Greasable vs non-greasable u-joints

[Tntitans21399]

I need to to replace my ujoints on my front drive shalf. I have a 05 4.0 dana 30 front. Reading online is the 2 near the transfer case the same and the one near the axle is different? I also see people saying the sealed ones are stronger. I drive through creeks and mud, so is a greasable or non-greasable better?

 

[JKP]

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/

You can look up the parts there.

I prefer sealed, but I don't submerge them for any length of time.

If you are going to submerge them all the time for extended periods, greaseable with marine grease is probably the way to go

 

[TJ4Jim]

I need to to replace my ujoints on my front drive shalf. I have a 05 4.0 dana 30 front. Reading online is the 2 near the transfer case the same and the one near the axle is different? I also see people saying the sealed ones are stronger. I drive through creeks and mud, so is a greasable or non-greasable better?

This thread covers just about everything.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-u-joints-come-on-the-tj.2438/

 

[Chris]

I prefer sealed u-joints.

 

[Tntitans21399]

Thank you

 

[Ashim]

I prefer greasable U-joints for offroad use. I also grease them regularly, especially after mud and water submersion. Haven't had any breakage issues.

 

[James9100]

Only get greaseable if you’re actually going to grease them. Personally I hate greasing. I regrettably put in greaseable ball joints because I was too impatient to order the sealed Spicers.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Sealed.

 

[OldBuzzard]

An excellent short description of greaseable vs non-greaseable u-joints, with a new section on centering balls, from Tom Wood's.
https://4xshaft.com/blogs/faq/greaseable-vs-non-greaseable-joints-which-is-better

 

[Brianj5600]

My problem is the front axle u-joints dry out and rust causes the need for replacement. I will be looking into u-joints with individual low profile needle zerks.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

My problem is the front axle u-joints dry out and rust causes the need for replacement. I will be looking into u-joints with individual low profile needle zerks.

Even if you can’t find u-joints with the needle zerks already installed, the needle zerks are an easy swap.

 

[Link]

I have a 2005 as well and just replaced all the front driveshaft U Joints. Did the rears a few months ago. You'll also want to replace the socket yoke assembly and dust seal. The part number should be Spicer 211544X and Spicer 2-86-418. Double check that to make sure they are the correct parts for your vehicle. Those are the parts I used.

I used sealed U joints. I'm sure greasable would be fine too. The U joints near the transfer case would be tough to get to in order to grease them so I think those should definitely be sealed. I also used some Belray high moly grease on the splined shaft.

When you take the caps off to install them in the shaft, check inside the U joint "post" for more grease. Most of mine were fine but a couple posts were a little light on grease. Add a little more if needed. Won't need much though.

 

[adventureboss]

I need to to replace my ujoints on my front drive shalf. I have a 05 4.0 dana 30 front. Reading online is the 2 near the transfer case the same and the one near the axle is different? I also see people saying the sealed ones are stronger. I drive through creeks and mud, so is a greasable or non-greasable better?

I've driven through rivers and mud occasionally with my sealed U joints and never had an issue but if you do it often greaseable is probably a better idea as long as you actually grease it.

 

[Head Lice]

Sealed for the axles . . . When greasing a U-joint, the grease will always go to the quadrant with the least resistance usually leaving the other three less/not lubed. Spend the extra $$ and get quality sealed U-joints for the axles . . . and what ever you want/afford for the others.

 

[Brianj5600]

I'm thinking something like this.