Finally I will be replacing the ball joints on my 05-LJ and wondered if I have to open the Diff to get the axle out?
Do I need to open the diff when replacing ball joints?
- Thread starter 05 Blue Unlimited
- Start date
Tim Redman
TJ Enthusiast
No. When you remove the axle hub assembly, the axle pulls out freely. It's not c-clipped like the Dana 35's.
(this is for the Dana 30; if you have a Dana 44 instead, I'd imagine that it's the same)
(this is for the Dana 30; if you have a Dana 44 instead, I'd imagine that it's the same)
Yes, it's the same for the Dana 44 too... no need to open the front differential to remove its axle shafts. That's only required with the rear c-clip Dana 35 axle or other c-clip axles like the Ford 8.8.
A good reason to open the diff at the same time would be to replace the inner axle seals. You would already be most of the way into that job.
If you are doing ball joints I would go ahead and replace hubs/wheel bearings while its all apart.
Good ideas but see I now fear the price tag of the "while you're there" more than the thought of changing out the ball joints. Just what my jeep needed, friends who would help me Just Empty Every Pocket.
Its just one of those things. IIRC I bought new timken bearings for $60/piece. You will have everything disconnected and unbolted so it makes sense. As to the seals, If my axle tube wasnt leaking, I would probably skip those. Just be careful when sliding the shaft back in as to not nick or punch the seal.
You would be removing the carrier. Don't mix up the shims or you will ruin the gears.
I recall using a pipe and a large socket to push the seals into place.
There's a nifty little specialty-dingus that pushes both of them right in at the same time with no muss or fuss; it's about $135, but that's actually pretty cheap for tools from the specialty-dingus world. That said, it was just yesterday evening when someone told me that a 36mm axle-nut socket is just about the perfect size for pressing the seals in from the outer ends of the tubes; I can't verify that fact, but I can verify the fact that I know where that guy lives should his info turn out to be bogus and thereby earn him a pummeling.
Since the 36mm was by far the largest socket I owned at the time, I suspect that was the one I used.
Tim Redman
TJ Enthusiast
I'd only replace the inner seals if the carrier is going to be out anyway which it won't be in this case. If you're not getting gear lube leakage out of the outer ends of the axle tubes you're good. It's only a straight-forward job if you've done it before and have the right tools.
Be careful putting the shafts back in so that you don't damage the inner seals.
While you have the shafts pulled, some gear oil may leak past the seals since the shafts aren't plugging it. If it's a small amount that leaks you may not see it until you have everything back together. Don't worry about it, but do fill the fluid back up through the fill plug on the diff cover.
If you don't need to measure volume but know the level of fluid for your diff, the new gear oil bags from Amsoil make this easy. Assuming that your gear setup is fine with full synthetic.
While you have the shafts pulled, some gear oil may leak past the seals since the shafts aren't plugging it. If it's a small amount that leaks you may not see it until you have everything back together. Don't worry about it, but do fill the fluid back up through the fill plug on the diff cover.
If you don't need to measure volume but know the level of fluid for your diff, the new gear oil bags from Amsoil make this easy. Assuming that your gear setup is fine with full synthetic.
I wouldn't assume anyone's gears would be fine using synthetic inside the diff. Not since it was learned that the gears run hotter with a synthetic gear lube. Hot enough to do damage? Maybe, maybe not. But it was hot enough to damage my new gears last year after filling the axles with synthetic after getting talked into it against my better judgement.
Thanks guys...a few have stated to be carefull when putting the shafts back in. By this I presume it is meant to not just jam them in or is there something else since I won't be able to see the seal. OR might it be a good time to change the lube and have the cover open? I bet it's original with 91K on it.
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