42RLE transmission won't shift out of first gear

[Pear]

Hi folks, my jeep wont shift up out of 1st gear while driving.

It's an 05 automatic TJ X.

The lever works to set it in Park, Reverse, Neutral and Drive.

However, while driving it stays in 1st gear and wont shift up to 2nd.

I've tried manually setting 2nd.

The transmission fluid looks clean and full on the dipstick.

It doesn't have a history of transmission problems.


There are a few other things that went downhill around the same time. I don't think they're related, but you never know..

The speedometer started jumping around occasionally registering no speed.. I assume this is the speedo-gear (replaced a few times over the years for different tires) - but I haven't looked yet so I'm not sure. The speedometer behaved like this for a few months and was getting worse but the Jeep shifted normally throughout (it stopped shifting suddenly).

The alarm came on a few nights ago with no apparent cause.. I couldn't get it to shut off via remote, so I put the key in and turned it which shut the alarm off - but the Jeep didn't start.

So now the battery appears dead. The battery is a little over 2 years old and the Jeep had sat for a few weeks (due to shifting issue), so I tried jumping it. It made clicking noises but didn't turn over. I banged on the starter with no change. The battery shouldn't be weak only being 2 years old and a jump should of allowed it to crank - so I may have another issue there. I've read about running a heavy-gauge wire from the battery's negative to the alternator's ground to bypass a sensor that may be stuck (need to read more about it) and about trying to start it in Neutral - or I may just have a bum battery.


Either way, once the battery's fixed I'll be right back to the shifting issue..

Side note: I have general tools (no specialty tools of any kind), and am very budget restricted currently.


When it rains, it pours.. So I'm needing the least expensive / easiest things to try first!

Thanks all!

 

[TJDaveX]

Check engine light on? Does the overdrive off light work when you press the switch? Any codes show up when you cycle the ignition 3 times?

Sounds like it is in limp mode. Mine was stuck in second. A bad TCM was my culprit.

 

[Chris]

How did you check the transmission fluid? When the vehicle was running and the transmission was in park or neutral?

Replace the battery with a new one then see what happens. That's the first place to start in this situation. Also let us know about the method you used to check the fluid.

Also scan it for pending or stored OBDII error codes.

 

[Pear]

Check engine light on? Does the overdrive off light work when you press the switch? Any codes show up when you cycle the ignition 3 times? Sounds like it is in limp mode. Mine was stuck in second. A bad TCM was my culprit.

Yup, the check engine light is on. It comes on occasionally since I've owned it (10 years). It was some time ago and I don't have the notes on this computer, but from what I remember: I checked the codes and replaced the TCM and ICBM (don't remember the acronym). The light and the codes seemed related to the only issue she had at the time where she'll occasionally die at a stop. She "chokes and dies" as though she's running to rich or lean. I know how to fix that on a regular carb but not injected lol. Replacing the two parts didn't fix it (if it was ever related in the first place), and the light is still on.

I only drove it 2x after it stopped shifting. I tried many things including turning overdrive off - however I don't remember if the switch lit up (it always has in the past).

I haven't seen any codes from cycling the ignition 3x. I'm aware of the trick, but the battery's dead.

I think I remember the TCM I replaced 10 years ago - it was like a spacer where the air-intake would be for a carborator. Did the codes tell you that was the part to replace? I could replace it again, but would want to be sure it's causing the shifting issue before throwing money at it.

How did you check the transmission fluid? When the vehicle was running and the transmission was in park or neutral? Replace the battery with a new one then see what happens. That's the first place to start in this situation. Also let us know about the method you used to check the fluid. Also scan it for pending or stored OBDII error codes.

I'm sure I checked it while it was off, in P and warm - probably the wrong way. I'll have to look up how to check it to remind myself of the right way before I run it next time. As a side note, I have had all fluids flushed and replaced.

I don't have an ODBII, but can borrow one from an auto parts store once I can get it there.

I agree - I think I jumped the gun on this by posting about the transmission before fixing the battery. Why does that dang battery wear out so quick though - didn't they used to last for years? Shouldn't jumping be enough for a 2yr old battery?

I was hoping the transmission would be a common problem with an easy fix that everyone knew about but me, so I could fix both battery and transmission on the same day.

At any rate - thank you for the responses - great forum btw.. I do some php programming and web design (server admin by trade) and like the way this forum is set up; like the way it looks too.

 

[Dirtybird0937]

Have you had any luck? I don't wanna piggy back but I'm having similar issues as well.

I bought about a week ago, and first thing I did on payday was replace the battery. I let advanced auto do it as I didn't wanna haggle trying to find mitch match tools and shit. But anyway I noticed as I was driving back to work that the rpms were through the roof, sounded like a helicopter and I didn't go past 60. And when I did it started skipping. I didn't notice until the next day the speedometer isn't working, the abs, seat belt engine lights are all on. It took me a second to put two and two together but I noticed it wasn't shifting gears, just revving up and staying there. I absolutely don't have the expertise or funds for transmission issues but don't see how aby of these issues persisted before the battery change. I saw something about an idle relearn process but it didn't work as it was generic and not make and model specific. But any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Jerry Bransford]

First thing is to check the transmission's ATF level via its dipstick that comes out from under the firewall on the passenger side. The engine MUST be running during the level check and if you have a 2002 or older the transmission must be shifted into NEUTRAL. If it's a 2003 or newer it can be in Park or Neutral for the level check. But again, no matter what year you have the engine must be actually running during the check. Park on level ground for the check too.

And please complete your Profile so we'll know things like your model year, engine type, etc.

 

[Tramontin1993]

Sorry for hijacking this thread. I also apologize since my vehicle isn’t quite right for this thread. My issue is with the 42RLE transmission more specifically than the vehicle. With that said any help would be appreciated.

The issue: originally was not able to select gears or shift out of reverse. Forced it to neutral to move and transport via trailer to garage. Once in garage started troubleshooting. Couldn’t shift at all. Dropped tranny pan and filter. Had to force valve body out ensuring no obvious damage to transmission. Replaced valve body, shift solenoid, and neutral safety switch, (ie anything attached physically to the valve body.) Refilled with fluids shifting into each gear and babying transmission to allow fluids to refill and gain gears back one at a time. Have reverse and 1st gear, but transmission will not shift into second or higher. Feels like it slips back into neutral. Turning off vehicle, taking out key, and then restarting gains 1st again. Fluids appear to be between hot dots on transmission stick. (Checked with engine running in park after warming to operating temps.) had check engine light on but saw on another thread a PCM forced flash steps and check engine light went out after process.

What am I missing? Did I damage something unseen removing the valve body? Casing looks fine and no leaks present.