Building Homer (2005 TJ Build Thread)

Does this mean a kit for this might end up on your store?

No reason for it to at this point. If I get enough folks who ask for them, then maybe. As of now, a note beforehand will get the right parts put into the tail light hardware kit and the light housings slightly modified to allow them to work. The stock hole diameter for 12-24 is .228, 6 mm is larger at .259 so we'd drill them out larger to work.

I need to see how the countersink angle is working. The stock ones are 82 degree and the metric are 90. Not the end of the world for tail lights, but it does offend my sensibilities about how things need to be done.
 
Drilled holes for the dash switch panel & interior upgrades, including radio.

Measure twice, I did not... Hence the bad spot for the hole with the plug.

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Love this deburring tool!

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2XR4P2?tag=wranglerorg-20

Just be sure to get this set of bits for blind holes:

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ND82T96?tag=wranglerorg-20

3D printed some paint stirrers - scale down a mixer for air brushing.

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Realized shaking wasn't going to work for the metallic paint. A lot settled to the bottom:

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Mixed:

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Looks like my firewall.... I've got holes I'm not using anymore due to 3 different engines & intakes and all the other things I'd planned that didn't work out...
 
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Ran some wires for the amp:

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Pulled loom on the cable because it rides over/against the airbag module so I don't want it rubbing on that and potentially arching to it over time...

Ground:

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Used Fusion 360 to mock up the Jeep Cables' 'Battery to Alternator' fuse and the amp fuse.

Fuse Mounting Render 1.jpg


Fuse Mounting Render 2.jpg


Design of the plate:

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This was the largest print I've done in the printer to date. I had to position it diagonal:

Fuse Mounting Print.jpg


Mocked up:

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I think there was some cool spots in the front corner of the printer because it was somewhat delaminated/deformed:

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ABS may work in some underhood applications (coolest spots in the engine bay) - but since this is holding fuses, I can't have it melt/delaminate and be flopping around the engine bay.
I mostly wanted to test out the print quality on this as it's the largest print I've done and want to do more ABS-GF prints, so a good test at only a couple bucks of material.

So I'll be going to Send-Cut-Send once I test-fit the part.

Where I'll test fit it:

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Also trimmed off the new fuse box plastic to fully close:

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Looks like my firewall.... I've got holes I'm not using anymore due to 3 different engines & intakes and all the other things I'd planned that didn't work out...

I can only imagine with all the mods/changes/upgrades you've been go through!

It was a tough decision to go for the drill but I didn't want to run all the wires from the fuse panel, across the engine bay to the driver side (more entry holes), and the back to the center stack of the dash. Basically cut 6-8' of cable off each run this way (can go smaller gauge due to shorter run).

@mrblaine recommended this spot and he's right on that it dumps into a perfect void in the dash where there is a pocket above the HVAC box. Hard to get to with you hand but I could reach in blind and move the wire as needed (will be helpful as I run more wires) - view port is only big enough for hand or visibility.
 
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Tied out a metal port for the breather with the nut on the outside, per @Rickyd's advice.

OEM tube is thick!

PXL_20250408_021405765.jpg


Tried to bent the washers to meet the curvature the best I could with the tools I could think to use (vice and a hammer... — I tried a tube and hammer, but I couldn't get a good grip on the washer).

I cut off the inner barb and trimmed down the hex top & bottom to get it closer to the washer.

Inside (couple reference marks to make sure it was facing the way I wanted after modding the hex head):

PXL_20250406_014932449.jpg


Exterior:

PXL_20250406_014941915.jpg


But I don't have enough thread engagement:

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Tough to tell in the pics, but I probably only have 1-1.5 turns of a thread engaged. Lots still visible. It's especially dark because of blue lock-tite.

I think my solution it to flush the exterior washer. So I'll ground down the exterior plastic to give a surface like this:

Intake.jpg


[And yes - I am busting out all the engineering/design tools! 3D CAD above for the fuse mounting plate — MS Paint here. Only the best design tools for this Jeep! :ROFLMAO: ]
 
@mrblaine recommended this spot and he's right on that it dumps into a perfect void in the dash where there is a pocket above the HVAC box. Hard to get to with you hand but I could reach in blind and move the wire as needed (will be helpful as I run more wires) - view port is only big enough for hand or visibility.
It is a ridiculously good spot unless you have more wires and know where to get special grommets.

DSC03458.JPG
 
Used the printer for some garage upgrades too. Posted over here:


Love the M12 tools so far!

@Wildman, I know you had picked some up. How are you feeling about them so far? I haven't done more than these 'cosmetic' efforts vs a more involved mechanical effort, yet. But they've been a serious convenience.

Also picked up the M12 vacuum:


71Y6FAt3zPL.jpg


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-Vacuum-Only-0960-20/313725464

HD was offer a free High Output battery when I picked it up (available now during the HD Spring Black Friday sale). It's like the dust-buster to my recent RIGID wet/dry vac (picked up in Nov Black Friday, based on recommendation here for which is the best wheeled version to upgrade from my crappy B&D version).
 
Used the printer for some garage upgrades too. Posted over here:


Love the M12 tools so far!

@Wildman, I know you had picked some up. How are you feeling about them so far? I haven't done more than these 'cosmetic' efforts vs a more involved mechanical effort, yet. But they've been a serious convenience.

Also picked up the M12 vacuum:


View attachment 606937

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-Vacuum-Only-0960-20/313725464

HD was offer a free High Output battery when I picked it up (available now during the HD Spring Black Friday sale). It's like the dust-buster to my recent RIGID wet/dry vac (picked up in Nov Black Friday, based on recommendation here for which is the best wheeled version to upgrade from my crappy B&D version).

Damn you've been busy.
 
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Used the printer for some garage upgrades too. Posted over here:


Love the M12 tools so far!

@Wildman, I know you had picked some up. How are you feeling about them so far? I haven't done more than these 'cosmetic' efforts vs a more involved mechanical effort, yet. But they've been a serious convenience.

Also picked up the M12 vacuum:


View attachment 606937

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-Vacuum-Only-0960-20/313725464

HD was offer a free High Output battery when I picked it up (available now during the HD Spring Black Friday sale). It's like the dust-buster to my recent RIGID wet/dry vac (picked up in Nov Black Friday, based on recommendation here for which is the best wheeled version to upgrade from my crappy B&D version).

I've only used mine a few times too so I really can't say yet how I feel about them...
What I do know is while the impact is nice to use the battery adds a TON of weight to it compared to the air impact... But I'm not fighting the hose..

I'm still undecided as to which I prefer...
 
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I've only used mine a few times too so I really can't say yet how I feel about them...
What I do know is while the impact is nice to use the battery adds a TON of weight to it compared to the air impact... But I'm not fighting the hose..

I'm still undecided as to which I prefer...

That's fair.

A lot of times these days I only get an hour or two in the garage so not having to have 80 gallon air tank charge for 8 to 10 minutes is beneficial with the electric.
 
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That's fair.

A lot of times these days I only get an hour or two in the garage so not having to have 80 gallon air tank charge for 8 to 10 minutes is beneficial with the electric.

I've been either busy with other things or not feeling like working on the Jeep so it's torn apart right now but I've only got 10 days before I'm supposed to do another shakedown run so I've got to get BUSY...
My compressor stays on all the time but I do have a small air leak so it'll come on every 3-4 days to refill itself.
Once I add to my collection of battery tools I'm sure I'll like them more.
 
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I've been either busy with other things or not feeling like working on the Jeep so it's torn apart right now but I've only got 10 days before I'm supposed to do another shakedown run so I've got to get BUSY...
My compressor stays on all the time but I do have a small air leak so it'll come on every 3-4 days to refill itself.
Once I add to my collection of battery tools I'm sure I'll like them more.

That would drive me insane omg. I accidentally left my compressor plugged in a couple weeks ago and it turned on when I was in bed and it scared the shit out of me AND pissed me off.
 
Test fit went great!

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It looks close but the fuse panel has plenty of clearance to open.

I'll adjust the mounting holes done 0.3875".

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I left some extra wire on the amp a gauge for final install and it will get loom to protect it.

Probably sending this off to Send Cut Send tomorrow.
 
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I've been either busy with other things or not feeling like working on the Jeep so it's torn apart right now but I've only got 10 days before I'm supposed to do another shakedown run so I've got to get BUSY...
My compressor stays on all the time but I do have a small air leak so it'll come on every 3-4 days to refill itself.
Once I add to my collection of battery tools I'm sure I'll like them more.

I have auto vent valves on the tank and at the bottom of my cooling lines (humid here in the summer). So mine would run probably every hour or two to top off.

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That would drive me insane omg. I accidentally left my compressor plugged in a couple weeks ago and it turned on when I was in bed and it scared the shit out of me AND pissed me off.

Since mine is in the garage I don't hear it when it starts up and I'm not out there. Now when I'm smoking a cigar and it starts up it'll catch me by surprise now and then...
 
Tied out a metal port for the breather with the nut on the outside, per @Rickyd's advice.

OEM tube is thick!

View attachment 606919

Tried to bent the washers to meet the curvature the best I could with the tools I could think to use (vice and a hammer... — I tried a tube and hammer, but I couldn't get a good grip on the washer).

I cut off the inner barb and trimmed down the hex top & bottom to get it closer to the washer.

Inside (couple reference marks to make sure it was facing the way I wanted after modding the hex head):

View attachment 606920

Exterior:

View attachment 606921

But I don't have enough thread engagement:

View attachment 606922

View attachment 606923

Tough to tell in the pics, but I probably only have 1-1.5 turns of a thread engaged. Lots still visible. It's especially dark because of blue lock-tite.

I think my solution it to flush the exterior washer. So I'll ground down the exterior plastic to give a surface like this:

View attachment 606925

[And yes - I am busting out all the engineering/design tools! 3D CAD above for the fuse mounting plate — MS Paint here. Only the best design tools for this Jeep! :ROFLMAO: ]

What the heck? Chrysler could have built a hundred thousand angry bird grills from the plastic saved if they slimmed down the wall thickness on those tubes!
 
I need to redo my lines to get some better cooling in them. That's a nice looking setup.
Funny that this pops up today...
View attachment 607175

Thanks. It was a bear to get all the fittings leak-free while soldering (tight are and about a million joints...) but after it was all done, it's been great to me.
 
Luckily, I realized (before I hit 'send' to Send Cut Send) that I can't move the mount up. Otherwise, the mounting spots for the Alt-Battery fuse mounting would hit the hood support.

As is, not raised (Alt-Battery fuse is the left 4-bolt pattern on this pic):

Mount.jpg


So it'll stay the same as I 3D printed.

I opted to try it in 5052 H32 Aluminum (.187") to try out aluminum. It's a low stress part so I didn't worry too much on which aluminum was 'right' so I went with the Send Cut Send's most common aluminum of 5052 — I'm not a material SME so I went with that as a trial material. I figured aluminum meant no prep/painting.

With that pick (same with steel option I considered), I would need to pay ~$12 in shipping. If I added about $14, I'd get free shipping.

So - I added black anodizing which ended up being $1 more expensive with free shipping than the bare aluminum + shipping. Includes free deburring, too, with the anodizing. So seemed like a good upgrade for basically no cost.

It's $31 (with a discount from SuperFastMatt). Not cheap but I'd spend way more time in the garage on my own limited time to make up the same bracket - and I want this nice clean install.