Battery draining

[rockbottom]

I had a very similar problem

1. If there is a bad diode in your alternator it can drain the battery

2. I did all the tests everyone is recommending

3. Autozone lends a tool called”OEM AMP HOUND” it works great, try it

4 read my post, i did everything, even got a new OEM radio

5. FOUND MY PROBLEM. when i turned the key off to remove it the key would go all the way counterclockwise to the accessory position and them come out of the ignition

The key should only come out in the off position so when i would shut the engine off, turn the key backward and pull it out the ignition was in the accessory position thus draining the battery

FIX. I got a new ignition from Dorman and it uses your OEM key so you can only remove the key in the off position

Good luck

 

[Minderbinder3]

Thank you for the advice. Mine does not have an issue with the ignition tumbler. I saved my Jeep from the deer lease and eventual graveyard. It has several “bush fixes” that are likely the culprit.

Just a few of the things: It doesn’t have O2 sensors (they were cut off) Oil pressure sensor is nonfunctional (plugged and I can’t remove it) and no check engine light at all (not even when it starts up). Not to mention no airbags, seatbelt sensors, and horn by-passed.

This could take me a while to figure out.

 

[Minderbinder3]

I believe it was the constant power to the horn that was the main problem. I removed the fuse 2 days ago and the battery drain has been negligible since then. Thanks for your help!

As far as the other things “bush fixed” on my Jeep…it reminds me of my ‘91 YJ. Other than the check engine light, I don’t believe it had any of those things from the factory as well.

 

[macleanflood]

I'd bet if you pulled the dash you'd find the check engine light and airbag light bulbs have been removed.

Me personally I'd get a new used steering column or replace/repair the clock spring issue. Those have failed and gone to ground and wiped out signals to other important sensors.

You only need two O2 sensors and it only reads the front one...you need both to avoid codes. You don't need a cat.

I removed my airbags and lights.

I'd get that light bulb back in for the check engine light and get something that can read codes and live data. I replaced my dash bulbs with LEDs from Superbright LEDs.

Better to know what's going on than roll the dice.

-Mac

 

[Austin O.]

Not sure this will really help, since you say the only thing connected are the main cables, but...

How I always start the process of chasing a parasitic drain is to turn off every switch in the vehicle, close all doors, etc. and get your DVM.
Then go to your fuse box and remove a single fuse.
W/ the DVM, check for voltage across the contacts for that circuit (measure in the fuse box, not across the actual fuse).
If you see voltage across the contacts in the box, then that circuit is drawing current. If you don't measure voltage, then there is no current draw on that circuit.
Replace the fuse and move to another. In a perfect world, you will not measure any voltage between the contacts.
Do this across each fuse and it will tell you where to start looking for the root cause.

Reviving this thread… my battery has been dead twice now after sitting only overnight. I just did what Dan suggested in the post to which I replied. I checked every fuse with a multimeter for voltage, all showed as 0V except for fuse 10 which is labeled “cluster” - that showed 0.15V. Is this significant enough to be my issue? Where do I go from here? Thanks!

 

[WestCoastDan]

That's a pretty minimal draw.
Does this fuse also happen to control the radio and/or any aftermarket audio components?
I once had an amp that would remain on and it drained my battery several times before I tracked it down.

 

[Austin O.]

That's a pretty minimal draw.
Does this fuse also happen to control the radio and/or any aftermarket audio components?
I once had an amp that would remain on and it drained my battery several times before I tracked it down.

This fuse does not control anything else I don’t think. You reminded me though that I have a separate powered sub connected directly to the battery. Its fuse is therefore in a separate spot. The fuse pins for that read .15V immediately after turning the car off. It then slowly rose (I haven’t put the fuse back in yet) and is still doing so, it has now been about 4 hours and is at .78V. I am quite confused as to what this means. I assume this has to be my problem. I’ve had the sub for over a year now without issues and have not changed the wiring at all…

 

[CreepinDeth]

I do my own 12V battery load tests
I keep 11 batteries maintained in 8 cars and 3 motorcycles

https://www.amazon.com/TOPDON-BT100...-Motorcycle/dp/B07Z67MMGC/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Anything NOT driven weekly should be on an intelligent battery tender. There are plenty of videos on Youtube that can educate anyone how to trace parasitic draw and what is acceptable

 

[WestCoastDan]

This fuse does not control anything else I don’t think. You reminded me though that I have a separate powered sub connected directly to the battery. Its fuse is therefore in a separate spot. The fuse pins for that read .15V immediately after turning the car off. It then slowly rose (I haven’t put the fuse back in yet) and is still doing so, it has now been about 4 hours and is at .78V. I am quite confused as to what this means. I assume this has to be my problem. I’ve had the sub for over a year now without issues and have not changed the wiring at all…

This much constant drain could be why the battery is now failing

 

[CreepinDeth]

https://www.ac3filter.net/how-to-keep-subwoofer-from-draining-battery/

 

[Austin O.]

I do my own 12V battery load tests
I keep 11 batteries maintained in 8 cars and 3 motorcycles

https://www.amazon.com/TOPDON-BT100...-Motorcycle/dp/B07Z67MMGC/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Anything NOT driven weekly should be on an intelligent battery tender. There are plenty of videos on Youtube that can educate anyone how to trace parasitic draw and what is acceptable

I drive my tj daily. I just realized that it first was completely dead after I tried to start it after not driving it while on vacation for a week. That is by far the most amount of days I’ve gone without driving it in a long time. The second time it died was the following day and I had only driven it for maybe 40 minutes that day. That probably was not long enough for the battery to sufficiently recharge. Considering I have been driving it daily for over a year with the sub installed and have never had problems, would it make sense that once the battery is fully charged again that I won’t need to worry about it if I continue to drive the tj daily? Has the fact that I’ve driven it so often been hiding the parasitic drain? I feel like this is the only thing that would make sense considering my issues just now started. Is this a bad way of thinking/going about it? I’ll check the wiring anyways tomorrow and make sure that the remote for it is not connected to a constant 12v source... I see that that is a common wiring mistake. Thanks for your help

 

[WestCoastDan]

Charge & test the battery, then go from there.

 

[Mac57]

I drive my tj daily. I just realized that it first was completely dead after I tried to start it after not driving it while on vacation for a week. That is by far the most amount of days I’ve gone without driving it in a long time. The second time it died was the following day and I had only driven it for maybe 40 minutes that day. That probably was not long enough for the battery to sufficiently recharge. Considering I have been driving it daily for over a year with the sub installed and have never had problems, would it make sense that once the battery is fully charged again that I won’t need to worry about it if I continue to drive the tj daily? Has the fact that I’ve driven it so often been hiding the parasitic drain? I feel like this is the only thing that would make sense considering my issues just now started. Is this a bad way of thinking/going about it? I’ll check the wiring anyways tomorrow and make sure that the remote for it is not connected to a constant 12v source... I see that that is a common wiring mistake. Thanks for your help

When you did your initial check on each fuse with the multimeter no problematic draw was found. Given that I think your reasoning above then likely explains the issue. Your amps rather low draw, over a week, drained the battery and it's not yet fully recharged.

 

[Austin O.]

When you did your initial check on each fuse with the multimeter no problematic draw was found. Given that I think your reasoning above then likely explains the issue. Your amps rather low draw, over a week, drained the battery and it's not yet fully recharged.

Yeah makes sense, I pulled the fuse and will just drive for a few days before I put it back in to make sure the battery gets fully charged again. Thanks

 

[CreepinDeth]

Your battery may be on its last leg
You need to do a load test, and check it

If its weak, pull it out, fill each 2V cell with distilled water for any that are low. Do a deep discharge, desulfate, and full recharge cycle (24-36 hours)

https://chargerblog.com/how-to-desulfate-a-battery-with-charger/

If you dont have a full scale charger that can desulfate a 12V auto battery, every man needs one. Time to get one

Most people dont know how to properly check and maintain a wet lead acid battery, because they want you to keep buying more, so its not taught or common knowledge

Btw if the sub is drawing too much load while car is off, perhaps insert a toggle switch for it

 

[Coadster32]

I just got this for Christmas. For the price, there really is no excuse not to have one. Not certain if it load tests properly, but at least I'm not relying on some yahoo at the local parts store. I have a parasitic draw on my battery of .01 amps while sitting. I didn't track it down 100%, but not even certain if that draw is even enough to be concerned about. I am posting in another thread about my alternator charging at 13.5volts, (which is newly replaced). I know the PCM dictated charging voltage from the Alternator. My battery is just about 2 years old, and didn't expect much issue with it. (Whole other story I suppose)

 

[CreepinDeth]

I have a parasitic draw on my battery of .01 amps while sitting. I didn't track it down 100%, but not even certain if that draw is even enough to be concerned about.

Just about every vehicle sold has some parasitic draw.

I cant remember the EXACT number of acceptable loss, but pullin from memory it may have been 0.03amps (30 milliamps). So I wouldnt worry about it personally as ur well below that and pretty tight actually.

 

[Coadster32]

Jeep barely started at work. Got it home, hooked up the battery charger, and it read fully charged in less than 2 minutes, (took a picture of it). Did a "load test" with my tester, and said the battery was 1/2 life. Tested it with a small hydrometer, and every cell was bad. Pulled it out, went to the parts store, they load tested it and said the battery needs to be fully charged to test it. I showed him my date stamped picture and battery receipt. He handed over a new replacement battery for free. Got it home, made sure the cells were full, hooked up the charger, and had dinner. After dinner, charger said it was full, dropped it into the jeep, tested it with my load tester, and said it was at 92%. Jeep fired right up without a hiccup. Hope my issue went away for good now.

My take-away...Load tester may/maynot be a be-all, end-all test for a battery. The old school hydrometer told the tail. Unfortunately the young man behind the register doesn't know what that is.

 

[CreepinDeth]

Jeep barely started at work. Got it home, hooked up the battery charger, and it read fully charged in less than 2 minutes, (took a picture of it). Did a "load test" with my tester, and said the battery was 1/2 life. Tested it with a small hydrometer, and every cell was bad.

My take-away...Load tester may/maynot be a be-all, end-all test for a battery. The old school hydrometer told the tail. Unfortunately the young man behind the register doesn't know what that is.

What were your gravity readings on the hydrometer?

We use the old school ones routinely to maintain substation DC cells that are the nerve center of a station.Even if its barely out of spec, a battery can be low and then refilled with a 72hr equalize charge and rejuvenated.

either way, glad ya got a new one free

 

[Coadster32]

What were your gravity readings on the hydrometer?

I have a very small, (cheap) one. There are 4 balls in it, each one representing approx. 25% battery life. If they all float, you're good. If 2 floats, 50%, etc. I had one cell out of the 6 that floated 3 balls. The rest floated none. Knowing that I had "free replacement" months left, I just went that way. Was chasing gremlins anyhow. Today was a good day for the jeep starting/battery wise. Cold day here in CT, and had about 8 starts on it. Cranked well, no issues. Thank you.