift based on measurements is a smidge under 4".

I'm thinking of going down to 2"-3". I know I will lose 1"-2" of up-travel doing this, but I don't think I need it since I do not routinely rock crawl and have decent clearance because of the tummy tuck. This will make it a little easier to climb in and let me dial in a little more caster on the front. Not really sure I want to do it, just looking at possibilities.

This is a list of all my already installed suspension and suspension-adjacent upgrades

- ORO SwayLOC
- Savvy 1.25” Body Lift
- JKS 1” MML
- M.O.R.E. Steering Riser Bracket
- JKS HD Adjustable Front Track Bar
- Currectlync Steering System
- Rancho Steering Stabilizer Shock (RS5000)
- Metalcloak Duroflex Double Adjustable Aluminum Control Arms
- Rancho RS55255 and RS55256 Shocks
- JKS Adjustable Rear Track Bar
- JKS Rear Lower Shock Extension
- JB Conversions P231J HD Super Short SYE w/1310 CV Yoke
- JKS Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
- Tom Wood’s DC Rear Drive Shaft (After SYE and Tummy Tuck)

Would all of these still work if I go down an inch or two? I know I will have to adjust the control arms, steering, and track bars to the new ride-height geometry... assuming they will all have to be a little shorter. I need to actually look at them to see how much they can be shortened, but as a rule of thumb, do all these components typically work on less than 4" lifts? I assume the driveshaft won't care about the lift since it is designed to work from full stuff to full extension, and the SwayLOC can be adjusted. I'm mostly concerned about not being able to make the other items short enough and also do not want to go to non-adjustable versions.

 

[Woodrow]

I'm thinking about lowering the jeep just a smidge. I replaced all the suspension components the PO installed except for the Rough Country Springs, based on the measurements taken and from what the PO told me, they are 4" lift springs. I recall the actual effective lift based on measurements is a smidge under 4".

I'm thinking of going down to 2"-3". I know I will lose 1"-2" of up-travel doing this, but I don't think I need it since I do not routinely rock crawl and have decent clearance because of the tummy tuck. This will make it a little easier to climb in and let me dial in a little more caster on the front. Not really sure I want to do it, just looking at possibilities.

This is a list of all my already installed suspension and suspension-adjacent upgrades

- ORO SwayLOC
- Savvy 1.25” Body Lift
- JKS 1” MML
- M.O.R.E. Steering Riser Bracket
- JKS HD Adjustable Front Track Bar
- Currectlync Steering System
- Rancho Steering Stabilizer Shock (RS5000)
- Metalcloak Duroflex Double Adjustable Aluminum Control Arms
- Rancho RS55255 and RS55256 Shocks
- JKS Adjustable Rear Track Bar
- JKS Rear Lower Shock Extension
- JB Conversions P231J HD Super Short SYE w/1310 CV Yoke
- JKS Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
- Tom Wood’s DC Rear Drive Shaft (After SYE and Tummy Tuck)

Would all of these still work if I go down an inch or two? I know I will have to adjust the control arms, steering, and track bars to the new ride-height geometry... assuming they will all have to be a little shorter. I need to actually look at them to see how much they can be shortened, but as a rule of thumb, do all these components typically work on less than 4" lifts? I assume the driveshaft won't care about the lift since it is designed to work from full stuff to full extension, and the SwayLOC can be adjusted. I'm mostly concerned about not being able to make the other items short enough and also do not want to go to non-adjustable versions.

Should be doable. Your travel and bumps stops will be same but the new ride height will bias your split towards more down travel and less up travel.
Expected issues:
You will need to recenter axles by adjusting track bars at new ride height.
Re-ck/adjust your toe at the new ride height and then recenter the steering wheel once axles are centered and toe is adjusted.
You need to check the shorter springs don't un seat at the limit of down travel.
As you said, this may allow you to dial in more caster. I doubt you will need to adjust the rear pinion angle, but you should check the angles (front and rear) before and after the spring change.

 

[jrfuda]

Thanks @Woodrow . I just confirmed via email with Metalcoak that their adjustable control arms adjust back down to stock length, so they have plenty of range. The JKS track bars require a minimum of 2.5" lift according to JKS, so that would be as low as I could go (for reference, Rock Jock requires a minimum of 2"). Looks like I'll be safe to proceed if I decide to do it. Thanks again!

 

[Woodrow]

It’s also pretty straightforward to shorten your track bar a little bit if necessary. I actually just did this to my front JKS bar.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/woodrows-97-green-tj-moderate-build.51602/post-1760893

 

[jrfuda]

Cleaned my cowl out over the weekend after noticing some water infiltration and large pieces of dust/leaf fragments when the vents were on "fresh air" mode. Cowl was nasty and appears to have never been cleaned before. I was surprised how much junk was on either side of the cowl. I used some weather seal foam on either side when I reassembled after sealing. Looks like it could use some all along the front as well to force the air to only/mostly enter from the grilled/screened part which seems like it would keep most things over 1/32" out of the cowl. I did not have enough foam to do the front so just did the sides. The OE weather seal covers most of the gap in the front except for some area around the hinges.

Before

After

 

[Deep East TX LJ]

Very impressive build so far. Like me, it looks like you've spent a small fortune on painter's tape, primer and rattle cans!

 

[jrfuda]

Repost from another thread about wheel spacers:

I went ahead and installed the new wheels and tires before my regear because I need to pass inspection next month and was worried about tread on the old tires. I attempted milling some relief in the new wheels but was having trouble marking them consistently, so I bailed and used 1.25" spacers for now. Vehicle handles great even with the extra scrub radius, but I assume this will shorten the life of my ball joints. I experimented with no spacers at all, but the tires rubbed the lower control arms and my SwayLOC, but just barely; I was also concerned with the brake lines rubbing the tires under certain conditions as well. I honestly think I could get away with 1/2" - 3/4" spacers without anything rubbing. I may research pressing (or getting someone to press) in slightly longer studs/bolts into the new unit bearings and rear axle shafts when I do the re-gear and going with 1/2" or 3/4" spacers... I will have to do some tests with washers or something first (not on the road, of course). The wheel swap went pretty quick. Took me twice as long to get the spare mounted just right than it did to install all four wheels.

More info and a picture:

I had my local/regional tire chain (Black's Tire) install and balance the tires onto my new wheels. They did an awesome job and the wheels felt perfect once installed. Install went as I stated above. I ended up installing Toyo Open Country AT IIIs in 35 x 12.5 R17 111Q / C. I did have to air them down from the 39 PSI they inflated them to the 25 PSI that I calculated using the Tire Size dot com Tire Pressure Calculator and using the door label for the OEM data.

I had to order longer bolts for the spare snubbers as I need to put a 1/2" spacer (I made from King StarBoard) behind each snubber along with the spacers that came with the MOR/ryde Tailgate kit as the included bolts are no longer long enough. I'll have those in a few days and will install them later. Ideally I'd like to either cut relief in the bumper for the spare so I can lower it, or raise it just a smidge and pull it tighter to the tailgate. Right now the part of the tire before it crowns is just touching the bumper, so the bumper is acting as a snubber of sorts.

Next I reset my speedohealer and recalibrated it. Super easy and needed a 17.6% adjustment after reset. I then decided to make sure everything was seated well and re-did the break-in on my BMB super 16" Big brakes - which was good as I think I felt the rotors seat up against the lug studs on one of my more aggressive stops - so they should be in place now. I am glad I have a BMB big brake kit now that I'm on 35s as I can definitely tell they're needed.

I hope to be able to start my regear and some other projects in the next 4-6 weeks. I currently have no shop space as the garage is holding all the stuff that was in a room that is being renovated. Hoping they'll be done soon.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

I'm thinking about lowering the jeep just a smidge. I replaced all the suspension components the PO installed except for the Rough Country Springs, based on the measurements taken and from what the PO told me, they are 4" lift springs. I recall the actual effective lift based on measurements is a smidge under 4".

I'm thinking of going down to 2"-3". I know I will lose 1"-2" of up-travel doing this, but I don't think I need it since I do not routinely rock crawl and have decent clearance because of the tummy tuck. This will make it a little easier to climb in and let me dial in a little more caster on the front. Not really sure I want to do it, just looking at possibilities.

This is a list of all my already installed suspension and suspension-adjacent upgrades

- ORO SwayLOC
- Savvy 1.25” Body Lift
- JKS 1” MML
- M.O.R.E. Steering Riser Bracket
- JKS HD Adjustable Front Track Bar
- Currectlync Steering System
- Rancho Steering Stabilizer Shock (RS5000)
- Metalcloak Duroflex Double Adjustable Aluminum Control Arms
- Rancho RS55255 and RS55256 Shocks
- JKS Adjustable Rear Track Bar
- JKS Rear Lower Shock Extension
- JB Conversions P231J HD Super Short SYE w/1310 CV Yoke
- JKS Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
- Tom Wood’s DC Rear Drive Shaft (After SYE and Tummy Tuck)

Would all of these still work if I go down an inch or two? I know I will have to adjust the control arms, steering, and track bars to the new ride-height geometry... assuming they will all have to be a little shorter. I need to actually look at them to see how much they can be shortened, but as a rule of thumb, do all these components typically work on less than 4" lifts? I assume the driveshaft won't care about the lift since it is designed to work from full stuff to full extension, and the SwayLOC can be adjusted. I'm mostly concerned about not being able to make the other items short enough and also do not want to go to non-adjustable versions.

The JKS track bars and metalcloak arms will be fine. I run single adj metalcloak and those JKS trackbars with Rancho 2.5 springs.
I'm pretty sure your shocks will be a bit too long limiting uptravel and you'll need to go down one size to the 2.5" lift versions. You can measure once the new springs are in. Check the TW driveshaft, but it should be OK as you cycle through that height on your travel currently.

 

[jrfuda]

Finally took the LJ on an actual offroad trail. Even though I did not hit anything really challenging, all the modifications I've made so far where very helpful, especially the tummy tuck as there were lots of humps where the clearance came in handy. There were a couple of spots where I wish I has already done my 5.13/locker/chromoly shaft regear I've been putting off for almost a year.

I think I'm in a place with other projects that I should be able to tackle the regear in the next 6 weeks or so and have it done in time for spring.

One thing I was thinking about is how to jack the Jeep while I work on it. When I did all the other work, I usually had four jack stands under the frame since I was doing a lot with the suspension. I'm thinking for a regear it would be better to place the jack stands under that axles, as high up as I can get them to have room to work. If that is the best way to go, is it better to place both axles on stands or just the axle I'm working on? Seems like I'd have more room if both axles are on stands and I won't have to worry about the non-jacked axle moving as much since I'll be spending so much time underneath. The only advantage I could see with jacking just the active axle would be changing the angle of the diff so I'm not pushing up hill as much when installing the carrier and such, but I don't think it would help that much. I'll also place the removed tires/wheels under the frame to provide protection if I somehow knock the axle off of a stand.

What do y'all think?

 

[D's Jeep Wrld]

Finally took the LJ on an actual offroad trail. Even though I did not hit anything really challenging, all the modifications I've made so far where very helpful, especially the tummy tuck as there were lots of humps where the clearance came in handy. There were a couple of spots where I wish I has already done my 5.13/locker/chromoly shaft regear I've been putting off for almost a year.

I think I'm in a place with other projects that I should be able to tackle the regear in the next 6 weeks or so and have it done in time for spring.

One thing I was thinking about is how to jack the Jeep while I work on it. When I did all the other work, I usually had four jack stands under the frame since I was doing a lot with the suspension. I'm thinking for a regear it would be better to place the jack stands under that axles, as high up as I can get them to have room to work. If that is the best way to go, is it better to place both axles on stands or just the axle I'm working on? Seems like I'd have more room if both axles are on stands and I won't have to worry about the non-jacked axle moving as much since I'll be spending so much time underneath. The only advantage I could see with jacking just the active axle would be changing the angle of the diff so I'm not pushing up hill as much when installing the carrier and such, but I don't think it would help that much. I'll also place the removed tires/wheels under the frame to provide protection if I somehow knock the axle off of a stand.

What do y'all think?

When I did new gears on my rear axle for the 3rd and last time I always had the jeep back end facing up the driveway
I didn't want the carrier to able to fall out easier if I had the jeep axle facing down! Especially since we both have a tummy tuck the axle is rotated enough like if you were parked uphill grill facing down if that makes sense ?

I'd do 1 axle at a time,Once your done with the rear then move the jeep to do the front. But again there's guys with lifts and do it all with the jeep in the air they just need to be more cautious when putting the carrier back in