Could use a little help

[Rustee]

I used to own a 91 YJ 8 or so years ago and that was my first jeep. I sold it due to moving to Idaho and having to travel there, it was too cold. I just moved back home to South Carolina and I purchased a 2000 Wrangler TJ Sport-Chili Pepper Edition. The Jeep has a few issues but I ended up only paying $2200 for it and it was originally listed for $6500. I'm still not sure if I got a deal or not because I'm not sure if the engine is gone and needs replacing.

Issues:
1. There is a rattle on the driver side near the back of the engine. At first startup you have to listen for it but as it gets warmed up it becomes louder. Press the accelerator and gets even louder.
2. Oil appears a little milky and there's sweat/water coming from the tailpipe for a little bit of time when it's first cranked and running. (head gasket I assume)
3. The seller told me that just that week it began to lock up the rear brakes and maybe wasn't breaking until they locked up. Said he almost ran it into his house. He thinks it's the proportioning valve...not sure.

Do any of these sound familiar, look related or obvious issues that I'm not aware of? I bought the jeep with thought of most likely having to swap the motor out in mind.

161k miles and I couldn't find any rust anywhere on the jeep, nothing underneath or in the cab. The seller mentioned that he has known the jeep for over 15 years but has only owned it for the past year. The previous owners babied it supposedly and kept it under a carport. New top also

 

[Rustee]

And by rattle in the engine I mean...like a ticking that grows into a tapping, and when the gas is pressed sounds almost like a rattle.

 

[machoheadgames]

My guess is it has a broken piston skirt.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

I think both broken piston skirts and a bad head gasket need to be addressed. You can drop the oil pan to inspect the back of the skirts to confirm. You have to pull the head anyways to replace the pistons, so that head gasket leak will be addressed.

If it were mine considering the purchase price savings, I'd consider doing an Edelbrock head at the same time to gain 25 or so hp.

 

[cpwolf]

So welcome to the forum, and that TJ Color is awesome! Looks amazing.

If you got the TJ with zero rust for $2200, you got a deal. A lot of guys would say get a scope in the frame rails to make sure it’s not rotting inside out, ha.

If it’s what is being suggested, then an engine swap is probably not needed so even better.

Only suggestion, put the issue in the title of your thread, not just need help, you’ll get more eyes.

 

[Rustee]

I think both broken piston skirts and a bad head gasket need to be addressed. You can drop the oil pan to inspect the back of the skirts to confirm. You have to pull the head anyways to replace the pistons, so that head gasket leak will be addressed.

If it were mine considering the purchase price savings, I'd consider doing an Edelbrock head at the same time to gain 25 or so hp.

Can those piston skirts be replaced?

My guess is it has a broken piston skirt.

Can a broken piston skirt just be replaced by

My guess is it has a broken piston skirt.

So can I just replace the piston which replaces the skirt, right?

 

[Rustee]

I think both broken piston skirts and a bad head gasket need to be addressed. You can drop the oil pan to inspect the back of the skirts to confirm. You have to pull the head anyways to replace the pistons, so that head gasket leak will be addressed.

If it were mine considering the purchase price savings, I'd consider doing an Edelbrock head at the same time to gain 25 or so hp.

I'm gonna do a compression test first even though I know a bad head gasket will throw that off. Drop the oil pan and start taking the top off to see if I can identify the issue. As long as the cylinder walls are good, I'll just replace the parts, new head gasket, and slap it all back on.

 

[B1Toad]

2. Oil appears a little milky and there's sweat/water coming from the tailpipe for a little bit of time when it's first cranked and running. (head gasket I assume)

Or a cracked head. You are right in the years for the notorious weak head, 2000 and 2001. BTDT. To check, remove valve cover and pressurize the cooling system, then carefully examine the area on the head right below where the oil fill would be. Look for evidence of a track/trail and watch for coolant droplets to form when the system is under pressure. An exhaust gas test won't be conclusive as the crack doesn't always lead to the combustion chamber.

The weak heads were updated with a new head that says TUPY right in the middle but if yours is the original non-TUPY and cracked the best option today is a new Clearwater head IMHO.

 

[Ashim]

As above, sounds like cracked head. If run like this for a long time with coolant in oil, bearings are likely shot. So possibly a new engine is in the works.

 

[Rustee]

Or a cracked head. You are right in the years for the notorious weak head, 2000 and 2001. BTDT. To check, remove valve cover and pressurize the cooling system, then carefully examine the area on the head right below where the oil fill would be. Look for evidence of a track/trail and watch for coolant droplets to form when the system is under pressure. An exhaust gas test won't be conclusive as the crack doesn't always lead to the combustion chamber.

The weak heads were updated with a new head that says TUPY right in the middle but if yours is the original non-TUPY and cracked the best option today is a new Clearwater head IMHO.

Yep okay that makes sense. Where would I find a Clearwater head? And thank you man, this helps.

 

[Rustee]

As above, sounds like cracked head. If run like this for a long time with coolant in oil, bearings are likely shot. So possibly a new engine is in the works.

I'm afraid of this. So even if I identify the head is cracked, I still need to check the bearings by dropping the oil pan right? Which I can inspect the piston skirts at that time also, I think. Sorry guys I'm not a mechanic but I did do a similar job on my last jeep around 10 years ago to replace a broken ring. It was a 38 hour job for me and it was the 2.5L. Also was a YJ...this time TJ 4.0...so at least it's a little more worth the trouble I guess lol

 

[cliffish]

Yep okay that makes sense. Where would I find a Clearwater head? And thank you man, this helps.

https://www.cylinder-heads.com/?gad...HT76cDTECbF9ksFBE1vz9UG21BJ8JAsxoC_2kQAvD_BwE

10% off now

 

[Rustee]

As above, sounds like cracked head. If run like this for a long time with coolant in oil, bearings are likely shot. So possibly a new engine is in the works.

Might as well tear it apart a little and inspect but you may be right. Hope not but could be leaning more towards that.

 

[AndyG]

For 2200.00 in, it’s all gonna be ok.

 

[Rustee]

https://www.cylinder-heads.com/?gad...HT76cDTECbF9ksFBE1vz9UG21BJ8JAsxoC_2kQAvD_BwE

10% off now

Sweet! Thank you

For 2200.00 in, it’s all gonna be ok.

Yeah man that's how I feel about it too after going down and seeing it again today, even drove it through the yard lol. I love that jeep dude! It's a really sweet jeep aside from those motor issues. It has Pro Comp rims, 33's, widow maker jack, Smitty Built winch and one year old top that looks pretty new, terra something lift (I think), Nice Kenwood BT stereo, CB, no rust, and three rubber ducks lol oh and the aftermarket side step (I forget what you call those) rocker panel step side thing lol idk. My memory is crap lately

 

[Rustee]

So welcome to the forum, and that TJ Colornos awesome! Looks amazing.

If you got the TJ with zero rust for $2200, you got a deal. A lot of guys would say get a scope in the frame rails to make sure it’s not rotting inside out, ha.

If it’s what is being suggested, then an engine swap is probably not needed so even better.

Only suggestion, put the issue in the title of your thread, not just need help, you’ll get more eyes.

Will do, thank you. I feel like I got a deal but now I feel like I might need to see the inide of the frame first too lol damnit!

 

[MountaineerTom]

That’s a good price, even if you have to do some engine work, but I don’t know about it being babied. By the looks of that, I’d definitely scope the frame and see if it looks like that in there. I’d drill some drain holes in the frame and wash it out with a water hose at every opening you can find.

I live in SC too and that looks like the sandy/muddy mess that most mud holes have.

 

[Rustee]

That’s a good price, even if you have to do some engine work, but I don’t know about it being babied. By the looks of that, I’d definitely scope the frame and see if it looks like that in there. I’d drill some drain holes in the frame and wash it out with a water hose at every opening you can find.

I live in SC too and that looks like the sandy/muddy mess that most mud holes have.

View attachment 656745

 

[Rustee]

Yeah the guy said he was driving it through his fields to do something with the cows he had. He said he hadn't been off roading with it and that he knew the owners of it for 15 years before he got it a year ago. He seemed like a real straight up guy but who knows. I'm def gonna inspect further but I did look at some of the holes in the frame already and they seemed solid

 

[Rustee]

That’s a good price, even if you have to do some engine work, but I don’t know about it being babied. By the looks of that, I’d definitely scope the frame and see if it looks like that in there. I’d drill some drain holes in the frame and wash it out with a water hose at every opening you can find.

I live in SC too and that looks like the sandy/muddy mess that most mud holes have.

View attachment 656745

Where would you drill the holes?