High-Steer vs Currectlynk

[wkelley70]

I recently purchased a 2006 LJ with a 4” or 4.5” lift with a high steer kit.

Is a high steer kit a good thing, or should I convert it to something like a Currectlync Steering system?

The reason I am asking is because the current wheels are on 1.5” non-hub-centric spacers (not adapters). I do not want to run spacers so I will either have to purchase new wheels with less backspace, or ditch the high-steer kit.



It is money either way (~$700 for wheels vs ~$1100 or more for Currectlync and other required parts), but which would be the best setup? The purpose of the Jeep is for street, overlanding and varied terrain BLM land.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Personally I'd do whatever it took to replace that hi-steer steering with bad geometry with the Currectlync. Hi-Steer is notorious for having bump-steer and a dead spot in the steering. There's nothing about a Hi-Lift steering kit that you need or want in your desired wheeling scenarios.

 

[Blackjack]

Do you know if the track bar was relocated with the high steer? If you are not sure post some pics up and we can help you understand what you have. If the track bar was relocated you will have to plan on addressing that as well if you want to go back to the haltenberger linkage like the Rock Jock.

 

[Chris]

Personally I'd do whatever it took to replace that hi-steer steering with bad geometry with the Currectlync. Hi-Steer is notorious for having bump-steer and a dead spot in the steering. There's nothing about a Hi-Lift steering kit that you need or want in your desired wheeling scenarios.

X2 to this

 

[wkelley70]

Here are some pictures if the track bar and other front end components.

 

[afusco1222]

If you go with the Currie kit, you're going to have to go back to the stock TJ track bar axle and frame mounts. Can you weld?

 

[wkelley70]

If you go with the Currie kit, you're going to have to go back to the stock TJ track bar axle and frame mounts. Can you weld?

I am more of a grinder than a welder, but I can make it stick. What needs to be welded and\or cut out to go back to stock?

 

[afusco1222]

Take a look at this famous picture. I don't know if you current setup took the stock track bar frame mount off or is just bolted over it. The axle bracket will have to be welded on. You are also going to need new steering knuckles. You may be better off just getting a new housing if you do not have too much into your current one (gears, lockers, etc). Edit: Picture is small but search TJ front end on google and it'll show up.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I am more of a grinder than a welder, but I can make it stick.

Same here.

 

[RubiconLJ]

Hi-Steer is notorious for having bump-steer and a dead spot in the steering.

Jerry, you want to elaborate on the "dead spot" in the steering? Just curious.

 

[Brianj5600]

@wkelley70 does the current steering have any bad characteristics? Are the brakes dual piston calipers?

 

[wkelley70]

@wkelley70 does the current steering have any bad characteristics? Are the brakes dual piston calipers?

I am not sure about the brakes, but the Jeep wanders on the road. I suspect that is due to the non hub-centric spacers, at least in part. I also need to check alignment and steering components. I do not want to run the spacers that the high-steer kit requires for the current wheels (even if the spacers are not causing the wander). This means either new wheels or ditching the high-steer kit.

In summary, I am trying to figure out the best way to ditch the wheel spacers and fix my steering wander.

I should add that my current wheels are 15x8 (4" backspace) with 33x12.5-15 tires. If I do end up keeping the high steer, I will have to go to 15x8 wheels with 3.5" backspace, or less.

 

[mrblaine]

Are the brakes dual piston calipers?

Highly unlikely. Possible, but not probable.

 

[Rickyd]

Jerry, you want to elaborate on the "dead spot" in the steering? Just curious.

Inverted t style hi steer tends to roll the tie rod before moving the knuckles.so you wind up moving the steering wheel without much input to the tires at first

 

[Brianj5600]

Inverted t style hi steer tends to roll the tie rod before moving the knuckles.so you wind up moving the steering wheel without much input to the tires at first

It's not an issue until the spacers on the TREs wear out. My main complaint was the how low the tie rod is.

 

[mrblaine]

It's not an issue until the spacers on the TREs wear out. My main complaint was the how low the tie rod is.

Only someone who doesn't understand steering axis inclination would say something like that.

 

[mrblaine]

Inverted t style hi steer tends to roll the tie rod before moving the knuckles.so you wind up moving the steering wheel without much input to the tires at first

Inverted T has the same problem whether it is mounted under the steering arms, over the steering arms, or pretty much any method you use to run it. It simply can't be otherwise and steering axis inclination fully dictates that there are no sound methods to limit the tie rod roll. If that could be done, it would be a stupidly simple matter to just get rid of the ball joint on the ends of the tie rod pins and go to a straight shaft and bearing like a hardened bolt and aluminum bronze bushing in a basic rod end blank.

The problem with doing it that way is as soon as SAI kicks in, the steering would lock right up. There has to be a method which allows for rotational misalignment to compensate for the steering arms only holding the tie rod parallel to the ground when both tires are straight ahead. As soon as they turn, one arm rises, the other lowers and that doesn't get less, it gets more and more until full lock which is why any attempt to trap a spacer between the body and steering arm is fully fucking stupid. You're just binding up the steering to run a shit steering set up, stop it.

 

[RubiconLJ]

To the OP, people have gotten a little far afield on you. Based on what you've indicated that the use of your TJ will be, your best bet is probably go with a Y-type steering linkage. You do not need a new knuckle to switch to a Y-type steering like one from Currie (though theirs is beefier and more expensive than you probably need)(see the last sentence of my post before you buy anything); you'll just abandon the upper Teraflex mounting point. If you were running 17" wheels, your clearance issue would be eliminated by removing the drag link from that upper mount, but with the 15" wheels you may need to do some grinding or even complete removal once you test fit the wheel without the spacer. If so, you could probably find someone to trade you a stock knuckle plus something on top for the Teraflex knuckle. Some of us with 5"+ of lift prefer to utilize one, but debating that is for another post, not here. You will probably need to address the clearance issue on those aftermarket sway-bar link mounts when the steering is cycled to full passenger turn; it looks like you will have an interference issue there. On a side note, PLEASE but a steering stop bolt back in whichever knuckle you use before you damage your steering box from over rotation; looks like the original owner removed at least the passenger side in an attempt to get more left turn. We can't see the driver side in your pics behind the tie-rod, but I'm guessing that side is missing too.

As far as your track bar goes, remember that whichever way you modify it, try to keep it as close to parallel with the new drag link angle. Your can remove the upper bolt-on track bar mount at the frame side to give you some additional angle. Hopefully the factory mounting hole is intact, but we'd need to see a side pic of the mount to judge if it's been drilled for a thru-bolt or has a tapered bolt adapter. Your axle side track bar mount has been welded over by the previous owner but you might be able to re-drill in the factory spot. If you do switch to a Y-type drag link, you'll want to make the track bar as long as possible while still keeping it parallel. You could Okie it, and drill a hole straight through the weld-on bracket at the axle side to change the mounting point while still using the track bar you have, but I wouldn't recommend it. The heim will no longer be in double sheer but the bolt will be, and for what your intended use is, that should be fine, but refer back to my previous statement.

If you decide to go with a Y-Type, you should read this thread before buying anything though:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/zj-steering-upgrade.11895/

 

[mrblaine]

You do not need a new knuckle to switch to a Y-type steering like one from Currie (though I think it's is overpriced and is being carried by their name)(see the last sentence of my post before you buy anything); you'll just abandon the upper Teraflex mounting point.

You tend to come across smarter than that, don't ruin it now.

Some of us with 5"+ of lift prefer to utilize one, but debating that is for another post, not here.

I have never understood why folks will tolerate a shorter than required trackbar when the very same folks will poke fun at a rig with short uppers and long lowers.

If you do switch to a Y-type drag link, you'll want to make the track bar as long as possible while still keeping it parallel.

Something you can't do with the Tera piece. Or you can but 99% won't.

 

[RubiconLJ]

It is money either way (~$700 for wheels vs ~$1100 or more for Currectlync and other required parts), but which would be the best setup? The purpose of the Jeep is for street, overlanding and varied terrain BLM land.

Blaine, the OP asked a question about his Jeep, not mine, not yours, not a buddies. Sounds like he's on a budget, and was asking for the best solution to allow him to safely drive it on the street, overlanding, and varied terrain BLM land. At no point did he include rock crawling. I agree with you that a Y-type steering linkage is probably the best solution for him, but the Currie is probably a little overkill for "his" needs. I'm not saying it's junk by any means, it's beefy as hell, I even had it on my LJ at one point, but I still think it's overpriced. Perhaps I could have phased that part better. I'll even edit my post to clarify.

I actually debated adding the sentence about preferring the Teraflex knuckle since I figured it might elicit such a response from you, but I was trying to emphasize for the OP that he could trade/sell it since for certain applications, some people would want it. He wouldn't be out money for a new knuckle if he needed to actually switch it out. (If you wish to debate the use of a Teraflex knuckle for high steer further, PM me; it doesn't belong on this thread since everyone has already established that he should ditch the high steer.)

If there's a valid reason why he can't use the Teraflex knuckle with a Y-type linkage, please post that. That part would actually be helpful....