Jeep won't start: could this be a ground issue?

[dac]

Hi, I'm new here so apologies if i'm in the wrong section.

I have a 2006 Jeep LJ Manual trans, auto zone tested the battery because it was starting hard but said it's the alternator, so I changed it but then now it won't start. It makes no sound at all when the key is turned. I have just been through the ignition (the pin snapped) last month so that's all new and the ignition wire (yellow) to the starter gives 12v when the key is turned, the battery tests good, took the starter out and that tested that good fuse is good also. I suspect the ground(s) because it made absolutely no sound with the key turned then i noticed the terminals gave 12.61 but after the terminals connections I was getting 11. something so i took the connections apart and cleaned/sanded re-installed and now it makes one click sound and only one and I believe i hear the fuel pump but only one click.
Here is what I know:
1. battery good all dash lights strong (battery tested)
2. can push start pop clutch (that's how i got home)
3. battery, starter test good
4. ignition wire has 12v when key turned
I have searched everywhere for a list or schematic of the factory grounds and have tried everything on youtube, just wondering if there is any other clue someone may have after all the "obvious" tests

 

[CodaMan]

Sounds like the ignition actuator to me.

 

[Chris]

Yep, time for a new ignition actuator me thinks!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BYX8W8/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Tangerined]

If there's 12v on the yellow wire then the ignition actuator is probably good because that's what goes from actuator to starter relay. Does the starter relay click as well? I don't think you can hear that from inside the cab. Listen for it at the PDC box.

I've been through this before too, the starter relay was good, I was getting 12V at the actual starter terminals so I thought the starter was bad. Took the starter out and connected a battery up to it and it worked! Put the starter back in and everything worked again. Anyways this happened a few more times until I finally just replaced the starter with a Bosch one, hasn't happened again.

EDIT: Just looked at the wiring diagram, could also be your clutch pedal sensor? Put the fuse in to bypass it and see. But that's only if you don't have 12V at the starter relay in the PDC box.

 

[John Scoggins]

Do you have battery voltage to the small connection on the starter solenoid when the key is in the Start position?

 

[dac]

I have checked the clutch pedal sensor when I was fooling around with the ignition switch and it was working, plus I do have voltage going to the starter (yellow wire) when key is in start position and I get that one click. I am suspect of the starter though it tested good as I snapped off the end part of the post when backing off the nut (very corroded). I just am stumped because it (starter) tests good out of the vehicle as everything (battery) does and then installed it's not working and that's why I suspect grounding. Is there a breakout of the ground connections so I can check, but there again i would think I would at least get the usual multiple clicks if it's grounding (not enough current)
One other thing, with voltage going to the yellow starter with the ignition key on, that would rule out the fuse, relay and everything before it and place the problem at the starter, correct?

 

[John Scoggins]

I am suspect of the starter though it tested good as I snapped off the end part of the post when backing off the nut (very corroded)

Sounds like you found the problem, but if you want you can check the resistance between the starter body and the ground terminal of the battery, should be very little and that would confirm the ground path for the starter motor.

 

[dac]

Just checked with multimeter set at 2K (ohms) , the probes together register .5
and neg terminal to starter body register .6 to .5 in multiple spots, so the ground is good then I guess

 

[qslim]

When I t/s a starting issue I like to try and figure it out if it's on the control side (ignition switch, actuator, clutch safety switch, etc) or the power side (battery, starter, cables). It's real easy to figure this out by putting the trans in P or N, pulling the starter relay and jumping the terminals circled at the relay below. That will bypass the control side of the circuit and send battery voltage to your starter. If you do this and it cranks, you know your problem is on the control side. If it doesn't crank then your problem is somewhere between the battery and the starter.

 

[qslim]

Also you can find schematics and locations of all your grounds in your factory service manual, section 8W. Go to the 'TJ Resources' forum, there's a thread there will all the manuals available for a free download.

 

[John Scoggins]

Just checked with multimeter set at 2K (ohms) , the probes together register .5
and neg terminal to starter body register .6 to .5 in multiple spots, so the ground is good then I guess

Yup, ground looks good. So you have 12+ volts to the small post on the starter when the key is in the START position, you show to have a good ground between the starter motor and negative side of the battery, other than making sure the positive cable to the starter is making good contact with the battery and starter post (you said the starter post is corroded) sounds like the starter has given up.

 

[dac]

I replaced the starter and now it starts fine! It's so confusing when the other starter tested good.
You Folks are GREAT I really appreciate the help. This forum is so helpful and especially when I was completely stumped you all came to the rescue Thanks so much!