HVAC vacuum lines inside cabin

cpwolf

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I’ve seen the graphic of lines in the engine bay.

Is there a diagram, I’ve looked and search is not giving me one I can use.

I have a 2005 TJ and suddenly the air only comes out the defrost.

I read that is default so probably a line leak or disconnect.

I literally just pulled the radio and did some wiring, have a hope that I disconnected one.

Is there more than 1, a t?
 
There’s a FSM for your Jeep under resources.
It will have what you are looking for.
My leak was to the engine compartment vacuum line so not 100% sure about inside the cabin but I think(which is dangerous lol) that there is only one line going through the firewall to the HVAC box and then distributed from there to the HVAC controls below the radio.
 
You could have partially uncoupled the hoses going between the damper actuators and the climate controls, one of the colored lines attaching to the selector or the incoming vacuum supply.
Suggest you inspect your vacuum connections behind the climate controls and glove compartment.
Several years ago I had a similar problem and used a MityVac to locate the leak.
 
In my experience, it's hard to disconnect those lines, and they tend to stay more pliable than the ones in the engine bay. I would look at those first, as well as testing the check valves.
 
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In my experience, it's hard to disconnect those lines, and they tend to stay more pliable than the ones in the engine bay. I would look at those first, as well as testing the check valves.

I hear you, but I pulled the radio, pulled the plugs below and replaced lighter, ran wiring behind it and the glove box
The next time I start it, this happens.
Seems like a really smart move to start there, but I hear you.
 
So on the phone, finding anything on the manual is annoying.

I ran it through Grok which is free, and got this answer. Pretty dang good actually:

The vacuum hoses in a 2005 Jeep Wrangler TJ that control the HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) system are critical for directing airflow to the correct vents (dash, floor, or defrost). Below is a detailed explanation of the vacuum hose connections based on available information and common configurations for the TJ’s HVAC system.


Overview of the Vacuum System for HVAC Controls


The HVAC system in a 2005 Jeep TJ relies on vacuum pressure to operate the mode selector switch, which controls where air is directed (e.g., defrost, dash vents, or floor vents). The vacuum lines originate in the engine compartment, pass through the firewall, and connect to the HVAC control unit under the dash. Key components include:


  • Vacuum reservoir: Stores vacuum to maintain consistent operation, especially during acceleration when engine vacuum may drop.
  • Vacuum check valves: Ensure one-way flow to maintain vacuum pressure.
  • Vacuum lines: Small-diameter hoses (often 1/8” or 3/16”) that connect the engine’s vacuum source to the reservoir and HVAC controls.
  • Mode switch: The control knob on the dash that directs vacuum to actuators for vent selection.

Vacuum Hose Routing and Connections


Here’s how the vacuum hoses typically connect the HVAC controls in a 2005 Jeep TJ:


  1. Vacuum Source (Intake Manifold):
    • The primary vacuum source is a port on the intake manifold, typically located near the throttle body or at the rear of the manifold on the driver’s side.
    • A vacuum hose connects this port to a T-fitting or directly to a check valve to regulate vacuum flow.
  2. T-Fitting at the Firewall:
    • From the intake manifold, a vacuum hose runs to a T-fitting near the firewall (often located above or near the passenger-side battery).
    • The T-fitting splits the vacuum line:
      • One branch goes through the firewall to supply the HVAC control unit.
      • Another branch routes under the battery tray to the vacuum reservoir, a small canister mounted to the inner fender well or behind the battery tray. This reservoir (often labeled as part #8 in diagrams) stores vacuum to maintain HVAC function during low-vacuum conditions (e.g., during acceleration).
  3. Through the Firewall:
    • The vacuum line passing through the firewall (typically behind the glove box) becomes a black hose that connects to a vacuum harness or connector near the fuse box or HVAC control unit.
    • This black hose feeds the mode switch (the rightmost knob on the HVAC control panel), which directs vacuum to actuators that control the blend doors for vent selection.
  4. Under-Dash Connections:
    • Behind the glove box, the vacuum line connects to a vacuum harness with multiple colored hoses (often red, yellow, blue, etc.) that route to specific actuators for the floor, dash, and defrost vents. These actuators open or close the blend doors based on the mode switch position.
    • The mode switch itself (sometimes called the A/C heater vacuum switch or mode switch) may hiss when turned if functioning properly, indicating vacuum pressure. If it’s free-spinning or lacks resistance, the switch or its vacuum connection may be faulty.
  5. Vacuum Reservoir Connection:
    • The vacuum reservoir under the battery tray is connected via a hose from the T-fitting. This hose may include a check valve to prevent vacuum loss.
    • If this hose is disconnected or the reservoir is missing, the HVAC system may default to defrost mode, especially under acceleration, as vacuum pressure drops.
  6. Cruise Control Connection (if equipped):
    • In some cases, the T-fitting at the firewall may have a stub or additional connection for the cruise control system. If this stub is uncapped or disconnected, it can cause a vacuum leak, affecting both HVAC and cruise control functionality. Taping or capping this stub may temporarily restore HVAC function, but it should be properly connected to the cruise control actuator if present.

Common Issues and Troubleshooting


  • Symptoms of Vacuum Hose Issues:
    • Air only blows from the defrost vents, regardless of mode switch position (indicates a vacuum leak or disconnected hose).
    • HVAC controls shift to defrost during acceleration (indicates a missing or disconnected vacuum reservoir).
    • No resistance or hissing when turning the mode switch (indicates a broken switch or disconnected vacuum line).
  • Common Problems:
    • Brittle or cracked vacuum hoses, especially those exposed to engine heat.
    • Disconnected or cut hoses, particularly under the battery tray.
    • Faulty check valves allowing vacuum loss.
    • Broken mode switch or loose vacuum connections behind the dash.
  • Troubleshooting Steps:
    • Inspect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the T-fitting and check for cracks or leaks.
    • Verify the connection to the vacuum reservoir under the battery tray. Remove the battery and tray if necessary to access it.
    • Check the hose passing through the firewall (behind the glove box) for secure connections to the HVAC control unit.
    • Test for vacuum leaks by blowing smoke (e.g., cigarette smoke) through the firewall hose and watching for leaks under the dash.
    • Replace brittle hoses with high-quality silicone vacuum hoses (e.g., 1/4” or 5/16” diameter, available from auto parts stores or online).
    • Ensure the mode switch is functional and properly connected. A replacement switch for 2005 TJ models may be listed as fitting 1999-2004, as the part is similar.

Replacement Parts and Resources


  • Vacuum Hose: Mopar part #55037637AB is a common replacement for 2003-2006 TJ vacuum hoses.
  • Vacuum Reservoir: Located under the battery tray or in the fender well (part #8 in diagrams).
  • Vacuum Hose Kits: Silicone vacuum hose kits for Jeep models (e.g., HPSI Motorsports for 1991-2001 Cherokee 4.0L) can be adapted for TJ models. These include durable hoses and T-fittings.
  • Vacuum Diagram: Check the underside of the hood for a vacuum and emissions diagram, which supersedes factory service manuals for accuracy. If missing, consult a Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your 2005 TJ or online forums like Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum or JeepForum.com.

Notes


  • Cruise Control: If your TJ has cruise control, ensure the T-fitting stub is connected to the cruise control actuator, not capped, to maintain functionality.
  • Aftermarket Parts: Generic vacuum tubing and fittings are available at auto parts stores (e.g., Advance Auto Parts) or online (e.g., Amazon). Silicone hoses are recommended for durability.
  • Accessing Components: Removing the glove box and battery tray may be necessary to access the vacuum reservoir and under-dash connections.

Diagram Availability


A precise vacuum hose diagram is often found on the underside of the hood or in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for the 2005 TJ. Online resources like Jeep Wrangler Forum (wranglerforum.com) or Jeep Enthusiast Forums (jeepforum.com) may have user-uploaded diagrams or photos. For example, a 2000 TJ diagram shows the T-fitting and reservoir connections, which are similar for 2005 models.


If you need a specific diagram or have a photo of your engine bay, please provide it, and I can help identify the exact connections. Alternatively, I can search for a 2005 TJ-specific vacuum diagram if you confirm your engine size (e.g., 2.4L or 4.0L) and whether you have A/C or cruise control. Would you like me to do that?
 
So on the phone, finding anything on the manual is annoying.

I ran it through Grok which is free, and got this answer. Pretty dang good actually:

The vacuum hoses in a 2005 Jeep Wrangler TJ that control the HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) system are critical for directing airflow to the correct vents (dash, floor, or defrost). Below is a detailed explanation of the vacuum hose connections based on available information and common configurations for the TJ’s HVAC system.


Overview of the Vacuum System for HVAC Controls


The HVAC system in a 2005 Jeep TJ relies on vacuum pressure to operate the mode selector switch, which controls where air is directed (e.g., defrost, dash vents, or floor vents). The vacuum lines originate in the engine compartment, pass through the firewall, and connect to the HVAC control unit under the dash. Key components include:


  • Vacuum reservoir: Stores vacuum to maintain consistent operation, especially during acceleration when engine vacuum may drop.
  • Vacuum check valves: Ensure one-way flow to maintain vacuum pressure.
  • Vacuum lines: Small-diameter hoses (often 1/8” or 3/16”) that connect the engine’s vacuum source to the reservoir and HVAC controls.
  • Mode switch: The control knob on the dash that directs vacuum to actuators for vent selection.

Vacuum Hose Routing and Connections


Here’s how the vacuum hoses typically connect the HVAC controls in a 2005 Jeep TJ:


  1. Vacuum Source (Intake Manifold):
    • The primary vacuum source is a port on the intake manifold, typically located near the throttle body or at the rear of the manifold on the driver’s side.
    • A vacuum hose connects this port to a T-fitting or directly to a check valve to regulate vacuum flow.
  2. T-Fitting at the Firewall:
    • From the intake manifold, a vacuum hose runs to a T-fitting near the firewall (often located above or near the passenger-side battery).
    • The T-fitting splits the vacuum line:
      • One branch goes through the firewall to supply the HVAC control unit.
      • Another branch routes under the battery tray to the vacuum reservoir, a small canister mounted to the inner fender well or behind the battery tray. This reservoir (often labeled as part #8 in diagrams) stores vacuum to maintain HVAC function during low-vacuum conditions (e.g., during acceleration).
  3. Through the Firewall:
    • The vacuum line passing through the firewall (typically behind the glove box) becomes a black hose that connects to a vacuum harness or connector near the fuse box or HVAC control unit.
    • This black hose feeds the mode switch (the rightmost knob on the HVAC control panel), which directs vacuum to actuators that control the blend doors for vent selection.
  4. Under-Dash Connections:
    • Behind the glove box, the vacuum line connects to a vacuum harness with multiple colored hoses (often red, yellow, blue, etc.) that route to specific actuators for the floor, dash, and defrost vents. These actuators open or close the blend doors based on the mode switch position.
    • The mode switch itself (sometimes called the A/C heater vacuum switch or mode switch) may hiss when turned if functioning properly, indicating vacuum pressure. If it’s free-spinning or lacks resistance, the switch or its vacuum connection may be faulty.
  5. Vacuum Reservoir Connection:
    • The vacuum reservoir under the battery tray is connected via a hose from the T-fitting. This hose may include a check valve to prevent vacuum loss.
    • If this hose is disconnected or the reservoir is missing, the HVAC system may default to defrost mode, especially under acceleration, as vacuum pressure drops.
  6. Cruise Control Connection (if equipped):
    • In some cases, the T-fitting at the firewall may have a stub or additional connection for the cruise control system. If this stub is uncapped or disconnected, it can cause a vacuum leak, affecting both HVAC and cruise control functionality. Taping or capping this stub may temporarily restore HVAC function, but it should be properly connected to the cruise control actuator if present.

Common Issues and Troubleshooting


  • Symptoms of Vacuum Hose Issues:
    • Air only blows from the defrost vents, regardless of mode switch position (indicates a vacuum leak or disconnected hose).
    • HVAC controls shift to defrost during acceleration (indicates a missing or disconnected vacuum reservoir).
    • No resistance or hissing when turning the mode switch (indicates a broken switch or disconnected vacuum line).
  • Common Problems:
    • Brittle or cracked vacuum hoses, especially those exposed to engine heat.
    • Disconnected or cut hoses, particularly under the battery tray.
    • Faulty check valves allowing vacuum loss.
    • Broken mode switch or loose vacuum connections behind the dash.
  • Troubleshooting Steps:
    • Inspect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the T-fitting and check for cracks or leaks.
    • Verify the connection to the vacuum reservoir under the battery tray. Remove the battery and tray if necessary to access it.
    • Check the hose passing through the firewall (behind the glove box) for secure connections to the HVAC control unit.
    • Test for vacuum leaks by blowing smoke (e.g., cigarette smoke) through the firewall hose and watching for leaks under the dash.
    • Replace brittle hoses with high-quality silicone vacuum hoses (e.g., 1/4” or 5/16” diameter, available from auto parts stores or online).
    • Ensure the mode switch is functional and properly connected. A replacement switch for 2005 TJ models may be listed as fitting 1999-2004, as the part is similar.

Replacement Parts and Resources


  • Vacuum Hose: Mopar part #55037637AB is a common replacement for 2003-2006 TJ vacuum hoses.
  • Vacuum Reservoir: Located under the battery tray or in the fender well (part #8 in diagrams).
  • Vacuum Hose Kits: Silicone vacuum hose kits for Jeep models (e.g., HPSI Motorsports for 1991-2001 Cherokee 4.0L) can be adapted for TJ models. These include durable hoses and T-fittings.
  • Vacuum Diagram: Check the underside of the hood for a vacuum and emissions diagram, which supersedes factory service manuals for accuracy. If missing, consult a Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your 2005 TJ or online forums like Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum or JeepForum.com.

Notes


  • Cruise Control: If your TJ has cruise control, ensure the T-fitting stub is connected to the cruise control actuator, not capped, to maintain functionality.
  • Aftermarket Parts: Generic vacuum tubing and fittings are available at auto parts stores (e.g., Advance Auto Parts) or online (e.g., Amazon). Silicone hoses are recommended for durability.
  • Accessing Components: Removing the glove box and battery tray may be necessary to access the vacuum reservoir and under-dash connections.

Diagram Availability


A precise vacuum hose diagram is often found on the underside of the hood or in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for the 2005 TJ. Online resources like Jeep Wrangler Forum (wranglerforum.com) or Jeep Enthusiast Forums (jeepforum.com) may have user-uploaded diagrams or photos. For example, a 2000 TJ diagram shows the T-fitting and reservoir connections, which are similar for 2005 models.


If you need a specific diagram or have a photo of your engine bay, please provide it, and I can help identify the exact connections. Alternatively, I can search for a 2005 TJ-specific vacuum diagram if you confirm your engine size (e.g., 2.4L or 4.0L) and whether you have A/C or cruise control. Would you like me to do that?

95% of the time the vacuum leak is in the engine compartment. The line comes from the intake the tees with one hose going to the reservoir and the other through the fire wall and to the control head. The reservoir in under the battery tray. Crawl under and inspect, make sure hose is connected and reservoir or damaged. Check the hose for Acid damage around the battery. Look for cracks in the plastic line. Cracks can be repaired with small vacuum hose 3/32” cut the plastic hose and slip vacuum line over it. Spray the line with brake carb cleaner before sliding vacuum hose on, this will glue line to hose. If the hose is broken right at the fire wall grommet push it inside drop the glove box make the repair and pull it back through with a welding rod or an antenna.
 
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95% of the time the vacuum leak is in the engine compartment. The line comes from the intake the tees with one hose going to the reservoir and the other through the fire wall and to the control head. The reservoir in under the battery tray. Crawl under and inspect, make sure hose is connected and reservoir or damaged. Check the hose for Acid damage around the battery. Look for cracks in the plastic line. Cracks can be repaired with small vacuum hose 3/32” cut the plastic hose and slip vacuum line over it. Spray the line with brake carb cleaner before sliding vacuum hose on, this will glue line to hose. If the hose is broken right at the fire wall grommet push it inside drop the glove box make the repair and pull it back through with a welding rod or an antenna.

So it was at the manifold, but I caused it working on the radio. I can almost guarantee, thought I did in the cabin, but the line over by the computer and t, it's tight, I was pulling and running a new power cable for the Powered Sub, and I'm sure I knocked it off, because the elbow at the manifold feel loose. It works, I tried to tighten a zip tie, but I need to get a new elbow there.