Crank, no start

[Mike_gee]

First, I'm sorry if I'm reposting a problem already discussed. I've searched, and I can't find the answer. Days of frustration...

Anyway, my 2002 jeep wrangler 4.0l manual TJ is not starting.

Symptoms:

-the engine cranks, but doesn't start. It doesn't even start for a second, then die, like a normal "wrong key" scenario"
-the no-key light is on the dash. It blinks a couple times, then chimes and stays solid.
-the low gas light is on (even though i have at least 4 gallons of gas in the tank)
-the check engine light is on-neither gas gauge and voltage gauge move, so matter what position the key is in

My code reading tool isn't even able to read the codes. It's saying "Link error".

What I've done:

- Checked fuses, none are blown.
- Checked battery, it's at 12.5v.
- I tested the relevant PCM for pins for voltage and continuity, and they seemed fine.
- I unplugged the skim and cleaned terminals, seemed find. The fact that the car isn't starting at all makes it seem like it's not to SKIM. I think a SKIM issue would usually allow the jeep to start for a second or two before dying.

I can't hear the fuel pump priming, but i've never been able to hear it before either. I'm actually not sure what they would ever sound like.

The vehicle has no aftermarket immobilizer, alarm, or remote start system installed.

I'm stumped.

Has anyone every encountered something like this?

 

[Mike_gee]

At this point, I suspect it's something to do with the PCM. But I'm really not certain.

Anyway, for some reason the no key light flashes, then stays on. But the vehicle won't even start for a second.

Bizzarre.

 

[hear]

For the fuel relay, hold your finger on the relay while someone else turns the key. Also check the ASD relay similarly. It should click on, and the back off about 2 seconds later if the car doesn’t start.

I’m wondering if your ASD is engaging at all?

Is that dash key light behavior different from when things were working ok?

 

[Mike_gee]

I'll need to wait until i can get someone over here to help me check those relays in the way you mentioned. I did switch them out for the horn relay, so I'm thinking it's not one of those.

I'm pretty sure (not certain) that typically that under normal operation the dash key light typically blinks once, then goes off. I know for certain that it doesn't remain on (like it's doing now).

 

[Mike_gee]

Another strange symptom is that the gas gauge seems to have stopped working. And the voltage gauge (which I think usually shows voltage when the ignition is in the "run" position) stays inert, then jumps to ~9.1v when the dash key light finally chimes and stays solid (even though I have good charge in my battery).

I'm stumped here.

 

[hear]

Not all gauges are powered/signaled through the same circuits, this is not uncommon.

But swapping the relays won’t prove that the ASD ever even came on, which may be part of the problem. I’ve never really had an ignition problem, but they seem to be frequent and kinda fits some of your symptoms.

 

[macleanflood]

Spray something flammable like carb cleaner or starting fluid in the throttle body and see if it runs a bit.

-Mac

 

[tiffanyluckadoo1]

Can we get an update which seems to be the trend hardly any one has replied to their solution. Thank You

 

[CharlesHS]

Inspect the wiring harness that runs from the ECU across the firewall and around the threaded head stud (right rear corner of the head).
Thoroughly inspect the split wire loom and wiring insulation for abrasions.
The threaded head stud is known to wear thru the split wire loom and wiring harness insulation causing the ECU communications to short to ground.
Lack of communications between the ECU and sensors will cause the engine to either sputter and stall OR not run at all depending on the severity of the damaged wiring in the harness.
I installed a used spark plug boot so that this problem cannot exist.

 

[Larry L TJ]

I did not see where you checked for spark coming out of the distributor. A bad crankshaft position sensor will crank but not start. No fuel-to-fuel rail?

 

[tiffanyluckadoo1]

Inspect the wiring harness that runs from the ECU across the firewall and around the threaded head stud (right rear corner of the head).
Thoroughly inspect the split wire loom and wiring insulation for abrasions.
The threaded head stud is known to wear thru the split wire loom and wiring harness insulation causing the ECU communications to short to ground.
Lack of communications between the ECU and sensors will cause the engine to either sputter and stall OR not run at all depending on the severity of the damaged wiring in the harness.
I installed a used spark plug boot so that this problem cannot exist.

Thank you next day off will do

 

[Mike_gee]

Just had the Jeep towed to a mechanic because my dumb ass couldn't figure out the issue.