Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Gas gauge not working - and the light

bnbyrnes

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Oct 14, 2025
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So I have been looking everywhere for answers to why my gas gauge is not working and everyone always says replace the sending unit .. I get it but my gas gauge and the light that illuminates the gas gauge is also not working. The dash self makes the needle move. The rest of the dash is fine .. all light working and all the gauges are working. The Jeep runs .. OK .. lol it is a 97. I have disconnected the harness a few times and did the jumper thing to, no movement. Before I drop a couple hundred on a new unit is there anything else I can do? I just feel that the light also not working is something...

What do ya think?
 
Have you tried a cluster self test?

Holding down the trip reset and turning the ignition on? See if the fuel gauge needle sweeps?

-Mac
 
I replaced my fuel pump assembly with a Brute Power from Rock Auto. It was like $60, $80 shipped.

It's done two Rubicon Trail trips and Moab...and I did not trailer the rig...plus a lot of hard forest service road miles.

They're all made in China...lot of them are made in the same place and binned for quality.

-Mac
 
If you unplug the connector at the fuel tank (slide red tab, then press lever and pull apart) you could short the dark blue/light green and brown/yellow wires together. That should cause the fuel gauge to show full when the ignition is on.

If you have a multimeter you can check the resistance of the corresponding pins on the fuel pump side of the connector. The reading should be something like 270 ohms for an empty tank to 20 ohms for a full tank.
 
If you unplug the connector at the fuel tank (slide red tab, then press lever and pull apart) you could short the dark blue/light green and brown/yellow wires together. That should cause the fuel gauge to show full when the ignition is on.

If you have a multimeter you can check the resistance of the corresponding pins on the fuel pump side of the connector. The reading should be something like 270 ohms for an empty tank to 20 ohms for a full tank.

I pulled the plug and did the jumper check and nothing moved.
 
I replaced my fuel pump assembly with a Brute Power from Rock Auto. It was like $60, $80 shipped.

It's done two Rubicon Trail trips and Moab...and I did not trailer the rig...plus a lot of hard forest service road miles.

They're all made in China...lot of them are made in the same place and binned for quality.

-Mac

I hear ya ... was looking for Bosch our Delphi ... I guess a $60 one would answer a lot of questions.
 
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That would suggest a bad wire or splice along the way to the PCM, or bad connection at those wires at the PCM.

The brown/yellow is the sensor ground and the only one which would have splices on the way to the PCM.

I'm away from my computer now so can't say which connectors and pins to check at the PCM. Wire colours would be the same at the PCM though.

With those wires shorted at the pump connector, there should be continuity between the wires at the PCM connector. With the pump connector plugged in, the wires at the PCM should show between 20-270 ohms dependant on fuel level.
 
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Factory service manuals with the wiring diagrams and pin outs are in the resources section. Section 8w.


-Mac
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator