2006 TJ Automatic Transmission Not Shifting

[98TJHP]

Hey Everyone,

I just bought a 2006 Jeep TJ 65th anniversary edition with a 4.0l and an Auto Transmission. The guy said the shift cable keeps breaking and I think I found why. The shift shaft on the trans isn’t moving. I think it’s stuck in neutral because the jeep rolls. Since it’s not in park, it won’t let me turn the engine on to see how that runs. I’m curious if it’s the neutral safety switch is there any way to bypass it to see if I can get the shift shaft to twist so I can put it into Park and start the engine?

Thanks!!

 

[hear]

It should start in neutral as well, that's why the call it the neutral safety switch. I'm not familiar with the conectors on your 42RLE, but the general idea is that if you can jump the NSS, you can make the engine think you're in Park or Neutral and allow it to fire up. If you get underneath the jeep, you can probalby turn the shift selector shaft by hand to get it into park.

As far as the cable that "keeps breaking" that seems extremely unlikely. There is a bushing that attaches the shifter to the cable that is prone to break. I think you need to get under the jeep while somebody tries to shift it so you can see what is actually happening. Then we can better advise you.

 

[98TJHP]

It should start in neutral as well, that's why the call it the neutral safety switch. I'm not familiar with the conectors on your 42RLE, but the general idea is that if you can jump the NSS, you can make the engine think you're in Park or Neutral and allow it to fire up. If you get underneath the jeep, you can probalby turn the shift selector shaft by hand to get it into park.

As far as the cable that "keeps breaking" that seems extremely unlikely. There is a bushing that attaches the shifter to the cable that is prone to break. I think you need to get under the jeep while somebody tries to shift it so you can see what is actually happening. Then we can better advise you

Yeah I was thinking all of that as well. I tried to move the shift selector by hand and it will not turn. It seems someone replaced the selector that attaches to the shaft on the trans and it was slightly loose and fell off so Ill have to bolt it back on. I wasn't sure if there is a solenoid that makes it so you cannot turn the shifter selector underneath by hand for any reason.

 

[hear]

The shift selector is really just a manually controlled valve, no solenoids involved afaik. Although the pictures of the 42RLE valve body confuse me...I've never seen another transmission (and I've watched more rebuild videos than anyone on the planet) with that tall stalk thing that's right in the area of the shift selector. Regardless, the only resistance you should feel is a spring loaded check ball against a rooster comb. On the 32RH you can manipulate it by hand, I would imagine you can do the same on the 42RLE but I've never tried it. I really need to rebuild a 42RLE so I can get a firsthand knowledge of how it works.

 

[98TJHP]

The shift selector is really just a manually controlled valve, no solenoids involved afaik. Although the pictures of the 42RLE valve body confuse me...I've never seen another transmission (and I've watched more rebuild videos than anyone on the planet) with that tall stalk thing that's right in the area of the shift selector. Regardless, the only resistance you should feel is a spring loaded check ball against a rooster comb. On the 32RH you can manipulate it by hand, I would imagine you can do the same on the 42RLE but I've never tried it. I really need to rebuild a 42RLE so I can get a firsthand knowledge of how it works.

View attachment 643437

Yeah that looks like what the valve body looks like and I was wondering if the Shift solenoid block went bad causing it to be stuck in limp mode second gear and therefore not allowing the jeep to turn on. Do you think I should replace that entire valve body and all those parts that you posted in the pic or just the solenoid? I found you can buy it as a whole kit. Also if I should can I just replace it with the transmission still in the jeep?

Thanks again!

 

[hear]

I can't give you any good recommendation on if you should replace some/all, or if the problem is elsewhere. Having said that, replacing the valve body can usually be done with the transmission in the jeep, although I've never done it on that specific transmission. Sometimes there is a plug that is an o-ring fit that needs to be "coerced" to come out, and sometimes that requires you to have more access to the top side of the case to push it out. Again, I'm somewhat out of my depth on 42RLE troubleshooting, but I'm more likely to reply on these topics than anybody else so you're stuck with me.

 

[98TJHP]

I can't give you any good recommendation on if you should replace some/all, or if the problem is elsewhere. Having said that, replacing the valve body can usually be done with the transmission in the jeep, although I've never done it on that specific transmission. Sometimes there is a plug that is an o-ring fit that needs to be "coerced" to come out, and sometimes that requires you to have more access to the top side of the case to push it out. Again, I'm somewhat out of my depth on 42RLE troubleshooting, but I'm more likely to reply on these topics than anybody else so you're stuck with me.

Haha well I appreciate all of the help already! I think im going to pull my pan and see what I can see and go from there. I was hoping there was a way to get the transmission to release so I can at least turn on the jeep.

 

[hear]

Since I'm out of first hand info, I "asked a friend." Seems like #3 or #4 is most likely, but I'm just guessing.

If the shifter feels “stuck”​

Typical causes:

1. Shift cable binding/frozen
   • The cable sheath can rust, seize, or kink.
   • Quick test: disconnect the shift cable from the transmission lever and see if the lever moves freely by hand. If it does, the cable or shifter assembly is the culprit.
2. Shifter interlock
   • On many Jeeps, the brake-shift interlock (solenoid in the shifter) prevents moving out of Park unless the brake pedal is pressed. If that solenoid sticks, the shifter can feel locked.
   • Often you can use the small override slot (sometimes hidden near the shifter) to release it.
3. Manual lever jammed at the transmission
   • If the lever on the side of the 42RLE itself is stiff or seized, the problem is at the transmission end (rooster comb, detent spring, or internal valve).
4. Internal transmission issue
   • Rare, but if the manual valve or detent mechanism inside the valve body is jammed, the lever won’t move.

 

[98TJHP]

Since I'm out of first hand info, I "asked a friend." Seems like #3 or #4 is most likely, but I'm just guessing.

If the shifter feels “stuck”​

Typical causes:

1. Shift cable binding/frozen
   • The cable sheath can rust, seize, or kink.
   • Quick test: disconnect the shift cable from the transmission lever and see if the lever moves freely by hand. If it does, the cable or shifter assembly is the culprit.
2. Shifter interlock
   • On many Jeeps, the brake-shift interlock (solenoid in the shifter) prevents moving out of Park unless the brake pedal is pressed. If that solenoid sticks, the shifter can feel locked.
   • Often you can use the small override slot (sometimes hidden near the shifter) to release it.
3. Manual lever jammed at the transmission
   • If the lever on the side of the 42RLE itself is stiff or seized, the problem is at the transmission end (rooster comb, detent spring, or internal valve).
4. Internal transmission issue
   • Rare, but if the manual valve or detent mechanism inside the valve body is jammed, the lever won’t move.

Yes! Exactly what I was suspecting as the issues as well. I think maybe the solenoid block which i have read is the "Valve" and causing that issue.

 

[hear]

Yes! Exactly what I was suspecting as the issues as well. I think maybe the solenoid block which i have read is the "Valve" and causing that issue.

I think the solenoid is more of a lock that prevents movement in some scenarios. The valve is just a skinny shaft that allows fluid flow inside the valve body. But I'm going to have to learn along with you on this one.

 

[DirtDawg]

Yes! Exactly what I was suspecting as the issues as well. I think maybe the solenoid block which i have read is the "Valve" and causing that issue.

Before you proceed too far as outlined above, have you confirmed the shift interlock isn't broken below your shift handle? The 05 TJ I bought 3+ months ago was balky changing out of park (required popping-up the shifter bezel and manually releasing), which prompted me google and find the solution in this (and similar) topics on this forum. No chopsticks here, so I used a suitable diameter plastic coat hanger cut to length with shrink sleeve over that to optimize fit. Completely solved my problem!
2003-2006 42RLE transmission shift interlock fix

 

[98TJHP]

Before you proceed too far as outlined above, have you confirmed the shift interlock isn't broken below your shift handle? The 05 TJ I bought 3+ months ago was balky changing out of park (required popping-up the shifter bezel and manually releasing), which prompted me google and find the solution in this (and similar) topics on this forum. No chopsticks here, so I used a suitable diameter plastic coat hanger cut to length with shrink sleeve over that to optimize fit. Completely solved my problem!
2003-2006 42RLE transmission shift interlock fix

Yes I have looked at that and I can see it releasing the shifter. It’s just the shaft on the trans that isn’t moving

 

[98TJHP]

I think the solenoid is more of a lock that prevents movement in some scenarios. The valve is just a skinny shaft that allows fluid flow inside the valve body. But I'm going to have to learn along with you on this one.

Okay finally got things going!! Put a whole new valve body, solenoid block, range sensor(came as a full assembly in one) and put it in and the jeep turned on! Thank god! Only issue I’m having is that it’s not shifting with the shifter well because the cable is bad/broken so I have a new one on order and I’ll update then when that’s in! But over all the jeep moves forward and back so that’s a plus! One pro tip though about the whole process is that the jeep needs more trans fluid than the 4 quarts of a regular change when dropping the pan. It needs about 6 quarts in total since I did a new filter and all.

 

[hear]

Yeah, how much comes out is kinda wildly variable, especially if your torque converter drained back into the pan. Just fill it to the line or a smidge above, whether thats 4 quarts or 4 gallons. And always make sure you're following the correct process for checking the level. Pretty sure on the 42RLE you can be in park or neutral, (for the 32RH you have to be in Neutral).

 

[98TJHP]

Got it yeah that’s my plan I have it pretty will set but with the bad cable it’s hard to shift into gears so once that’s in I can get the level of fluid perfect.