Control Arms for 1.5" Lift

[OldBuzzard]

I'm planning to lift my 2005 TJ Unlimited by about 1.5" to 2", keeping my current 31" tires. I'll probably use the H&R 1" springs and a small spacer. And track bars and shocks and swaybar links, of course. I've been reading the forum, following some of the builds. But I still have this question:

Some folks say a small lift like this does not need adjustable lower control arms. Others say that even this shallow lift does. My 2005 TJ does not have lower control arm cam bolts for caster adjustment, but I could add them. For this low lift, would I get enough adjustment range, or do I really need adjustable control arms? How much does caster (and pinion angle, too) change with a small lift?

Or if this has already been covered, please steer me in the right direction, since I haven't found this particular answer yet.

And why did Jeep stop using cam bolts on the later TJs?

Thanks.

 

[pagrey]

Every Jeep really is different, you should try and see where you are. If you want to go crazy measure your drive line angles now so you have a baseline. If you get vibes there are several options, not just control arms.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The OE factory control arms are absolutely 100% fine for a 2" suspension lift. They're actually better at twisting and flex on the trail than many aftermarket arms are. They may look cheaply made with their stamped steel but they're not. A good engineer would call the design 'elegant'.

 

[OldBuzzard]

Thanks, pagrey and Jerry. What about caster adjustment? It seems like this short lift doesn't change the angle much, but I haven't dug out the protractor and calculator yet. I will, because that's half the fun of a build, but what do you think? Will I likely need to add cam bolts, or could it still be within spec?

 

[pagrey]

Don't worry too much about caster unless you find you have return to center issues. Mine was fine on 1" but it's better with adjustable arms, just don't get cheap ones. I'd get an inexpensive angle finder. I use a digital one and it makes everything easy.

Edit: other than toe forget about spec, just get it to drive nicely in my opinion

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Thanks, pagrey and Jerry. What about caster adjustment? It seems like this short lift doesn't change the angle much, but I haven't dug out the protractor and calculator yet. I will, because that's half the fun of a build, but what do you think? Will I likely need to add cam bolts, or could it still be within spec?

Your caster angle will still be perfectly fine for any tire size you can fit under a 2" suspension lift.

 

[06lj]

As stated above the stock arms are fine. You might want to give a close inspection to the bushings if they are the originals. Replacement arms are relatively cheap. If you keep your originals and install some taller spring loosen the control arm bolts an re-torque them at ride height when your finished.

 

[pagrey]

If you have an 05 with original arms I can save you the trouble, they are bad. Clevite doesn't last 16 years.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

If you have an 05 with original arms I can save you the trouble, they are bad. Clevite doesn't last 16 years.

Clevite is simply a brand name for rubber and that's what all of the 97-06 TJ control arm bushings were made from. The 25 year old rubber body mounts on a 1973 CJ-5 I helped to rebuild in 1998-99 were still in outstanding condition. So good the owner elected to continue using them though it was going through a complete rebuild to make it like new when he bought it.

Can clevite/rubber fail? Yes, but it has a longer life than many credit it with.

 

[pagrey]

That's good to know. I have trouble telling if the bushings are good or bad by appearance or prying or any other test so often I suggest just replacing them if they are original. They aren't too expensive and make most Jeeps drive like new. I don't have any CJ experience but I see what you are saying.

 

[OldBuzzard]

The previous owner records don't show any bushing work. I can't tell for sure, but the bushings look somewhat cracked and ugly on the edges. The Jeep steers well and feels tight, no wobbles, no clunking. So they're probably not terrible. But I was thinking about replacing the bushings anyway. I do my own wrenching, and have a hydraulic press. Got any particular brand or material suggestions for me?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The bushings are not easily removed/replaced, you'd likely need a torch. You could buy some aftermarket OEM-style replacement arms like from Detroit Axle, Moog, Omix-Ada etc. inexpensively. Considering the factory arm bushings aren't easily replaced I'd consider replacing the arms when needed.

 

[OldBuzzard]

Ahh, that's good to know. Thanks, Jerry

 

[06lj]

I agree with the Jerry. You'll have enough fun with the front upper bushings on the axle. They aren't the worst job but are just stubborn enough to make it a less than enjoyable task.