Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

ARB CKMA12 wiring question

Morks

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Long story short I ended up using the ARB compressor I got that I intially was going to sell... I am wondering if anyone has converted the 5 pin switch over to a 2 pin toggle switch? I have the Isolation switch hooked up to a 2 pin toggle switch, but for some reason cannot figure it out for the other. For the isolation switch I wired the red/yellow (where it says to ignition on the diagram) to the battery, and the red, red/yellow to the toggle. Now just trying to figure out how to get a solenoid firing on 2 wires from switch 1 or 2 if possible. Any help would be appreciated.

Edit: not sure if this makes it more complicated just one switch of the 2 labeled switches (2 total, 1 for isolation, 1 for solenoid), I have an e locker up front.




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Looks like if you put a 2 pin toggle between the red wire (going to pin 2 on sw1) and the yellow wire (going to pin 3 on sw1); that should turn on solenoid 1.
Assuming you have power on the red wire coming from your isolation switch.
Remember, no power to sw2 unless you close sw1.
 
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Long story short I ended up using the ARB compressor I got that I intially was going to sell... I am wondering if anyone has converted the 5 pin switch over to a 2 pin toggle switch? I have the Isolation switch hooked up to a 2 pin toggle switch, but for some reason cannot figure it out for the other. For the isolation switch I wired the red/yellow (where it says to ignition on the diagram) to the battery, and the red, red/yellow to the toggle. Now just trying to figure out how to get a solenoid firing on 2 wires from switch 1 or 2 if possible. Any help would be appreciated.

Edit: not sure if this makes it more complicated just one switch of the 2 labeled switches (2 total, 1 for isolation, 1 for solenoid), I have an e locker up front.




View attachment 424782
Converting the 5 pin switch over to a 2 pin toggle switch may be possible, but it would require some modifications to the wiring. The 5 pin switch has more functions such as the auto-reset circuit breaker, whereas the 2 pin toggle switch only has an on/off function.

If you want to proceed with this modification, you could try wiring the red/yellow wire to the battery and the red wire to the solenoid. Then connect the toggle switch between the red/yellow wire and the red wire.

As for the e-locker switch, it should not complicate the wiring too much. You can still wire the solenoid switch separately from the e-locker switch as they are independent systems.
 
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It's time to put a beat-down on the AI machine!

There are a couple important things to know about ARB's wiring scheme. First, the harness is designed for Carling-style illuminated switches, so knowing the pinout is critical:
  • Terminal 2 is the input* side of the switch (12V in)
  • Terminal 3 is the output* side of the switch (12V out), and it is connected internally to the positive side of the "on" light inside the switch
  • Terminal 6 is the positive for the instrument light inside the switch (designed to be tied to the wire that supplies power to the dash lights when your lights are on)
  • Terminal 7 is the negative for the instrument light inside the switch
  • Terminal 8 is the negative for the "on" light inside the switch
*Note: Switches don't normally have input- and output-specific sides. The Carling-style switches do, only because there is an indicator light illuminated when the switch is turned on. If you wire the input and output reversed, the indicator light will always be illuminated (switch on or off makes no difference).

Second, there are actually two safeties built into the circuit. Ignition power goes to Pin 2 on the Isolation Switch. When you turn that on, that ignition power energizes Pin 3 on the Isolation Switch, which then supplies power to Pin 2 on Switch 1. When Switch 1 is turned on, Pin 2 on Switch 1 energizes Pin 3 on Switch 1, which simultaneously energizes Solenoid 1 and Pin 2 on Switch 2. Then, when Switch 2 is turned on, Pin 2 on Switch 2 energizes Pin 3 on Switch 2, which energizes Solenoid 2. Switch 1/Solenoid 1 are supposed to be used for the rear locker and Switch 2/Solenoid 2 are supposed to be used for the front locker, and the system prevents you from using the front locker by itself. Since you're only using one locker, it may not seem like this is important at first thought, but it is. If you use Switch 2 for your locker and don't connect anything to Switch 1, it won't work because Pins 2 and 3 on Switch 1's connectors will always be open (not connected). You either have to install a switch and use all three switches, permanently connect Pins 2 and 3 for Switch 1, or simply don't use Switch 2 and use Switch 1 only. Make sense?

So, since you're using unlighted switches, you simply connect one switch to Pins 2 and 3 of the Isolation Switch harness (Red wire and Red-Yellow wire) and the other switch (for the locker) to Pins 2 and 3 of the Switch 1 harness (Red wire and Yellow wire). All of the other wires to those two switches are unnecessary, as they only supply positive and negative to the lights in the Carling-style switches. Likewise, nothing needs to connect to the five connectors on the Switch 2 harness.

To engage your locker, both the Isolation Switch and Switch 1 will need to be turned on.
 
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Looks like if you put a 2 pin toggle between the red wire (going to pin 2 on sw1) and the yellow wire (going to pin 3 on sw1); that should turn on solenoid 1.
Assuming you have power on the red wire coming from your isolation switch.
Remember, no power to sw2 unless you close sw1.

Wired similar. I am changing the switches so no one accidentally bumps them and turns the compressor on as I am running down the highway or similar.
 
@sab Really appreciate that write up, the only similar article I found was on an old land cruiser forum and left out some of that info. Thanks!
 
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Okay so I remember getting to this point with the switch and thought I was way off for some reason. I have the yellow and red wires connected to my switch. My issue is when I flick on switch 1 for the rear locker and the compressor it opens up the solenoid and allows air to escape instead of locking the locker. Then if I flick switch 1 off and only have the isolation on, all 150 psi goes right to the locker.

edit: I do not have the red-yellow wire going to the ignition, instead it's hardwired to the battery. Do I need to splice that to one of the 2 wires being used to power my solenoid?
 
I do not have the red-yellow wire going to the ignition, instead it's hardwired to the battery.

The power source shouldn't matter.
It's possible the solenoid is bad.
Can you try the other one?
Use sw1 to turn on sol2.
Sorry, it's been quite awhile since I've messed with an ARB locker. :unsure:
 
No worries at all and appreciate the help. Solenoid is brand new, so I'm hoping I did not get a dud. Only have 1 to test...
 
Another thing would be if the locker air line is on the wrong port, but I'm thinking that would send full air to exhaust till you flip sw1 on.
 
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