Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

High Watermark overlanding trail in AR

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https://www.overlandtrailguides.com/post/high-water-mark-trail

I think we're doing this first week in June. Not sure if I'm going to be able to go or not, have to travel for work and also the Stars will hopefully be skating for the cup at the same time, and yes, I do have my priorities straight.

Anyway, we've never done any sort of "overlanding" before, and I have no interest in camping. Actually, I drive a Land Cruiser so in some ways it feels dumb to tow a jeep 5hrs away using a fully capable rig that I could comfortably sleep in, only to actually then drive a more capable but less comfortable rig for 2 days. But whatevs.


Some videos of the trail:

There are a number of water crossings, which is stuff we do a lot of anyway up in Disney, OK, but we've had a TON of rain this spring so I expect a number of them will be unpassable, even for the crazy guy in our group.

Hopefully I can even make the trip.
 
I have "overlanded" in this area before and it is a lot of fun. We made our own route and some of it overlapped the HWM route. I was in a stock TJ on 31s and my friend was in a JKU on 35s. We started just north of Conway AR (somewhere off of 65) and made it to just west of Russellville area before my buddy broke (that is a different story). It rained a good bit leading up to our trip and a lot of water crossings were up to the headlights on my TJ, but other than that nothing major. The creeks and rivers rise really quick in that area, so just be careful if it rains. We did pick a route that kept us on dirt for the most part and that resulted in some of the trails being overgrown and brush/limbs scraping the side of our jeeps, so if you are in a land cruiser and care about the paint, you may want to ensure you are picking a route that is more gravel than dirt.

Have fun!
 
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I won't be in the cruiser, I'm just loling at having an LC and then not overlanding it. I'll just tow the jeep from DFW to our cabin in Mt. Ida, then just drive the jeep up to Russellville where I think we're planning to drop in. I'm expecting to need to re-route around deep water on plenty of occasions.
 
I forgot that channel existed. That goober was the one who got into a pissing match with Rory from Trailmater. They put the struggle in off-roading.

I just picked that video at more or less random out of the many that cover this trail.
 
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https://www.overlandtrailguides.com/post/high-water-mark-trail

I think we're doing this first week in June. Not sure if I'm going to be able to go or not, have to travel for work and also the Stars will hopefully be skating for the cup at the same time, and yes, I do have my priorities straight.

Anyway, we've never done any sort of "overlanding" before, and I have no interest in camping. Actually, I drive a Land Cruiser so in some ways it feels dumb to tow a jeep 5hrs away using a fully capable rig that I could comfortably sleep in, only to actually then drive a more capable but less comfortable rig for 2 days. But whatevs.


Some videos of the trail:

There are a number of water crossings, which is stuff we do a lot of anyway up in Disney, OK, but we've had a TON of rain this spring so I expect a number of them will be unpassable, even for the crazy guy in our group.

Hopefully I can even make the trip.

Please no more videos of those guys.
 
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With the amount of rain lately it should be Very High Water Mark Trail 😁.
We are planning to be in the Lake Sylvia , Lake Winona area June 3rd . Going to run Ritter Rd and surrounding trails .
 
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I saw a video posted yesterday of one of the water crossings. I'm 90% sure 2 guys in our group won't be able to cross it as-is (or won't have the sack to try), so I'll probably be off the hook for even trying. I'm not going to have doors, and the water level looked like it was over the bottom of the door sills.... I'm not afraid to cross water but I would much prefer to not have it IN the jeep.
 
We were up there riding in the area around Oark in November . They received several inches of rain just before we arrived . Some of the water crossing were a little deeper than I like . Wouldn't have been an issue for your height . We were running 33's with 2 inches of lift . Since then we've dropped to 32's , I'll have to watch out for the high water . We enjoy trail riding , but not playing submarine :) . Many moons ago I built trucks for deep water and mud , but that was long ago . Now I prefer a nice ride through the woods .
 
Well, we survived.

TL;DR - we planned to do 2 full days on the trails and then maybe hit some of the sites at Byrd's Adventure Park. Overnight storms & vehicle trouble resulted in one FULL day on the trails (22 miles) and being trapped in a campground behind a low water bridge. And then Byrd's closed their trails due to down trees & high water. Nobody died. Scenery was amazing, would absolutely hit this area again, there are miles Forest Service roads & fire trails so you could spend a long time here and never hit the same trail twice.

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7 vehicles, 8 people. I brought my 15 yr old with. He's been wanting to camp, but nobody in our house wants to in any way shape or form, so this was his big chance.

2014 JK Rubicon
2022 JLU Rubicon
2021 Gladiator Rubicon
2002 TJ*
1997 TJ - mine
A pair of Sami's of unknown origin

* the 02 TJ is the one we bought a month or so ago with the blown transmission. The plan was to rebuild it and flip it, but instead XJ buddy liked it more so he sold his instead.

The plan was to drop the tow rigs at Byrd's Adventure park outside Ozark and then caravan to the hotel in Russellville. We took AR215 to AR103 which was a ridiculously beautiful drive. I would've been content to do 3 days of that drive alone. I picked up some soft top doors right before the trip so I was able to easily go doors off for that leg of the trip. Twisties in the woods with the doors off is my happy place. About 20 minutes into that leg they had to stop traffic for a road crew driving new pilings due to all the rain eroding the road support. The 02 TJ announces that he's about to run out of gas, so he "borrows" a gallon from the road crew.

From the hotel the next morning we expected to get an early start, but due to big weather due west of us we decided to wait it out. Turns out there was a tornado in Van Buren, and that storm was tracking directly at our drop in point north of Dover, AR. Where, exactly? I have no idea. Thankfully the guy leading our caravan had a Gaia map or some such. We just went where he told us. We missed the worst of that storm. About 20 minutes into the actual trail, the 02 snaps his track bar bolt. Don't worry, having snapped the track bar on his old TJ, he brought a backup. Which he left in the tow rig 2 hrs away. Never fear, one of the bolts on his swing away tire carrier was "close enough" to make a mid-storm trail repair. Impressive, actually. A few hours later that bolt broke, and we continued to play the game of "what bolt is under-utilized in it's current role but can also fit in the track bar hole?" with a surprising amount of success.

Based on the YouTubes I saw for this trail, I expected mostly wide forest service roads and very little actual wheeling. What we got was about 90% narrow rocky trail riding. We did have several river crossings which I expected to be impassible, but only one such crossing actually gave us trouble. The water was very clear, apparently the runoff from the storm hadn't made it downstream yet. We stopped for a swim in a few spots. On the "technical" side, we really only ran into one obstacle that gave us trouble. Even the rubi's had to take several runs at the climb and one of them had to winch. But not my 3.55 open diff TJ, she went right up on the first try, no spinning, just winning. So that was a nice flex on the high dollar rigs. Again, I have no idea how we stayed on the trail. There were times when there was barely path with lots of overgrowth made it felt like we were forging through the jungle. At one point we were on a LONG ascent through some pretty "unmolested" terrain, but eventually we came out at some vista at around 2200', which is the tallest thing around by at least 400'. Had some great views from up there. And then a bunch of rugged switchbacks on the way down. Really cool stuff. This part of Arkansas is severely underrated.

We made it to our campsite around 8pm, which was a Forest Service campground right next to Haw Creek waterfall. I set my tent up less than 50 yds from the falls. It was great. Until around 2am when the thunder rolled in. Having zero cell service and not even able to tune in the weather channels on my radio, we were completely blind as to what was coming. 4 rounds of severe thunderstorms later, we awoke to Niagra Falls, tents underwater (I had managed to find high ground so we stayed dry), and a low-water bridge that was now 3 feet deep with an absolutely rushing current. Thanks to the magic of satellites I was able to get a weather report from my wife, who told us that there was another major storm coming through that night. So it was either cross before that round, or be stuck for multiple days. Once the rain let up we waited about 6 hours, watching the water recede, and eventually we all made it across. We've crossed deeper water, but that current was strong. We didn't get a picture of it, but there were some risers on the edges of the bridge when we initially crossed. For reasons, we were able to see it again after the water level dropped much further, and those blocks were gone. So the current was quite legit.

Before:
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After:
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"Before":
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After:
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So day 2 was pretty much blown at the campsite, but if you're stuck staring at a waterfall and you have dry clothes and food, how bad is it, really? At this point we had 2 rigs with trouble and an adventure park with trees down everywhere, we just ate dinner and called it. Still had a great time. Now had it poured rain while we were riding, that might've been less fun.

Had we been at the cabin at Byrds the night before, this parking spot would've been underwater. While we were busy having no service, they were frantically leaving us VM's telling us we needed to move our cars. The cabin was about 15 min from the park, so they didn't know if we were there or not.
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Father and son memories!

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We did the Highwater Mark Trail for about 3 hours, and then transitioned to the Ozark Overland Adventure Trail. Including lunch, swimming, clearing a few trees, and fixing multiple track bar bolts, we were on the trails for about 9 hours. At no point did we see another person. It was magical. All told we did ~30 miles, so roughly 3 miles per hour. Still took a half a tank of gas. There are a number of really cool things to see along the way or nearby, but given that we had no reception and I'm only just now understanding where we even were, we were unaware of nearly all of it. The Arkansas Sphinx & Pam's Grotto (sounds sexy!), and Car Wash Falls were very close yet we missed them.

I've pieced together the trail from geotagged pics and google maps. Most of it is actually identified Forest Service roads, but TIL that even those dim trails are numbered. No surprise there is no route numbered for the major river crossing. It's all on Gaia, but it's cool to see nearly all of it on Google Maps.

The first leg followed this route:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Znxyi7vJUq5Lxkqd8

  • Dropped in 1810 just south of Simpson.
  • Right onto a trail along Moccasin Creek —> this is unclear because the trail appears to be on the north side of the creek, but we were on the south side.
  • Rode along/above Moccasin Creek
  • Indian Creek Rd / Treat Rd was the old bridge
  • Most likely took Treat Rd west / 1002 / 1842 north
  • Left/south on 5911 / 1802
  • Crossed Trace Creek on 1802/5911, this was the swimming hole
Google Maps doesn't have the trail crossing Trace Creek, so it ends at that red pin.

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The 2nd leg of the trip followed this route:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/xqFQWzJeenAPQrk78

Crossed Trace Creek on CR-5911, this was the swimming hole
Most likely turned right/south on 5911 / Meadows Knob
Right/west on Pilot Rock Mountain Road
Pilot Rock Rd, Pilot Knob was the vista
unmarked dead end paralleled 1800/4840
Turned right/north onto 1827?
Turned right onto 1812
Turned onto a rough trail heading west that came out at Bowman Hollow falls, this is the green dotted line. Too rough to be numbered, I guess.
50 yds after Bowman Hollow falls, the trail dumped us onto 123
We took 123 to Haw Creek Falls (red circle) , where we spent the night and were trapped behind the flood.

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Sounds like a great adventure . We rode some of that area and the OOAT back in November . Looking forward to getting back up there , preferably when the water is not too high .

June the 9th we were riding in the Ouachita mountains around Lake Winona . I think we did 40 miles or so . About a 50/50 mix of gravel roads and trail mix . Plenty of areas left to explore there . I'm hoping to spend a week there next time instead of just a day . We had a great time until the end of the day when the radiator exploded 😲

Now I'm looking forward to next time :)
 
Sounds like a great adventure . We rode some of that area and the OOAT back in November . Looking forward to getting back up there , preferably when the water is not too high .
Aside from the bridge being flooded beyond our comfort zone, all the water crossings were no problem. I fully expected that we would have to divert multiple times, but even the deepest crossing was pretty tame. Clear water & visible rocky bottom gives you a lot of confidence, too.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator