Advice on purchasing my first TJ

[coopnugz]

Hi There,

First of all thanks in advance for any feedback provided here. I am in the hunt for a TJ as a fun vehicle for me and my family that will be driven to and from work occasionally. I’m in the northeast so finding good ones has been challenging.

I recently came across an 04 rubicon 5-speed with 138k miles. It appears to be in great shape paint and body. I was sent photos of the undercarriage and I think it looks OK but not sure how wary I should be at this point. I’m hoping I can get some feedback on the rust situation seen in the photos. My previous auto hobby was running and modding a 1st gen Tacoma so I know what it’s like dealing with frames and suspension components that like to rust out.

Some other info. The jeep is stock other than wheels, tires, and a 2” body lift. I do not care for body lifts but actually figured it might be easier to rectify than opening up the can of worms that is someone else’s custom full suspension lift.

Money-wise it’s a good deal in my mind, high 4-figures asking price for a decent shape rubicon. I wasn’t looking for a rubicon specifically, this one just happens to be the year and color I want in a manual. I just don’t want to get bit in the ass on the rust. Thanks again!

 

[coopnugz]

Also to add: I intend to check the tubs when I go see it tomorrow for a test drive. I will search the forums for other pre-buy inspection advice. Mainly focused on the rust here, I will be probably driving in winter salt as an occasional work daily, so I would wire brush and hit with a converter the rust already seen there and fluid film each fall.

 

[TheBoogieman]

It looks good to me. Any surface rust can be cleaned up easily. Stick your fingers inside the frame holes to feel for rough patches and flakes. If it's smooth, you're all good.

 

[Gilaguy23]

Rust...what rust? Thats better than 95% of them out there IMO.

 

[MikekiM]

If that is indeed a NE Jeep, you're off to a great start frame-wise.

 

[Duck Doctor]

Appears the rear main seal is leaking, which you may want to address. Recommend verifying this is actually a Rubicon. Sixth character in the VIN will be the number "6." Also verify that the 241 transfer case wasn't removed and that the air lockers actually work.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Appears the rear main seal is leaking

Looks more like the oil pan gasket to me.

 

[coopnugz]

Thanks all for your replies. Great tips ensuring it is indeed a rubicon and still has the 4:1 tcase. I’ll check the vin. Seller claims the lockers work great but I had planned to test them. The price certainly reflects a rubicon with all of its accoutrements in somewhat good shape. I was curious about the wet oil pan as well, I’m hoping it’s not rear main seal. I’ll plan to look up how to confirm if it’s the rear main, search on here how big a deal that is (it was a massive pita on the Tacoma), and factor that into negotiations. If it’s just the pan gasket I’m not too stressed.

 

[cb4017]

Off hand I'd say that looks pretty darn good. I'm thinking if you're able to get a solid, mostly rust free Rubicon for under $10K than that would be a very good deal.

 

[coopnugz]

Went and checked it out, test drove it. Confirmed with the VIN it is indeed a rubicon. Underneath the frame is solid and feeling around inside it was smooth as eggs. There was a lot of mild rust on almost all the suspension components except for the newish shocks. 95% sure it has a rear main seal leak. Could not tell how bad leak was as jeep was moved out of a garage and sitting on grass when I was poking around it. The body is good except for one spot of bubbling corrosion near passenger rear fender flare. It has a 12k winch, new rims and tires, and an after market stereo with touch screen and CarPlay that i would take out. Interior was pretty trashed and it’s been heavily smoked in. My wife wants me to turn it down based on the smell alone haha. Door handles need replacing. Soft top is close to end of its useful life and probably leaks like a sieve. No signs of water damage. Can’t say I was blown away but $8500 (as low as he will go) seems like a deal even if there are some issues to contend with — what do you guys think? Oh last thing I’ll say is it shifts like butter, and I can at least confirm I must get my hands on an NV3550. Anyway, I’ll let y’all know if I get it, sorry I don’t have any additional pics I didn’t take any unfortunately.

 

[jeepguy03]

From what I see, I'd say go for it. Frame rust is the biggest killer of TJs, and you won't find another frame like that in the North East. I had to buy mine from California to find one that wasn't rusted out. Everything else can be fixed.

 

[coopnugz]

photo of the rig from its classified ad:

Yea I tend to agree, not sure what my hesitation is at this point. Gonna sleep on it and decide tomorrow.

 

[hardtailpan]

I'm in the NE also and feel your pain.

Yeah, from the pics, i agree, it looks great, but i'd still do a full go over with a screwdriver or chipping hammer. As clean as it looks I doubt you will find anything, but I've also seen em rust in one place and nowhere else. Also, I checked out a rubicon this past week where the guy took pics of the frame and it all looked great. I went and looked and the frame was junk. Skid pulling thru frame, he even used some kind of black tape, gorilla maybe, to tape over a 6" rust hole in front of passenger side rear control arm. That said, the asking price was less than half what the one you are looking at is going for. Buyer beware out there!

I don't dig the flares, and if you saw some rust near them, i'd wonder what they would be hiding as well. You didn't notice any corrosion on top of the front fenders? Rocker panels like to rust too, esp, toward the rear, and body mounts as well.

The smoke thing can be dealt with, replace the carpet and maybe get new seats. You said the interior was trashed anyways. Leave the top off on nice days for a while and it will go away.

The price seems fair. Out here, the prices really come down in the late spring and fall, and crater over the winter, not to mention the general market for TJs seems to have fallen off quite a bit lately. Finding a frame that nice up here is tough, my last one came from Florida and is perfect, but that's not easy to find.

Let us know what you decide!

 

[MikekiM]

hmmmmm.... The words and the music aren't matching.

North East vehicle? The interior is trashed and the frame looks like it's on a warm weather Jeep..
Wonder if that is the original frame.

 

[hardtailpan]

hmmmmm.... The words and the music aren't matching.

North East vehicle? The interior is trashed and the frame looks like it's on a warm weather Jeep..
Wonder if that is the original frame.

Or maybe just not an original NE Jeep. The ones from the South do make it up here occasionally, and if you get your hands on em' soon enough, they still look like this. It'd be interesting to at least pull the buildsheet to see where it was sold out of, or better yet, carfax.

 

[jeepguy03]

My bet is either not driven in winter, or more likely not a North East Jeep originally. I can confidently say there are not many TJs around here with a frame that clean, after spending years looking for one around my area before going to the west coast to find one.

This is however another benefit of purchasing it, if you don't end up keeping it the clean frame is a big selling point in this area.

 

[tnjeepguy]

https://fcagroup.my.site.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing

VIN lookup.

 

[Tob]

Looks like a very clean TJ, especially for the Northeast. Not to mention the only functioning underwood courtesy lamp I have ever witnessed (not that it is of any use even when functional).

…if it’s the rear main, search on here how big a deal that is (it was a massive pita on the Tacoma), and factor that into negotiations.

Not sure how it is on the Tacoma’s V6, but the rear main seal on the 4.0L is a two-piece design, so it can be replaced without removing the transmission. You have to remove the Y-pipe of the exhaust to get to the oil pan, then remove the oil pan, bearing brace, rear main bearing cap, then replace the upper and lower halves of the seal.

Shops will often charge north of $800 for the job. Many times, if not done exactly correctly, it will still leak or leak worse after the job. It’s a very doable job for a capable wrench turner.

Another bargaining chip for you: if the cooling system components, specifically the radiator and water pump, have not been replaced, they almost surely have one foot in the grave. Most give out around 120,000 miles.

 

[JMT]

Also to add: I intend to check the tubs when I go see it tomorrow for a test drive. I will search the forums for other pre-buy inspection advice. Mainly focused on the rust here, I will be probably driving in winter salt as an occasional work daily, so I would wire brush and hit with a converter the rust already seen there and fluid film each fall.

If you haven’t bought it already someone else probably has. What are you waiting on?! Go!!!

 

[OldBuzzard]

Ya'll need to come to a consensus on what NE means. NEbraska. NorthEast.
@coopnugz ?