Dropped off my front driveshaft to get balanced

Vtx531

TJ Addict
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Nov 17, 2020
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Kalamazoo, MI
I just replaced spicer u joints and centering ball kit. I forgot to mark the yokes for alignment for who knows how long or how many times. The Jeep has been through a lot over the years so I decided it would be good to just start fresh with a balance job. Cost $100 and should be ready on Monday. I drove the Jeep without the front shaft and didn't notice any dramatic difference in vibrations so I'm not expecting much.

I had the wheels/tires balanced today too.

Anyone had any positive or negative experiences with driveshaft balancing?

Pic of the original balance weights on the shaft to compare with on Monday when it comes back:
IMG_6289.jpeg
 
If it's doing it without the driveshaft installed I would not expect any improvement, it's coming from somewhere else. I had to replace a bent driveshaft on the LJ, eliminated my (completely undrivable over 35 mph) issue.

Are you chasing a vibration? Here's how I identified the issue.

All four corners on jackstands. 2HI to the speed you identify - if that's good, it is not rear axle, rear DS, or engine/trans. 4HI to the speed you identify (this is where mine vibrated) - if that's good it is not t-case, front DS, or front axle related. If that all clears it is tires, broken belt/road force balance/out of round/bent wheel.

Be happy you weren't hunting this:

IMG_0878.jpg
 
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I'm always chasing a vibration. Just picky/sensitive. One major thing I need to do is replace the tcase output slip yoke because I think it is slightly bent.

Well here it is. Looks like the new weight is 90 degrees off from the previous ones. Haven't had a chance to install and drive it yet. I hope they knew what they were doing and I didn't make things worse.

IMG_6301.jpeg
 
My driveshaft was a little short after a tummy tuck and had what I would consider minor vibrations. Mostly a repeating thrumming at speeds over 55 mph. Didn't think much about it until my transfer case started hemorrhaging fluid driving back from Moab...spent a month taking things apart and back together again and determined it was a cracked front case next to the front output shaft. And my front pinion seal was leaking.

Don't think it takes much vibration to start wallering out seals and possibly causing worse issues.

-Mac
 
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I reinstalled the driveshaft and went for a drive. Initial impression was that it did seem smoother in the front end and steering wheel but then I was second guessing if it actually was or not. At least it didn't make things worse!
 
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More troubleshooting now...

Rear driveshaft has about .024" runout.
Rear tcase output shaft has ~.024" runout at the same position.

I removed the rear driveshaft and drove around and everything is pretty smooth. Think I need to finally pull the tcase and replace or install a new output shaft. I had suspicions about this issue before but I think it is now confirmed.

Anyone in Michigan or Northern Indiana have an original slip yoke output shaft collecting dust in the corner?

Mac I wonder if those "cracks" in the tailshaft housing are normal or maybe caused by the vibration like you said.

IMG_6306.jpeg
 
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More troubleshooting now...

Rear driveshaft has about .024" runout.
Rear tcase output shaft has ~.024" runout at the same position.

I removed the rear driveshaft and drove around and everything is pretty smooth. Think I need to finally pull the tcase and replace or install a new output shaft. I had suspicions about this issue before but I think it is now confirmed.

Anyone in Michigan or Northern Indiana have an original slip yoke output shaft collecting dust in the corner?

Mac I wonder if those "cracks" in the tailshaft housing are normal or maybe caused by the vibration like you said.

View attachment 645520

I have an output shaft that was pulled 10 years ago on a 70k mile jeep, but I am in NC.

Those casting marks look normal, engine cases, etc will have very similar markings. Was the jeep put in a situation that you thought may have bent output shaft?
 
Off topic. How do you like that Quiet-Flow muffler?

I like it a lot. All bolt together, quiet. Previously had a flowmaster and a magnaflow. I prefer this because it is quiet. I would get stock if I could but that's not an option these days. This was the closest I could find.

I have an output shaft that was pulled 10 years ago on a 70k mile jeep, but I am in NC.

Those casting marks look normal, engine cases, etc will have very similar markings. Was the jeep put in a situation that you thought may have bent output shaft?

Ah, too bad not local. Thanks for commenting on the casting marks.

I had an event where I was stuck REALLY bad in a mud/ice hole. On getting yanked out of it, the rear axle pinion yoke broke. I think that is when it happened. It was probably 20 years ago - back when I was locked on 33's. Can't even remember if that was the original Dana 35 or the current Dana 44 that I swapped in at some point and that I am still running.
 
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I tried knocking the shaft straight with a hammer but all it did was chip off pieces of the splines.. I would not recommend.
 
Off topic. How do you like that Quiet-Flow muffler?

I went from stock to a flowmaster 60 to one of these and also really like how quiet it is. Direct stock fit, stock quiet and a stainless steel body is a nice combo.

I don't mind a good exhaust note and have a great one on my car. But in the TJ, its right under the passenger seat with no insulation and can get old quickly on longer drives.
 
Sounds like a tough life for an output bearing :oops:

Good point. I need a new tcase or remove, rebuild anyway. I thought it was worth a try.

I put the slip yoke boot back on with two hose clamps oriented the same direction, opposite the high point of runout. It seemed to maybe improve. Added another hose clamp- seemed to improve more. Added another, seemed worse maybe so I took it off. Can't really tell though.

Realized my front axle ujoints are bad (autozone?) so I need to get those redone when I do the balljoints and go from there.