32RH Transmission Issues

[sonnyram]

Bro, I got you.

There's a whole playlist there showing most of the overhaul. I had never done anything like this before, but it ended up being one of the easiest things I have ever done on a car. I ran the numbers on having it rebuilt, buying a rebuilt, or buying a used unit, and the only thing that made sense to me was to spend ~350 on the rebuild kit & new TC and attempt the job myself. If I failed, I was out $350 and I could still have it rebuilt. I made the right call. I look forward to the chance to do it again, actually.

Usually I'm pretty good at figuring which part is broken based on which parts work, since each component is used in 1 or 2 of the gears, you can zero in on which pieces are working/not working. But I can't figure out what would cause only reverse to work. Could be a valve body issue. Who knows. I would first start by dropping the pan and draining the fluid to see what you've got. That can tell you a lot. The FSM details the procedures to pressure test the thing but some of the steps require testing the pressure while the whole thing is jacked up & the wheels turning, which seems pretty sketch if you don't have a lift.

Do you have Facebook or IG that I can follow and maybe send you message/s if I have additional questions? Thanks.

 

[hear]

Do you have Facebook or IG that I can follow and maybe send you message/s if I have additional questions? Thanks.

I'm pretty regular here, and I try to respond to comments on the videos although the YouTube alerting process is flaky. And I try to use FB as little as possible. Honestly, if you're going to tackle this, start a thread. I'm not the only one here who has done this job, and I used their expertise when I did mine. This forum LOVES a good overhaul thread. I promise there are no dumb questions when it comes to rebuilding an automatic transmission, other than "why was I scared of this process?"

 

[hear]

after watching some youtube videos of Big Juice Garage who worked on his 32RH, I am gaining some confidence to tackle this job (LOL).

LOL, I was so excited to see a 32RH thread that I never saw that you had seen my videos before I shared them here. Is this what it sounds like when doves cry?

 

[red02tj]

What I paid in May from a highly recommended shop. This is in North Atlanta and I know California is an expensive state, but that's a big difference

View attachment 450577

What shop and have they done anything else for you? I’m in Dunwoody and always looking for a good shop to have just in case.

 

[zackcj7]

What shop and have they done anything else for you? I’m in Dunwoody and always looking for a good shop to have just in case.

I'll PM you the info

 

[sonnyram]

Bro, I got you.

There's a whole playlist there showing most of the overhaul. I had never done anything like this before, but it ended up being one of the easiest things I have ever done on a car. I ran the numbers on having it rebuilt, buying a rebuilt, or buying a used unit, and the only thing that made sense to me was to spend ~350 on the rebuild kit & new TC and attempt the job myself. If I failed, I was out $350 and I could still have it rebuilt. I made the right call. I look forward to the chance to do it again, actually.

Usually I'm pretty good at figuring which part is broken based on which parts work, since each component is used in 1 or 2 of the gears, you can zero in on which pieces are working/not working. But I can't figure out what would cause only reverse to work. Could be a valve body issue. Who knows. I would first start by dropping the pan and draining the fluid to see what you've got. That can tell you a lot. The FSM details the procedures to pressure test the thing but some of the steps require testing the pressure while the whole thing is jacked up & the wheels turning, which seems pretty sketch if you don't have a lift.

the inside part of my front planetary has some damage. Do you remember is there's some kind of washer on this part? I didn't see any when I disassemble it. I'll be replacing this. But I just want to make sure if there's supposed to be a washer here before I assemble it. Thanks.

 

[hear]

those 4 holes are for a tabbed thrust washer on the back side of that, but I don't show in my videos what those subassemblies look like. Can you take some additional pictures, I'll look through the cutting room floor and see if I've got any good pics there. I did some of the initial filming on my phone but they didnt' turn out well enough for me to want to share. Likely they're good enough to answer a question or two though.

 

[sonnyram]

those 4 holes are for a tabbed thrust washer on the back side of that, but I don't show in my videos what those subassemblies look like. Can you take some additional pictures, I'll look through the cutting room floor and see if I've got any good pics there. I did some of the initial filming on my phone but they didnt' turn out well enough for me to want to share. Likely they're good enough to answer a question or two though.

Thank you for your reply. I am talking about the scratches inside the planetery. Please see yellow arrow. Just wondering if you had those scratches in your planetary when you did your rebuild. I saw one on Ebay which also has almost identical pattern of scratches so now I’m wondering if it’s normal. Please see photo with the yellow arrows. Thanks

 

[CMBD]

Thank you for your reply. I am talking about the scratches inside the planetery. Please see yellow arrow. Just wondering if you had those scratches in your planetary when you did your rebuild. I saw one on Ebay which also has almost identical pattern of scratches so now I’m wondering if it’s normal. Please see photo with the yellow arrows. Thanks

View attachment 466158

Those don't really look like scratches.

Crappy pic, but it doesn't look like there is a washer in there. Just washers on either side.

 

[hear]

Thank you for your reply. I am talking about the scratches inside the planetery. Please see yellow arrow. Just wondering if you had those scratches in your planetary when you did your rebuild. I saw one on Ebay which also has almost identical pattern of scratches so now I’m wondering if it’s normal. Please see photo with the yellow arrows. Thanks

View attachment 466158

I knew what you were talking about but I can't remember exactly how it goes together from memory, and I'm betting that if I see more if it I'll remember what all was involved. I don't have any pictures/video of me working on the planetaries, unfortunately. The FSM should have an exploded diagram.

 

[sonnyram]

those 4 holes are for a tabbed thrust washer on the back side of that, but I don't show in my videos what those subassemblies look like. Can you take some additional pictures, I'll look through the cutting room floor and see if I've got any good pics there. I did some of the initial filming on my phone but they didnt' turn out well enough for me to want to share. Likely they're good enough to answer a question or two though.

I got the rebuild kit from Oregon Performance Transmission and it came with 2 oil seals. One of them has a long protruding rubber. What it’s for?

 

[CMBD]

Looks like a rear output seal for the extension housing on a 2wd application,

 

[hear]

Yeah, I didn't get that one in my kit.

CMBD may be correct, although I've watched several 2WD teardowns and haven't seen that seal either. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[astjp2]

What is the name of the transmission company in Westminster quoting $4k to rebuild it?

$4000 for a 32 rh? That is stupid high, I paid 400 for the basic rebuild and it was another 180 for kolene steels and redline clutches… and a transgo stage 2 kit… it only take 3-4 hours to overhaul and that puts you at $800 per hour if you pay $800 for parts… crazy

 

[hear]

$4000 for a 32 rh? That is stupid high, I paid 400 for the basic rebuild and it was another 180 for kolene steels and redline clutches… and a transgo stage 2 kit… it only take 3-4 hours to overhaul and that puts you at $800 per hour if you pay $800 for parts… crazy

Agree the work itself is easy, but $4k is not wildly out of line with other quotes I've seen people post here. The over the phone quote I got was "at least $2500" and that was pre-massive inflation.

3-4 hrs is probably on the optimistic side of things though. Especially if you're replacing all the pistons & tearing down the valve body. And I swear it takes me like 2 hrs to just to re-install the thing whenever I have to drop it.

 

[sonnyram]

Yeah, I didn't get that one in my kit.

CMBD may be correct, although I've watched several 2WD teardowns and haven't seen that seal either. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

2 of the old sealing rings for the input shaft are plastic (the orange ones). Please see attached photo. The ones OTP sent are metal. Did you reuse the plastic ones or the new metal ones? Thanks

 

[hear]

are they metal or are they Teflon? I've done it both ways though, I've left the existing rings in place when they looked perfect, and I've also replaced the old rings with the new Teflon rings out of the kit. I don't remember getting plastic (or metal) rings.

Which kit did you buy?

 

[sonnyram]

are they metal or are they Teflon? I've done it both ways though, I've left the existing rings in place when they looked perfect, and I've also replaced the old rings with the new Teflon rings out of the kit. I don't remember getting plastic (or metal) rings.

Which kit did you buy?

This https://oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/OPT-A904-RB.html

the kit didn’t come with teflon rings.

 

[hear]

Ok, I'm going into the garage after my next call to see what I've got leftover in my kit. Because I'm pretty sure that's exactly the kit I used.

 

[sonnyram]

Ok, I'm going into the garage after my next call to see what I've got leftover in my kit. Because I'm pretty sure that's exactly the kit I used.

My question is specifically for the input shaft since that’s the only part with a different sealing ring that OTP sent. Wondering if there’s any issues using the metal sealing rings. I’ve tried to call them several times and they never answered their phone. Emailed them and they never responded