You can make slight adjustments by hand. For a loop like this, a hand held brake tube bending tool would be my go to. Do it without even taking the line off the Jeep. I agree with Blaine that redoing the flare isn't worth it.
A Story of Indecision and Frivolous Spending
- Thread starter Chris
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You can make slight adjustments by hand. For a loop like this, a hand held brake tube bending tool would be my go to. Do it without even taking the line off the Jeep. I agree with Blaine that redoing the flare isn't worth it.
Thanks! I'm literally compiling a Word document of all the little pointers you and Blaine are throwing out here (with the photos as well) so that I can give it to the shop on Monday.
I wish I was closer to Blaine, I'd just pay him to do it for me and know that it was done to my OCD standards (I'm very OCD about stuff like this).
I use Eastwood's tools for brakes. Like anything everyone has their favorite tool brands, but I have no complaints for my use: https://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bender-and-forming-pliers-kit.html
A tool for everything, go figure! This is a professional shop, so it's possible they already have something like this. I just feel the need to take notes of all this stuff, as the first thing I'm going to do when I get it back is get under it and inspect everything to make sure it's to my liking.
I literally just grab a chunk of tube about the diameter of a beer can and wrap it around it. Twist it to point it at the bracket, call it good.
Clint Rivera
Member
The problem with having Blaine do it is you would be under the Jeep with a toothbrush after taking down a dirt road. Nice thing about having a regular shop do it is you want it caked in mud so you can hide the fact they were doing it by the hour.
True! Blaine does the type of work that I would do myself. I'm very, very anal and OCD when it comes to making things like this look as clean and factory as possible. I hate crappy looking welds, zip ties (unless absolutely necessary), and electrical connections that aren't soldered and heat shrinked.
You use crimp connectors instead? I was always under the impression when doing electrical connections it was best to use solder and heat shrink (assuming they are two wires that don't need an actual electrical connecter).
It looks fine. The list of parts is where its at.
14" travel 2.5" coil overs.
Savvy Mid Arm
Savvy Under Armor
Currie Rock Jock VXR Dana 60's front and rear.
PSC custom steering.
My Big Brakes for the 60.
Highline fenders.
Boatside rails
Custom Cut rear corner blanks.
Go look under the hood of your TJ. Report back how many soldered connections there are. You won't find them but there are about 6 and they are grounds tied together inside heat shrink.
We use proper crimpers, good quality brazed or solid barrel connectors and adhesive lined heat shrink with heat rated split loom or expandable loom. (has a printed stripe on it)
Good point, there are none.
I've been using connectors similar to this (depening on how many wires that need to be connected) lately, with great success:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FP1HXHQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Perhaps one day I'll get there. With the supercharger, running 37s and Dana 60s wouldn't make it such a pig.
Not to mention I'm stuck with 17" wheels for now, since I have your 17" Vanco big brake kit.
Clint Rivera
Member
Exactly. Most people use crappy butt connectors with junk crimpers and then blame the joint.
I was in the "must solder everything" crowd from back in my car audio days, but a proper crimp is faster and actually provides better conductivity. The adhesive heat shrink connectors are awesome.
They blame the method and generally they are as bad at soldering as they are at crimping so it's a wash anyway.
Clint Rivera
Member
So true. I've pulled cold solder joints apart by hand. Not to mention, old wiring tends not to enjoy being soldered.
The one I use is very similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GFXHH91/?tag=wranglerorg-20
This is where it comes from. Back in the day, if you wanted a stereo installed at Car Toys, you'd take it there, and they'd use those crappy little crimp connectors and charge you an arm and a leg. That's when I learned to solder and use heatshrink instead, and then became so accustomed to it.
You are using Weatherpac style connectors with seals on them. The seal is supposed to be crimped if you aren't doing it that way and it takes a crimper like these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0732W6HQR/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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