Front Pinion Seal Replacement

[grabeb]

It had a leak and I had it replaced at shop. Leaking again. Yes, I can take back and he'll fix. I feel a little bad because transmission also had a leak, we both thought was pan, so had him service it and replace. Then it started leaking again right after, so he pulled everything and re-sealed it only to figure out it was actually the shift linkage on top that had the drip. In his defense, it was pretty nasty under there due to the leak and all the grime from recent winter weather.

The bigger part is, finding time I can get it to shop as it's my college daughters car and she has crazy hours. So if fairly simple, I'd just tackle it. I have to work on it this weekend anyway for thermostat and maybe EVAP system.

My understanding is there is a backlash that 'needs set' if you do a pinion seal, but stuff I'm seeing online says to punch the nut and the shaft and maybe count threads then just spin off nut pull seal, replace and ensure the correct threads and that the punch marks align and good to go.

Is it that simple or do I have him replace. He's been pretty good to me over the years.

 

[Link]

The yoke may be grooved which can prevent a new seal from sealing well.

 

[grabeb]

The yoke may be grooved which can prevent a new seal from sealing well.

What's the fix there?

 

[Link]

What's the fix there?

Replace the yoke. If the seal is still in good shape then it probably doesn’t need to be replaced again but since it’s off, it wouldn’t hurt to put another new seal on there

 

[grabeb]

Replace the yoke. If the seal is still in good shape then it probably doesn’t need to be replaced again but since it’s off, it wouldn’t hurt to put another new seal on there

Can the yoke just be pulled and replaced without messing up the seal? Does it need pre-load or anything set? I guess I'm partly wondering, again, if have him do. The seal has only been on about 2 weeks.

 

[Link]

Lots of opinions on that and you’ll have to draw your own conclusions. There are some threads on here. Since the seal is only two weeks old, I think it’s likely the yoke is grooved. Happened to me. It’s not a big deal. I’d probably just replace the yoke and leave the seal alone.

 

[grabeb]

Lots of opinions on that and you’ll have to draw your own conclusions. There are some threads on here. Since the seal is only two weeks old, I think it’s likely the yoke is grooved. Happened to me. It’s not a big deal. I’d probably just replace the yoke and leave the seal alone.

Well, called mechanic he said find one and he'd slide it on quickly at no charge, but I'll pay him. So, now the question is what's the best place to get one? Again, 01 Sport, pretty sure it's the dana 30? That's what he also thought.

 

[Link]

Rock auto will have the right one. They will have different brands but I would only use the Dana one.

People do mod their Jeeps so I’d check the various threads around here to double check which front end you have. I think the front Dana 30 and the rear Dana 44 is the same part but don’t take my word for it because I’m not certain.

 

[grabeb]

I'm a bit lost on which to get. This is the Dana one, under straps. Then they have some that are u-bolt and say stronger.

I'll post pic of diff when back home.

 

[grabeb]

Here's the axle

 

[Ashim]

The yoke that uses straps appears to be correct. Nothing wrong with straps. U-bolt type can damage the u-joint caps if overtightened.

 

[Link]

Here's the axle

View attachment 591627

View attachment 591629

View attachment 591630

That's the one I would purchase.

 

[grabeb]

That's the one I would purchase.

Getting ready to place the order, noticed they also have one with 'Reverse rotation'. What's the deal with that? My searches say Dana made some axles with a pinion above axle centerline and that's the 'Reverse Rotation'. I don't see that here, just kind of curious?

 

[lBasket]

Getting ready to place the order, noticed they also have one with 'Reverse rotation'. What's the deal with that? My searches say Dana made some axles with a pinion above axle centerline and that's the 'Reverse Rotation'. I don't see that here, just kind of curious?

Yep high pinion axles are "reverse rotation". The Dana 30 in the TJ is low pinion/standard rotation. The Dana 30 from certain year XJs and I think YJs are high pinion/reverse rotation. You might see the term reverse cut too.

I didn't know the yokes were different between the two

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Getting ready to place the order, noticed they also have one with 'Reverse rotation'. What's the deal with that? My searches say Dana made some axles with a pinion above axle centerline and that's the 'Reverse Rotation'. I don't see that here, just kind of curious?

You are correct. Reverse rotation, or reverse cut gears are used in high pinion axles housings.

Edit: Trevor beat me to it.

 

[lBasket]

You are correct. Reverse rotation. Or reverse cut gears are used in high pinion axles housings.

 

[machoheadgames]

Backlash does not change from changing a pinion seal. What does change is pinion preload. On a low pinion Dana 30, which you have, the factory uses a crush sleeve between the pinion bearings. Tightening the pinion nut crushes that sleeve further until the bearings get closer and closer together and then seat into their races. You want to tighten the pinion nut to where the preload (measured rotational resistance of the pinion) is within spec of about 15-20 in-lbs.

You are supposed to replace the crush sleeve each time the pinion nut comes off so that you can recrush to spec. But, that's not a rule that 100% must be followed. It takes a lot of additional torque to continue crushing the old sleeve, so as long as you stop tightening the nut at a point where the pinion has good preload (typically the old preload (measured before disassembly) + about 5 extra inch pounds will do the job), then you should be good.

My guess as to why it keeps leaking is probably a lip on the yoke from the old seal, or maybe the mechanic isn't getting the preload right (too loose), but that's doubtful. Probably a lip on the yoke.

This should be the yoke you need: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p6..._1x_pinion_yoke_26_spline_fits_dana_30_s.html

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Backlash does not change from changing a pinion seal. What does change is pinion preload. On a low pinion Dana 30, which you have, the factory uses a crush sleeve between the pinion bearings. Tightening the pinion nut crushes that sleeve further until the bearings get closer and closer together and then seat into their races. You want to tighten the pinion nut to where the preload (measured rotational resistance of the pinion) is within spec of about 15-20 in-lbs.

You are supposed to replace the crush sleeve each time the pinion nut comes off so that you can recrush to spec. But, that's not a rule that 100% must be followed. It takes a lot of additional torque to continue crushing the old sleeve, so as long as you stop tightening the nut at a point where the pinion has good preload (typically the old preload (measured before disassembly) + about 5 extra inch pounds will do the job), then you should be good.

My guess as to why it keeps leaking is probably a lip on the yoke from the old seal, or maybe the mechanic isn't getting the preload right (too loose), but that's doubtful. Probably a lip on the yoke.

This should be the yoke you need: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p6..._1x_pinion_yoke_26_spline_fits_dana_30_s.html

I’m assuming here that the OP has not disassembled his diff to replace the pinion seal. You can’t properly measure pinion preload with the diff and gears installed. 15-20 inch pounds is the rotational target for just the pinion bearings - and without the seal, if memory serves.

If the yoke has not yet been removed, mark the pinion nut and the pinion shaft, count the exposed threads, and when reinstalling with the original crush sleeve, tighten the nut back into that position and then you are golden - or at least close enough.

This is the reason I prefer shims as opposed to a crush sleeve. More setup initially, but you can easily replace the yoke just by torqueing it back down to speck.

 

[grabeb]

Yep high pinion axles are "reverse rotation". The Dana 30 in the TJ is low pinion/standard rotation. The Dana 30 from certain year XJs and I think YJs are high pinion/reverse rotation. You might see the term reverse cut too.

I didn't know the yokes were different between the two

Thanks!

I was on my phone this weekend looking. Now at PC, I'm seeing a 3rd Dana Yoke. So I'm getting the 2435811x, with an outside Yoke Dimension of 3.625 and a 2480911x, with a dimension of 3.219. All else appears to be the same.

I guess I probably should wait until the Jeep is back home to double check that? No clue which would be factory, if there is 1 that is factory.

I thought I posted this earlier.

 

[grabeb]

Backlash does not change from changing a pinion seal. What does change is pinion preload. On a low pinion Dana 30, which you have, the factory uses a crush sleeve between the pinion bearings. Tightening the pinion nut crushes that sleeve further until the bearings get closer and closer together and then seat into their races. You want to tighten the pinion nut to where the preload (measured rotational resistance of the pinion) is within spec of about 15-20 in-lbs.

You are supposed to replace the crush sleeve each time the pinion nut comes off so that you can recrush to spec. But, that's not a rule that 100% must be followed. It takes a lot of additional torque to continue crushing the old sleeve, so as long as you stop tightening the nut at a point where the pinion has good preload (typically the old preload (measured before disassembly) + about 5 extra inch pounds will do the job), then you should be good.

My guess as to why it keeps leaking is probably a lip on the yoke from the old seal, or maybe the mechanic isn't getting the preload right (too loose), but that's doubtful. Probably a lip on the yoke.

This should be the yoke you need: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p6..._1x_pinion_yoke_26_spline_fits_dana_30_s.html

That's it from what I can tell as well. Thanks!