First and foremost, this is all in the FSM. But if you're like me, you'd rather watch some dude actually do it than read a sometimes confusing factory service manual.
Lots of reasons why you might need to remove your transmission pump, even outside of rebuilding a 30RH or a 32RH (or 904 or 999 out of a YJ, for instance). You may just be leaking at the gasket, o-ring, front seal, or maybe you're just re-locating your breather.....in which case you'll need many of these same steps.
It is 100% possible to replace the front seal without removing the pump in general, but (a) it requires caution as the stator shaft is in the way so you have limited angles to attack the seal and (b) sometimes it just doesn't want to come out. Of those times, you may have to actually take the pump apart and drive the seal out from behind.
In general, you're probably going to have to replace the gasket any time you take the pump out because it pretty much always comes out in pieces. And any kit that includes the gasket also includes the giant o-ring, so you're going to be doing all those steps every time.
If you're replacing the pump, they are interchangeable for the most part. Especially the 30RH & 32RH from a TJ. If you get into some of the different models these units (or variations of these units) went into you may find they are less interchangeable. The lockup/non-lockup is probably the easiest thing to visually identify; the lockup has 3 check balls inside whereas the non-lockup has 2 check balls. It does not appear that this is user-serviceable in any way. Another variation is related to your torque converter. If your TC has flats on the snout, you will find that your pump gear also has flats on it. If your TC has notches, you'll find that your pump gear has corresponding lugs (which is what you'll find in the video below). Should you need to, you can almost always just take the gears from one pump and put them into another (ie. you bought a new pump off ebay but the gears have lugs while your TC has flats).
Regarding the band adjustments.... if ALL you are doing is removing the pump, working on it, and putting it back in, and will be working VERTICALLY the entire time, you probably don't need to mess with the band adjustment. If you at any point won't be fully vertical (i.e. you're doing the breather relocation), you should fully tighten down the band adjuster to hold the forward drum in place. If you don't, you risk the clutch teeth coming misaligned & having a thrust washer move on you. And if you have to correct that, I'm not kidding when I say you should just complete the rebuild at that point. Then, when you go to put the pump back in, I recommend you loosen the band adjuster screw to allow the drum some lateral play as the pump reaction shaft tries to center the drum as you install the pump. THEN do the final band adjustment procedure as found in the FSM.
Tools needed:
Slide hammer
7/16" x 2" bolt & washer
1/2" socket + a long-ish extentsion
3/8" socket
Inch-lb torque wrench
Hammer
flathead screwdriver (to drive out the old bushing)
Shop press (or equivalent to press in the new bushing)
Feeler gauge
Assemblee Goo
Torque Specs
Pump-support bolts: 15 ft-lbs
Pump-case bolts: 175 in-lbs (this is incorrectly listed as 175 foot-lbs in the ATSG manual)
Tolerances
Ring gear to housing: 0.001" - 0.003"
Tooth clearance: 0.005" - 0.010"
End clearance*: 0.004" - 0.008"
*how far do the pump gears sit below the rest of the pump housing; this is not captured in my video.
Removing the pump:
Overhauling the pump:
While you have the pump split open is a great time to consider doing the breather relocation. You can do a better job tapping & cleaning with the pump separated. I've seen others actually weld the hole shut. Either way, now is the time to tackle that project.
Re-installing the pump:
Lots of reasons why you might need to remove your transmission pump, even outside of rebuilding a 30RH or a 32RH (or 904 or 999 out of a YJ, for instance). You may just be leaking at the gasket, o-ring, front seal, or maybe you're just re-locating your breather.....in which case you'll need many of these same steps.
It is 100% possible to replace the front seal without removing the pump in general, but (a) it requires caution as the stator shaft is in the way so you have limited angles to attack the seal and (b) sometimes it just doesn't want to come out. Of those times, you may have to actually take the pump apart and drive the seal out from behind.
In general, you're probably going to have to replace the gasket any time you take the pump out because it pretty much always comes out in pieces. And any kit that includes the gasket also includes the giant o-ring, so you're going to be doing all those steps every time.
If you're replacing the pump, they are interchangeable for the most part. Especially the 30RH & 32RH from a TJ. If you get into some of the different models these units (or variations of these units) went into you may find they are less interchangeable. The lockup/non-lockup is probably the easiest thing to visually identify; the lockup has 3 check balls inside whereas the non-lockup has 2 check balls. It does not appear that this is user-serviceable in any way. Another variation is related to your torque converter. If your TC has flats on the snout, you will find that your pump gear also has flats on it. If your TC has notches, you'll find that your pump gear has corresponding lugs (which is what you'll find in the video below). Should you need to, you can almost always just take the gears from one pump and put them into another (ie. you bought a new pump off ebay but the gears have lugs while your TC has flats).
Regarding the band adjustments.... if ALL you are doing is removing the pump, working on it, and putting it back in, and will be working VERTICALLY the entire time, you probably don't need to mess with the band adjustment. If you at any point won't be fully vertical (i.e. you're doing the breather relocation), you should fully tighten down the band adjuster to hold the forward drum in place. If you don't, you risk the clutch teeth coming misaligned & having a thrust washer move on you. And if you have to correct that, I'm not kidding when I say you should just complete the rebuild at that point. Then, when you go to put the pump back in, I recommend you loosen the band adjuster screw to allow the drum some lateral play as the pump reaction shaft tries to center the drum as you install the pump. THEN do the final band adjustment procedure as found in the FSM.
Tools needed:
Slide hammer
7/16" x 2" bolt & washer
1/2" socket + a long-ish extentsion
3/8" socket
Inch-lb torque wrench
Hammer
flathead screwdriver (to drive out the old bushing)
Shop press (or equivalent to press in the new bushing)
Feeler gauge
Assemblee Goo
Torque Specs
Pump-support bolts: 15 ft-lbs
Pump-case bolts: 175 in-lbs (this is incorrectly listed as 175 foot-lbs in the ATSG manual)
Tolerances
Ring gear to housing: 0.001" - 0.003"
Tooth clearance: 0.005" - 0.010"
End clearance*: 0.004" - 0.008"
*how far do the pump gears sit below the rest of the pump housing; this is not captured in my video.
Removing the pump:
Overhauling the pump:
While you have the pump split open is a great time to consider doing the breather relocation. You can do a better job tapping & cleaning with the pump separated. I've seen others actually weld the hole shut. Either way, now is the time to tackle that project.
Re-installing the pump:
