Diff erosion

[Travis05Rubi]

I've noticed that my rear diff is getting eroded or shaved or ground or whatever term you prefer that describes what's happening. Seems I'm slowly wearing away at it from sliding along granite. You can see the bottom bolt has been affected and im almost sure thats where the slow drip is seeping from. I thought I'd toss the situation out to see if there are any good ideas out there. This condition developed over 5 or 6 Rubicon trips.

I can get a skid. I can just let it go and band aid it along until later. I can weld a sacrificial bead or two along the bottom. Thats the end of my ideas.

I dont think a new diff cover is wise, the cover will have an exposed edge at the bottom amd surely that will get peeled right off. I would love to find an nth degree skid. I can make a Metalcloak or Rough Country JK skid work. I'm a crap welder on plain metal but I have equipment, the cast iron part is my hold up.

Anyone have a similar problem they've solved?

 

[tworley]

 

[Travis05Rubi]

View attachment 647269

Im believing thats the route to go. But welding on cast iron? Can I use my 110 lincoln and just lay booger welds all over?

I'll probably just have a shop do it for me. Two things I don't do (or do well). Weld, change ring and pinion.

 

[tworley]

Im believing thats the route to go. But welding on cast iron? Can I use my 110 lincoln and just lay booger welds all over?

I'll probably just have a shop do it for me. Two things I don't do (or do well). Weld, change ring and pinion.

You could preheat it and use flux core wire and get a decent layer built up.

 

[macleanflood]

They make hard wire for making lines on buckets and excavation equipment.

-Mac

 

[MikeE024]

I've noticed that my rear diff is getting eroded or shaved or ground or whatever term you prefer that describes what's happening. Seems I'm slowly wearing away at it from sliding along granite. You can see the bottom bolt has been affected and im almost sure thats where the slow drip is seeping from. I thought I'd toss the situation out to see if there are any good ideas out there. This condition developed over 5 or 6 Rubicon trips.

I can get a skid. I can just let it go and band aid it along until later. I can weld a sacrificial bead or two along the bottom. Thats the end of my ideas.

I dont think a new diff cover is wise, the cover will have an exposed edge at the bottom amd surely that will get peeled right off. I would love to find an nth degree skid. I can make a Metalcloak or Rough Country JK skid work. I'm a crap welder on plain metal but I have equipment, the cast iron part is my hold up.

Anyone have a similar problem they've solved?

View attachment 647264

View attachment 647265

IMO, it doesn't look bad enough to worry about yet.

The cover sits pretty flush towards the bottom, but the sides need more wear (my apologies for being picky).

 

[Travis05Rubi]

IMO, it doesn't look bad enough to worry about yet.

The cover sits pretty flush towards the bottom, but the sides need more wear (my apologies for being picky).

That's the other half of my thinking. Let it be, perhaps replace the bottom bolt. I guess stopping the drip is part of the goal. Preventing it from getting worse is the rest of the idea.

 

[macleanflood]

I think I'm working towards on of these...Barnet Diff cover.

https://tandjperformance.com/product/part-bp-dt030/

-Mac

 

[jjvw]

That's the other half of my thinking. Let it be, perhaps replace the bottom bolt. I guess stopping the drip is part of the goal. Preventing it from getting worse is the rest of the idea.

If you are going to keep dragging the housing, weld facing to it to slow down the erosion.

 

[gasiorv]

When I had the Dana 44 in the rear I ended up first adding a plate and ended up eroding through that and ripping it off. I then just added some beads of weld with the mig and then hard faced with some Blue Demon Hard Face rods I got from Amazon. That worked until I got rid of the Dana 44 in the back. Before I ran the beads with the mig I did heat the diff up with a torch but not to preheat the diff but just to try and get as much gear oil burnt off as possible and to clean it, I cleaned it really well with brake clean but was afraid that there was still some gear oil in some scrapes that I just ruffed up and didn't grind down completely. I think building up the surface with the regular wire or rod first gives a good surface for the hard face to stick to.

The front Barnett diff cover that is referenced above is a good cover and provides the most clearance between the diff cover and the steering, but if you are in the rocks a lot the bolt holes on the lower side tend to get beat and crushed around the bolts and it makes it a bear to remove. Not bad if you are in the shop, but if you are trailside or back at camp trying to remove the cover, it is a real pain in the ass to deal with if cover is crushed around the bolt heads. Not saying the cover is bad, just something to consider.

 

[Travis05Rubi]

Lots of good ideas. My takeaway is sacrificial bead and probably a new cover. The Barnett model and Metalcloak have my eye due to the protected bolt heads. The welds may be necessary with a new cover anyway if there is an overhang from it over the pumpkin. Wouldn't want that to peel off so some buld up of metal would be dual purpose.

 

[DirtDawg]

My TJ came with a thick aftermarket steel Dana 44 rear cover (not nodular iron) and an OEM Dana 44 front cover. When I changed diff fluids, I filed off on a bevel angle all rock scraped metal that would interfere with bolt clamping forces, along with new Grade 8 hex head bolts. In the front, I reinstalled the OEM cover before deciding I "needed protection". I nearly ordered a Barnett cover (they still show Dana 44 in stock), however I read old posts here that the OEM donor cover tends to warp from flatness during the welding reinforcement, which then requires use of RTV sealant. Not for me, since I prefer Lube Locker gaskets and used those front and rear during that oil refresh. Instead, I installed Rock Hard's Dana 44 1/4" thick skid hat, along with new longer Grade 8 bolts to accommodate the total thickness.

 

[Travis05Rubi]

My TJ came with a thick aftermarket steel Dana 44 rear cover (not nodular iron) and an OEM Dana 44 front cover. When I changed diff fluids, I filed off on a bevel angle all rock scraped metal that would interfere with bolt clamping forces, along with new Grade 8 hex head bolts. In the front, I reinstalled the OEM cover before deciding I "needed protection". I nearly ordered a Barnett cover (they still show Dana 44 in stock), however I read old posts here that the OEM donor cover tends to warp from flatness during the welding reinforcement, which then requires use of RTV sealant. Not for me, since I prefer Lube Locker gaskets and used those front and rear during that oil refresh. Instead, I installed Rock Hard's Dana 44 1/4" thick skid hat, along with new longer Grade 8 bolts to accommodate the total thickness.

Rockhard is quality. I have their rear bumper tire carrier and such. That gaurd is choice no doubt but looks like it would require a cover with a flat mating surface as is found on most original style covers. My Riddler wouldn't accommodate that but if I had or get an oem style cover I would surely go with Rockhard. My bumper has seen some hits all the while I've loaded the carrier/rack with fuel, water, and plenty of goods. They definitely make things to last.