Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

2005 TJ Rubicon - Boosted Technologies Supercharger Install

Today i finished the installation...

I had to buy a 90mm idler pulley (the previous owner of the supercharger lost the one that came with the kit). Fortunate i found one from a dodge durango.
Also bought an AEM 2.5" air filter that fits the aluminium tube from boosted tech. Covered the tube with fiberglass heat wrap, and it started!!

Now i have to go to the dyno and make the proper tunning (I have to wait for next week)

I´ll let you all know when i test it and how are the results. Thanks all for the help.

Regards

Mariano

View attachment 578900

View attachment 578905

View attachment 578906

View attachment 578909

View attachment 578910

View attachment 578911

View attachment 578912

View attachment 578913

BTW, you might hate yourself later for wrapping the intake tubing with fiberglass wrap, but it looks really nice. I had the titanium/basalt stuff from my pre-cats to the turbo and it wasn't a good time working near it or removing it.

You are currently pulling hot air in through the filter, so the tube probably wouldn't run hotter enough to cause you any issues running it bare (and it might heat soak in the current configuration regardless).

IMO, your tube would run cooler if you unwrapped it and ran a hood louver. But I don't recommend doing that since running a setup similar to the Windstar/Econoline intake cowl that @jjvw runs will provide even cooler air.

I can't run that setup, but I cleaned up the intercooler that arrived heavily wrapped so ambient air coming through the louver would cool the aluminum (all works well according to my IAT gauge).

Screen Shot 2024-12-12 at 8.53.14 PM.png


Screen Shot 2024-12-12 at 8.53.33 PM.png
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: NashvilleTJ
Thanks.

Where do you have the tank?

I didn't like my tank placement options, and I didn't know if I'd continue to run injection if I solved the intercooler puzzle, so I plumbed into the stock windshield washer tank which is about 1/4" to 5/16" thick in the bottom forward-facing inboard corner (below the horn).

Screen Shot 2024-12-12 at 9.06.10 PM.png


Ran the controller to the glove box.

Screen Shot 2024-12-12 at 9.09.10 PM.png
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: mlozano
I didn't like my tank placement options, so I used the stock windshield washer tank which is about 1/4" to 5/16" thick in the bottom forward-facing inboard corner (below the horn).

View attachment 578926

Ran the controller to the glove box.

View attachment 578927

Thanks, i think i will do the same with the controller... inside or behind the globe box.

Where did you passed the cables and hose trough the firewall?
 
...

You are currently pulling hot air in through the filter, so the tube probably wouldn't run hotter enough to cause you any issues (and it might heat soak in the current configuration regardless).

IMO, your tube would probably cooler if you unwrapped it and ran a hood louver. That said, you'd benefit much more by running a setup similar to the Windstar/Econoline intake cowl that @jjvw runs since that will basically pull ambient temp air.

...

If I were to start fresh on things in the engine bay, I would attempt flipping my Windstar canister forward and pull air out of the headlight.

Regarding the insulation, in past iterations of my Windstar intake, I had it wrapped. Doing so reduced the intake temps about 5-10°F compared to uninsulated. It was a similar temperature decrease as adding hood louvers did.

I have the material to wrap my current saxophone Windstar intake, but haven't worked out how to do it neatly with all the new bends and clamps.
 
Thanks, i think i will do the same with the controller... inside or behind the globe box.

Where did you passed the cables and hose trough the firewall?

Drill a hole though the firewall directly behind the glove box. Mine has two holes with grommets and a lot of new wiring passing through there.

On the driver's side, there is a diamond shaped plastic block off plate for the clutch cylinder. Drill through that for things going over on that side.
 
If I were to start fresh on things in the engine bay, I would flip my Windstar canister forward and pull air out of the headlight.

Good to know.

I put the grill flange idea in my back pocket when I saw Blaine's older post of him putting a flange near where I hole sawed for the intercooler hoses from the heat exchanger. This is the route I'd like to try if I ever go highline fenders since my banks intake housing would no longer fit.

Regarding the insulation, in past iterations of my Windstar intake, I had it wrapped. Doing so reduced the intake temps about 5-10°F compared to uninsulated.

I didn't have the same results since I was already pulling in air from under the hood. I saw the same results from many other folks pulling in air from under the hood.

I'm running cooler without wrap and with the large hood louver setup down the center. I chose the hood louver I have over the Genright because the vents are forward facing in the most rear location and, according to charts and images I've seen, the engine bay appears to be at lower pressure in that area, which allows ambient air to flow into the bay right where the intercooler is located (and where the Windstar setup is as well).
 
Thanks, i think i will do the same with the controller... inside or behind the globe box.

Where did you passed the cables and hose trough the firewall?

That's a bit fuzzy, but I probably ran it through the grommet area on the driver side near the ABS tray. I only recall fishing it through the dash. I didn't drill anything. If the harness was already assembled, then I likely but and spliced the wires in order to feed them through the firewall. I did the same for the E-lockers and boost solenoid (since removed).

edit: I may have ran things through where the cruise control goes through the firewall. It would have been one location or the other.
 
Last edited:
Good to know.

I put the grill flange idea in my back pocket when I saw Blaine's older post of him putting a flange near where I hole sawed for the intercooler hoses from the heat exchanger. This is the route I'd like to try if I ever go highline fenders since my banks intake housing would no longer fit.



I didn't have the same results since I was already pulling in air from under the hood. I saw the same results from many other folks pulling in air from under the hood.

I'm running cooler without wrap and with the large hood louver setup down the center. I chose the hood louver I have over the Genright because the vents are forward facing in the most rear location and, according to charts and images I've seen, the engine bay appears to be at lower pressure in that area, which allows ambient air to flow into the bay right where the intercooler is located (and where the Windstar setup is as well).

My thought is there is a cumulative effect from any additional venting and airflow along with slowing heat transfer into the intake tubing. That is why I used silicone pipe on the new intake--to keep the cold air cold. The highline fenders also added four more sizable vents that I can only imagine make for a lot of air movement swirling around the engine. Some kind of mixing fan in the engine bay could be interesting.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikeE024
My thought is there is a cumulative effect from any additional venting and airflow along with slowing heat transfer into the intake tubing.

I agree.

That is why I used silicone pipe on the new intake--to keep the cold air cold. The highline fenders also added four more sizable vents that I can only imagine make for a lot of air movement swirling around the engine.

Seems like a great setup.

FWIW, the previous owner of my kit had the intake tube, intercooler, and charge pipes wrapped in quality stuff, yet, he wasn't getting the lower IATs I've seen even though I'm in hotter ambient temps. Most of that is due to my grill-mounted heat-exchanger being so efficient (same as your transmission cooler), and the other, imo, is from getting a bunch of air in/out across the aluminum intercooler through the hood louver. I believe that cooling effect from the air onto the intercooler is providing dividends (as part of the cumulative effect).

But, I also understand that our setups are not the same, and there's enough differences to know better than to consider them to be apples-to-apples.

I've considered insulating the bottom of the intercooler, but I'm not in a rush to take action.

I don't believe wrapping my exhaust after the cats lowered my IATs, and I don't know yet if the ceramic coated exhaust manifold did much. I'll know more in the summer when I see how high my IATs get on a 118* day. (I don't expect there to be much of a difference in intake temps)
 
Last edited:
Today i have installed the Methanol kit. I made a bracket for the tank and mounted it and pump in the tray below the hydroboost.

One doubt, is normal that the pump make a little buzz when "armed"?. When i energize the yellow wire, it starts to make a small buzz. The pump works ok when i press the "Test" button.

I think i will put some heat insulation behind the tank, may be an aluminium plate or something to block the heat.

SC_METH_01.jpeg


SC_METH_02.jpeg


SC_METH_03.jpeg


SC_METH_04.jpeg


SC_METH_05.jpeg


SC_METH_06.jpeg


SC_METH_07.jpeg


SC_METH_08.jpeg


SC_METH_09.jpeg


SC_METH_10.jpeg
 
Today i have installed the Methanol kit. I made a bracket for the tank and mounted it and pump in the tray below the hydroboost.

One doubt, is normal that the pump make a little buzz when "armed"?. When i energize the yellow wire, it starts to make a small buzz. The pump works ok when i press the "Test" button.

I think i will put some heat insulation behind the tank, may be an aluminium plate or something to block the heat.

View attachment 579084

View attachment 579085

View attachment 579086

View attachment 579087

View attachment 579088

View attachment 579089

View attachment 579090

View attachment 579091

View attachment 579092

View attachment 579093

The pump's electric motor made a slight buzz for me as well.

FWIW, I bet you'd be fine without shielding the tank since plastic is not a good conductor of heat. My plastic parts in that area have held up fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mlozano
Today i finally tested the Jeep, but..... One of the injectors was bad!!!!.... it showed this error code:
P0206 - Cylinder 6 Injector Circuit / Open (Current).

So... i have to buy new injectors and replace it (Have to unmount the supercharger to replace the injectors!) :ROFLMAO:
I now that Flying Ryan recommends Ford Racing 39# or 47# injectors. Any advice where to buy it online? (Ideally with part numbers so i don`t make mistakes).

Thanks

Mariano

WhatsApp Image 2024-12-18 at 2.25.51 p.m..jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: bluescapegoat
As discussed in our PMs I run Bosch 0280156201 injectors because I believed them to be the same ones used by Banks (they used a couple different ones I believe) and they came recommended by Motor Man for my use case.

These two conclusions were independent to one another so that's what I went with.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: MikeE024
As discussed in our PMs I run Bosch 0280156201 injectors because I believed them to be the same ones used by Banks (they used a couple different ones I believe) and they came recommended by Motor Man for my use case

It hit me when seeing your "like" that you and I exchanged these injector part numbers in the past.

Sure enough, you listed the PN that I have saved as a potential alternate (I couldn't remember how I got that info so I didn't list it earlier). I'll label it accordingly so I know who to blame. :)
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: bluescapegoat
It hit me when seeing your "like" that you and I exchanged these injector part numbers in the past.

Sure enough, you listed the PN that I have saved as a potential alternate (I couldn't remember how I got that info so I didn't list it earlier). I'll label it accordingly so I know who to blame. :)

If there's anything I've learned in my years of working on various projects in the garage it's that keeping proper notes and records is invaluable. I have so many spreadsheets :ROFLMAO:

And zip lock baggies and sharpies. Label EVERYTHING even if you say "oh I won't forget what that's for"

You will.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikeE024
If there's anything I've learned in my years of working on various projects in the garage it's that keeping proper notes and records is invaluable. I have so many spreadsheets :ROFLMAO:

And zip lock baggies and sharpies. Label EVERYTHING even if you say "oh I won't forget what that's for"

You will.

Oh yea.

Most things like fastener assemblies and spare sensors get thrown in a zip lock bag with a brief description written by a sharpie.

I didn't have the PDF properly labeled in the Fuel Injector subfolder, which was annoying because I knew it was included for a reason. Crisis averted. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: bluescapegoat
Hello all. best wishes for this new year!!!

@jjvw and @bluescapegoat, what are your IAT readings ind hot weather with the windstar air filter breathing from the cowl?.

My readings are very high, i know my air filter is breathing directly from engine bay, but in this days, with an ambient temperature of up to 93º f my IAT is between 150 without effort and 220 on boost (With methanol starting at 2psi).

Other thing, i installed a wideband. On normal operation, it moves between 14 and 15, and on 5 PSI Boost, it goes between 11 and 12. How do you see this numbers?. (I'm still with OEM injectors, Ford Racing 47# are on the way)

Thanks

Mariano
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator