2000 TJ build advice / opinions wanted

[PTMTJ]

Long time lurker of the forum and finally registered to seek some advice from experts before I start building my TJ.
Back story, owned my 2000 TJ (weekend cruiser) and a built 2015 JKU Rubicon Hard Rock (for trails) at the same time for years but sold the Rubicon awhile back and have decided to upgrade the TJ for mild trails (No rock crawling).

Currently the TJ is a 2000 Sport 4.0 32RH auto with stock 3.07 gears (Dana30/35 axles) on a 33x10.50R15 on OEM 15x8 5-hole aluminum wheels (Canyon style?) with spacers and what looks like a 20yr old 3" Superlift (coils, T-case drop, and shocks). Bought it from the original owner this way.

I'm going to order Fusion Elite 44s for it and replace the suspension/steering with MetalCloak (short arm). I will likely step up to 35x10.5R15 in the future and will retain the stock fenders. Fusion offers stock width 60.5", 63.5", or JK width. With the current/future tires in mind and wanting to get rid of the spacers, should I go 63.5" instead of stock 60.5"?

Has anyone ran these Method 15x7" beadgrip wheels (MR414570121243) on a TJ? If not, anyone see why they couldn't? Considering trying these to replace the current wheels i have on it.

https://www.methodracewheels.com/products/414-utv-bead-grip-graphite?variant=39783879639101

 

[Chris]

First and foremost, those Fusion Elite 44s are a gigantic waste of money. You can run 35s just fine on a Dana 30 / Dana 35 combo as long as you turn the Dana 35 into a Super 35. In addition, if you're going to spend the money on a MetalCloak short arm you'd be much better off going with a RockJock (formerly Currie) or Savvy short arm.

Again, don't waste your money on those axles. They are a solution to nothing.

 

[John Cooper]

I was gifted the Metalcloak double adjustable arms, so far thay have been good for me, just don't buy into all their hype.

Follow what Chris said about the super 35/30 combo and run with it.

 

[DirtDawg]

I owned from-new 2000 TJ 5-spd NV3550, factory ordered and owned 20+ yrs, so I'm quite familiar. Built that up same year with Currie 4", upper/lower JJ control arms (long before most here ever heard of Currie), as well as 4.56 gears/ARBs and much more in subsequent years. Now own 2005 Rubicon bought 7 mos ago, equipped with Rubicon Express' 5.5" long arm kit installed way back then, which had worn-out control arm bushings as those infamously did. I recently installed MetalCloak's replacement single adjustable full control arms for that kit and am quite satisfied. If I'd bought one without RE L-A kit, I'd likely have gone the RockJock / Savvy route but MC's solution is working well. BTW, I also own from-new 2017 JK Rubicon 6-spd, subsequently modified primarily with suspension, bumpers and undercarriage armor, which serves as overkill grocery-getter - now with just 12.2k pristine miles. Not a mall-cruiser - none of those anywhere near here regardless.

I'm relatively "new" here too, along with lots of passionate knowledgeable TJ owners posting tips and opinions. Welcome and good luck with your own project!

 

[JMT]

You’re asking for advice while telling us what you’re going to do. Good luck.

 

[macleanflood]

Done anything to check your cylinder head?

Thread 'How to identify 0331 or TUPY head'

Dec 18, 2017

Hi everyone, I've searched for this and haven't really found any good answer. I have an '01 tj with the 4.0 engine. I would like to find out how to identify what head my engine has on it. I've read that the heads labeled 0331 are prone to cracking and that they were changed to a head labeled TUPY to fix the problem. Can anyone tell me for sure where are these markings are located on the head? Thanks in advance for any info!!

• Vulture
• Replies: 17
• Forum: TJ General Discussion

-Mac