DIY big 7 upgrade - have some info, need some info

[DeltaNu1142]

Because I don’t think it’s been mentioned in this thread, and people are talking about the quality and source of various parts… ensure you’re not getting CCA (copper clad aluminum) cable. It’s cheaper, but that’s because, well—it’s aluminum—and it carries less current for the same gauge cable as OFC (oxygen free copper).

 

[CreepinDeth]

Because I don’t think it’s been mentioned in this thread, and people are talking about the quality and source of various parts… ensure you’re not getting CCA (copper clad aluminum) cable. It’s cheaper, but that’s because, well—it’s aluminum—and it carries less current for the same gauge cable as OFC (oxygen free copper).

CCA = ~60% of the load Vs OFC same gauge
So yes, be sure its not CCA

This is also why you need to be careful with low voltage household items, because the chinese like to use stranded aluminum wire and unless its a low impact load like LED….buyer beware

 

[Jack_Stefan]

Because I don’t think it’s been mentioned in this thread, and people are talking about the quality and source of various parts… ensure you’re not getting CCA (copper clad aluminum) cable. It’s cheaper, but that’s because, well—it’s aluminum—and it carries less current for the same gauge cable as OFC (oxygen free copper).

This was my biggest concern when buying premade battery cables. Once I found out you can get 10ft of 1gauge welding cable for 20$ or less I think I started buying all my own tools.

The cables you buy at local department stores are not good imo. Not that you can’t find em.

Now when I need cabling I just go to the junkyard and rip out a bunch of supplied cable from cars. I’ve got just about every gauge now and it’s all high quality wire

 

[OffroadTreks]

If you find yourself low on entertainment, join a few of the solar DIY groups and post up those crimps. In short order, there will be a herd of "experts" show up who are more than glad to tell you that you did it wrong. (the crimp, length of gap, lug style, COO, etc) I'm fine with what you're doing with 2 minor changes. I prefer tinned copper lugs to slow down corrosion and your heat shrink looks to be single wall non adhesive lined. The dual wall adhesive lined keeps out moisture better and the melted glue adds some strain relief to the connection. (personal preferences)

Yeah I have been. I am on 505 watts of solar. I think all of us do the "oh that guy can't be right" the first go around (the guy whose been doing it longer) and then hopefully we learn how wrong we are. Unless we are truly hard headed.

Always trying to learn. Now I like using marine grade adhesive shrink. I used audio shrink the first project I did. Some of it held up, others didn't. I really only have a few pictures of stuff. My first big learning was trying to string together a 400Ah solar setup. Still trying to learn. I've done more projects since this one, but my first foray was into solar for our RV.



But, it's def a skill to learn to do right and at least have some knowledge. I'm sure kits are quick and easy. But I want to learn where I can. Even if I am tarded and still have more to learn. Just gotta be willing to learn.

I prefer tinned copper lugs to slow down corrosion

This is something I only recently learned about. I used to avoid those until a few people pointed out they were better. I assumed (wrongly) that they were cheaper, thinking I was being smarter buying copper lugs.

Because I don’t think it’s been mentioned in this thread, and people are talking about the quality and source of various parts… ensure you’re not getting CCA (copper clad aluminum) cable. It’s cheaper, but that’s because, well—it’s aluminum—and it carries less current for the same gauge cable as OFC (oxygen free copper).

this is my biggest issue with Amazon - is the flood of cheap wires.

My personal go to sites:
https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/welding-cable-class-k
https://www.windynation.com/