Car pics too cool not to share

[srimes]

I'm thinking that the periods between oil changes was somewhat vast. These guys are not the original owners, and they swear that they keep up with the oil changes, but I've seen enough "Just Rolled In" YouTube videos to know that statement often is the "go-to" defense of the guilty. As far as what to use, I'm sold on using ATF for the flushing of the system. I may go so far as to pop the valve cover and manually clean what I can get to. I'm also going to look into how difficult it would be to drop the oil pan on this thing. If it's a reasonable proposition to do so, I may very well do that, as well. The owners don't "need" this vehicle, as it's a third car for them, so I may be able to hold onto it for a while and get all this stuff done in short order. I need to talk with them about it first, however.

I do appreciate all the input, folks. So far what I've gotten out of all this is to do an ATF flush on a 460, and then drop it in the Honda Element.

No, wait...that's not it...

The safest method is to stick with basic API-graded engine oil, which is loaded with detergents, and change it more frequently. Just look at the dipstick regularly and when the oil turns dark it's time to change.

Engine flush is aggressive, and there are risks, but it does work. There's a million and one options and the primary goal of each is to get your money. They work but aren't that different from kerosene or diesel.

If doing more frequent oil changes isn't working fast enough for you, adding a cup or 2 of diesel shortly before each change will speed it up.

 

[Squatch]

The safest method is to stick with basic API-graded engine oil, which is loaded with detergents, and change it more frequently. Just look at the dipstick regularly and when the oil turns dark it's time to change.

Engine flush is aggressive, and there are risks, but it does work. There's a million and one options and the primary goal of each is to get your money. They work but aren't that different from kerosene or diesel.

If doing more frequent oil changes isn't working fast enough for you, adding a cup or 2 of diesel shortly before each change will speed it up.

Part of the problem with going that route (in this case, I mean) is that they don't put a lot of miles on it, as he's partially disabled, and elderly. Yet in the two months since I last replaced the screen, there's been enough crap floating in the oil system to plug the screen again. I would rather be fairly aggressive with the flush while it's in my possession, and be able to return it to them with some confidence that it's good to go. Also, the oil showing on the dipstick looks as clean as the day I put it in, and offers no indication that there's enough contamination in it to plug the spool valve's screen. That's why I was caught off guard by what I found when I removed the spool valve.

 

[speeding_infraction]

For safety. What about those light-weight Coyotes?

A Honda element with a 5.0 coyote swap would be extremely fkn cool

 

[cliffish]

I don't know which specific engine you're working on, but if your having sludge issues like that, I think it's safe to assume this is a poorly maintained vehicle. Going with that assumption and the fact that you state you want to clean it out, here's my suggestions. Don't get too aggressive, too fast. Do this in stages so that you don't dislodge anything big and plug up some tiny passage. Do an oil change with each cleaning cycle. I recommend cutting the filter open to see what's happening inside. You can let it idle, or drive it very gently and slowly for a few miles (my preferred since the RPM go up and down), just let it get up to temp before draining. After you do a few of those, switch to Valvoline Restore and Protect oil in a 5-20 or 5-30, which has extra cleaning agents in it. I've been running it in all of my modern vehicles for a while now and it's been doing work in my truck (HEMI) and Jeep (4.0). IDK why, but the R&P seems to be dissolving some gunk inside of those two specifically, but my Hondas seem to just run clean. Very different engines/lives, but the truck and Jeep have been babied with short oil change intervals, so IDK why those two have so much crap to dissolve compared to my Hondas.

For the cleaning product, I say skip the diesel for the same reason the others have. I have used Seafoam before, but I don't recommend it since it has a very low boil-off temp of 150-160F, which means it won't be in the engine very long. I've personally never used ATF, but I know lots of guys who have, and some of those guys worked professionally as mechanics. I have used "flush" products, and they appeared to work. ATF or a "flush" product are my recommendations.

I do remember most of the of the off the shelf "engine flushes" were mostly kerosene back in the day, used them every time I bought a used vehicle with no ill effects (affects???).

I have switched to Valvoline Restore and Protect oil for my 2016 Outback with a 161K on it. That engine is notoriously noisy and that oil does quiet it down a good bit.

 

[BlueC]

Also, the oil showing on the dipstick looks as clean as the day I put it in, and offers no indication that there's enough contamination in it to plug the spool valve's screen. That's why I was caught off guard by what I found when I removed the spool valve.

That's odd. I'm having a hard time imagining what might allow that. Which engine is this, an R or a K? I wonder if it has a built-in filter bypass that is stuck in bypass mode and not filtering the oil.

 

[BlueC]

Engine flush is aggressive, and there are risks, but it does work.

The first time I ever seen an engine flush used was one of those "happy accidents". I was working at a quick change shop and someone put the wrong weight oil in a customers vehicle. The manager decided instead of just wasting the fresh oil/filter that he'd offer the flush service using Prestone product, so it went in with fresh oil/filter. We let it sit there running for 10-15 minutes then dropped it just to find midnight black oil coming out. I was surprised.

 

[srimes]

Part of the problem with going that route (in this case, I mean) is that they don't put a lot of miles on it, as he's partially disabled, and elderly. Yet in the two months since I last replaced the screen, there's been enough crap floating in the oil system to plug the screen again. I would rather be fairly aggressive with the flush while it's in my possession, and be able to return it to them with some confidence that it's good to go. Also, the oil showing on the dipstick looks as clean as the day I put it in, and offers no indication that there's enough contamination in it to plug the spool valve's screen. That's why I was caught off guard by what I found when I removed the spool valve.

In that case I'd be aggressive and go old-school flush. With the understanding the engine is already on the edge of failing and a flush will either help or push it over the "not worth messing with" cliff.

 

[cliffish]

In that case I'd be aggressive and go old-school flush. With the understanding the engine is already on the edge of failing and a flush will either help or push it over the "not worth messing with" cliff.

I might do that if it was my car, this is a neighbors and it would put @Squatch in a difficult spot if it blew up?

 

[BlueC]

I have switched to Valvoline Restore and Protect oil for my 2016 Outback with a 161K on it. That engine is notoriously noisy and that oil does quiet it down a good bit.

It's interesting. I switched to R&P in all of my modern vehicles, but before that I used Valvoline synthetic. All vehicles got the same oil and filter brands. My Hondas are driven daily and are maintained on the factory schedule, with runs around 7000 mile oil change. All are just golden oil stained inside, and the oil comes out a dark/dirty brown. My Jeep and truck on the other hand are rarely driven and I change oil in them every 2,500. The oil in them comes out darker in that shorter interval. My truck has always had a rolling rattle sound at idle. Since switching to R&P it has gotten better, then not so much. Etherway the R&P seem to be doing something extra in the HEMI and 4.0. I have some samples that I need to send out and see what blackstone says is happening.

 

[BlueC]

In that case I'd be aggressive and go old-school flush. With the understanding the engine is already on the edge of failing and a flush will either help or push it over the "not worth messing with" cliff.

I don't think I'd treat it as if it's about dead. It'd be a shame to wipe out good bearings in an otherwise healthy engine just trying to clean things out. Even with poor maintenance the engine is likely still good.

 

[srimes]

I might do that if it was my car, this is a neighbors and it would put @Squatch in a difficult spot if it blew up?

I'd be very clear about the risk, and the decision is on the owner. No matter what route he takes there's a good chance it will need more attention soon. As I said, the safest option is more oil changes and to keep changing the screen when it plugs. I don't know how hard that is, and Squatch can decide how many times he's willing to do that.

260k miles is getting up there. An engine flush won't wipe the bearings unless you do something crazy like run way too much solvent at once. The risk is breaking gunk free to plug something up, and you can't really predict what happens there.

 

[srimes]

How it feels snow wheeling in the TJ when I get over 25!

https://twitter.com/x/status/2008204299009200342

 

[chili_pepper]

How it feels snow wheeling in the TJ when I get over 25!

https://twitter.com/x/status/2008204299009200342

Typical grocery run in Finland.

 

[Zorba]

I don't know which specific engine you're working on, but if your having sludge issues like that, I think it's safe to assume this is a poorly maintained vehicle.

"Penzoil motor"

 

[BlueC]

How it feels snow wheeling in the TJ when I get over 25!

https://twitter.com/x/status/2008204299009200342

A great aunt of mine used to drive just like that when Walmart, Belks or K-Mart had a big sale going. She drove a mid '80s Grand Am back then and once hit a railroad crossing fast enough to get some air, enough to bust the oil pan when she came down. She didn't make the sale that day.

 

[BlueC]

"Penzoil motor"

Years ago, and old engine builder I knew told me that he could tell when an engine had been running Quaker State multigrade oil (in the '60-70s). He said when you'd pull them apart the inside would be covered in a yellow paraffin type wax layer.

 

[Squatch]

That's odd. I'm having a hard time imagining what might allow that. Which engine is this, an R or a K? I wonder if it has a built-in filter bypass that is stuck in bypass mode and not filtering the oil.

The engine is the K-series. I'm not familiar with a filter bypass. Never realized that was a thing, to be honest, though I guess if it was there to save the engine in the case of a seriously plugged filter, that would make sense. However, if it's stuck open, then did it do so because of the contamination? Sounds like a "Which came first, the chicken or the egg?" situation to me.

 

[Squatch]

I might do that if it was my car, this is a neighbors and it would put @Squatch in a difficult spot if it blew up?

It would. I guess I would be inclined to let them make the decision on how they want to approach this. I'm not charging them anything for any of this, beyond parts and supplies. I'm getting quite proficient at removing the spool valve and cleaning the screen. If he wants to do a flush (or many) in a less aggressive manner, I'm fine with helping him out for as long as it takes. I just generally treat all my repairs as if it were my own vehicle, and that's where I came up with the determination that I'd just do a more aggressive flush (or two...or three...), all the while monitoring the situation closely. I really am considering dropping the pan and cleaning everything out, including the pick-up tube's screen.

 

[Squatch]

How it feels snow wheeling in the TJ when I get over 25!

https://twitter.com/x/status/2008204299009200342

That's how I feel when I'm the passenger of any car my wife is driving. She complains that I drive too slow. No, I just drive like I'm the guy who's going to have to do any repairs on the vehicle. Coincidentally, she also drives like I'm the guy who's going to have to do any repairs on the vehicle!

 

[BlueC]

I'm not familiar with a filter bypass. Never realized that was a thing, to be honest, though I guess if it was there to save the engine in the case of a seriously plugged filter, that would make sense.

Most are built into the filter itself, but some are built into the housing, and they do just what you said. A quick search and it looks like a Honda K uses the typical in-filter bypass valve, so I doubt that is an issue for you. If you cut open the filter you'll find an assembly something like below.