trying to figure out what i would need to do inorder to run a 2” suspension lift and a 1” body lift for 33. Different forums say things, can i just get away with the lifts and regear, or would i need to do tummy tuck, sye, mml, or etc? Don’t do much offroading, more of a daily driver.
2” suspension lift , 1” body lift
- Thread starter 04tj_aoc
- Start date
Do you plan to replace the coil springs or just install a 2" coil spacer? Tummy tuck, SYE, MML are not required for a small suspension lift. You may need a very minor transfer case drop, rear track bar bracket, drill a new hole for front track bar or buy an adjustable track bar, and get a new set of shocks.
2" SL with a 1" BL and 33s. Springs, shocks, rear track bar relocation bracket, longer bump stops. Dropped the skid 1/2" with washers for slight vibes. A MML was done later on, and the skid drop removed.
p.s. That lift was short lived (Jeep addiction).
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2" SL with a 1" BL and 33s. Springs, shocks, rear track bar relocation bracket, longer bump stops. Dropped the skid 1/2" with washers for slight vibes. A MML was done later on, and the skid drop removed.
p.s. That lift was short lived (Jeep addiction).
View attachment 618213
View attachment 618214
Are both pics of the same setup? The bottom one appears to have a higher gap
33's on my daily driver, but wander around rocky mountain fire roads and outer beach a few times a month to base camp out of the jeep.
- 3" SL + 3/4" front spacer
- JKS Front adjustable track bar
- Rear track bar relocation bracket
- Rancho RS5000X shocks & Steering Stabilizer
- Zone front sway bar disconnects & extended rear links
- Transfer Case Drop Kit (at some point I'll do MML and reclaim the lost clearance)
- RockJock CurrectLync HD Tie Rod System (Not required)
- Extended bump stops
This is to get it all to work. Falken WildPeaks at 26psi, t-case cable shifter, limited slip, Yukon 4.56's, B&M short shifter to make it all fun.
Daily road manners are better than I ever imagined they would be. Never failed to get me where I need to go when pavement ends.
- 3" SL + 3/4" front spacer
- JKS Front adjustable track bar
- Rear track bar relocation bracket
- Rancho RS5000X shocks & Steering Stabilizer
- Zone front sway bar disconnects & extended rear links
- Transfer Case Drop Kit (at some point I'll do MML and reclaim the lost clearance)
- RockJock CurrectLync HD Tie Rod System (Not required)
- Extended bump stops
This is to get it all to work. Falken WildPeaks at 26psi, t-case cable shifter, limited slip, Yukon 4.56's, B&M short shifter to make it all fun.
Daily road manners are better than I ever imagined they would be. Never failed to get me where I need to go when pavement ends.
There are a few things that need addressed with a body lift
The fan shroud will need redrilled to mount lower. Unbolt it before lifting the body.Or do a mml, it will bring the fan back up while also letting you not drop the trans mount and lose ground clearance.
If you have a manual trans the shifter can hit the body. Before tightening the body you can move it around to help this.
The pillow block on the steering shaft will need to be extended up so it doesn't bind on the firewall.
The tcase linkage will need a cheap extension plate to keep the zbar horizontal(or spend 200$ on a cable shifter).
Loosen the fuel fill hoses,adjust and tighten.
If the rear driveshaft shakes with a mml I'd rather do an sye than drop the trans mount.but you won't know if you need it until it happens.
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