Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

BMB Steering Skid Install

MikeE024

TJ Expert
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2021
Messages
3,919
Location
Tucson
Below is my installation of Blaine's BMB steering skid available at https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/products/steering-box-skid.

The skid assembly is high quality and comes with directions. I especially appreciate the tumbled finish, grade-8 fasteners, and flag nut that makes the installation much easier.

Contents:

Skid with brace 3/8” 6061 T6
(4) 3/8-16 x 1 1/4” Gr. 8 flange head bolts
(4) 3/8-16 Gr. 8 flange nuts
(1) 7/16-20 x 1” Gr. 8 hex head cap screw
(1) 7/16 x 1/8” Gr. 8 SAE washer
(1) 7/16” serrated flange nut with flag

0.png


I first verified that the 7/16-20 cap screw cleared the hole. The directions instruct us to use a 7/16" drill bit if it won't clear (mine did).
1.jpg


View of the cap screw clearing the hole.
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Insert the flag nut with it oriented upside down so it will fit through the opening.
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Then, orient it right side up.
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Line the nut up with the hole.
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Install the brace by finger tightening the 7/16-20 cap screw to the flag nut.
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Insert and snug up the skid-to-brace fasteners some, but not to final tightness. Then line up the skid to the steering gear (verify that the left/right clearance is even) and clamp it to prepare for drilling. Confirm the alignment is good after it's clamped in place. Note: Do not drill before doing the next step.
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Tighten the 7/16-20 cap screw to 75 foot pounds to set the brace at its proper location.
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I drilled through the bumper and tightened up the 3/8-16 flange head bolts using the 3/8-16 nuts provided, but there are tap options as well.

Tap option 1: For folks who can't access the nuts without removing the bumper (or who wish to not use the nuts), you can also tap the bumper for 3/8-16. To do so, use the holes of the skid to guide you as you first drill 1/8" of depth with a 3/8" bit. Then, drill the rest of the way through the bumper using a 5/16" bit. Next, tap to 3/8-16. Be mindful when tightening the fastener into the bumper since the bumper thickness can only hold so much torque.

Tap option 2: Blaine prefers using 3/8-16 time-serts for tapping into bumpers since they can withstand more torque. If you choose the time-sert option, you can drill the bumper holes with a 3/8" bit since the hole needs to be slightly enlarged for the time-sert tap.

9.jpg


Snug up the 3/8-16 flange head bolts to the bumper.
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Snug up the 3/8-16 flange head bolts to the brace to complete the installation.
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Note 1: For bumper removal, you can remove the skid fasteners to the bumper, and if necessary, also loosen the fastener to the flag nut.

Note 2: To gain access to your steering gear, remove the skid fasteners to the bumper and loosen the fastener to the flag nut until the inboard fastener of the brace clears the steering gear, then swing the skid outboard.

Views of the completed install:

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15.jpg
 
Below is my installation of Blaine's BMB steering skid available at https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/products/steering-box-skid.

The skid assembly is high quality and comes with directions. I especially appreciate the tumbled finish, grade-8 fasteners, and flag nut that makes the installation much easier.

Contents:

Skid with brace 3/8” 6061 T6
(4) 3/8-16 x 1 1/4” Gr. 8 flange head bolts
(4) 3/8-16 Gr. 8 flange nuts
(1) 7/16-20 x 1” Gr. 8 hex head cap screw
(1) 7/16 x 1/8” Gr. 8 SAE washer
(1) 7/16” serrated flange nut with flag

View attachment 649987

I first verified that the 7/16-20 cap screw cleared the hole. The directions instruct us to use a 7/16" drill bit if it won't clear (mine did).
View attachment 649988

View of the cap screw clearing the hole.
View attachment 649989

Insert the flag nut with it oriented upside down so it will fit through the opening.
View attachment 649990

Then, orient it right side up.
View attachment 649991

Line the nut up with the hole.
View attachment 649992

Install the brace by finger tightening the 7/16-20 cap screw to the flag nut.
View attachment 649993

Insert and snug up the skid-to-brace fasteners some, but not to final tightness. Then line up the skid to the steering gear (verify that the left/right clearance is even) and clamp it to prepare for drilling. Confirm the alignment is good after it's clamped in place. Note: Do not drill before doing the next step.
View attachment 649994

Tighten the 7/16-20 cap screw to 75 foot pounds to set the brace at its proper location.
View attachment 649995


I drilled through the bumper and tightened up the 3/8-16 flange head bolts using the 3/8-16 nuts provided, but there are tap options as well.

Tap option 1: For folks who can't access the nuts without removing the bumper (or who wish to not use the nuts), you can also tap the bumper for 3/8-16. To do so, use the holes of the skid to guide you as you first drill 1/8" of depth with a 3/8" bit. Then, drill the rest of the way through the bumper using a 5/16" bit. Next, tap to 3/8-16. Be mindful when tightening the fastener into the bumper since the bumper thickness can only hold so much torque.

Tap option 2: Blaine prefers using 3/8-16 time-serts for tapping into bumpers since they can withstand more torque. If you choose the time-sert option, you can drill the bumper holes with a 3/8" bit since the hole needs to be slightly enlarged for the time-sert tap.

View attachment 650021

Snug up the 3/8-16 flange head bolts to the bumper.
View attachment 649998

Snug up the 3/8-16 flange head bolts to the brace to complete the installation.
View attachment 649999


Note 1: For bumper removal, you can remove the skid fasteners to the bumper, and if necessary, also loosen the fastener to the flag nut.

Note 2: To gain access to your steering gear, remove the skid fasteners to the bumper and loosen the fastener to the flag nut until the inboard fastener of the brace clears the steering gear, then swing the skid outboard.

Views of the completed install:

View attachment 650008

View attachment 650009

View attachment 650010

View attachment 650011

Thank you, the only thing I see is to make sure that you don't use a different bolt into the flag nut that is longer or with a thinner washer. Not quite so bad here but it has been a problem to run the bolt in too far and smear the threads on the bolt sleeve which makes it a bear to get out.
 
That flag nut is a nice touch, Mr. Blaine!
One of these days, the fastener world will catch up and make fine thread flange head bolts. The lack thereof is an oddity I'm unable to figure out.
That and if it wasn't obvious, there has been a lot of misinformation put out over the years about any welding on a fastener ruining the strength. Per usual, I welded and tested several of the flag nuts to make sure they held at a reasonable torque value. I already knew they would, but without testing, one does not really "know".
 
Thanks Blaine for making these available. Top notch quality and part as expected.

While looking at the old skid I removed, I noticed most of the hits were on the outer edge where there is no gear box to protect. This skid increases clearance and is far less bulky.
IMG_6475.jpeg

IMG_6476.jpeg

IMG_6477.jpeg
 
Here's mine with a few years on it being transferred to it's new home. Everything you need and nothing you don't.
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator