Search results

Eliminate the rear sway bar and the links entirely.

I ran my 99 as well as others with no sway bars. Yeah it will sway more to a point. recon it all depends on your personal level of what's acceptable. I also did not have to drive on the freeway to work but did run to town occasionally which is 60 miles away or mixed 2 lane stuff. lift height...

Not factory OEM, but have mopar tags? What were you expecting on its parts being jeep is a mopar.

I ran my 99 with no SB's like you are now and you know the difference. So why not just eliminate the rear one.

Typically the leak/tick, on start up because they are cold. Once the engine and manifold warms up the material expands and the noise goes away. This can be the case for both leaks by the head as well as lower down by the flange. The fix is live with it or replace the manifold. Really not a hard...

You dont like the "stink bug" effect ;) Spacers would do the trick for a cheap fix. One of the 99's I worked on was like yours. New 2" BDS lift coils in front and a 1" spacer in the rear and it sat about perfectly level.

FYI the exhaust manifolds are notorious for cracking as well. Gaskets may not fix the noise if thats the case. After you snug things back up do the carb cleaner test around the manifold to head joints and listen for RPM changes which will happen if the intake is leaking.

You use the word "tapped". Takes more than that in a nut shell.

With open diffs its still a 2wd basically.

Might also do some reading up on the 0331 head. Likely all fixed by now but like you im kinda looking for a 97-99TJ and have seen more than my share of crap vehicles. If its not the rust, its the "upgrades" if you can call them that. More like hack jobs from a 16 year old. Keep looking, one will...

Doesn't do you much good now but rule #1, Take what the seller says with a grain....er...big bag of salt when it comes to the CEL or easy fixes. There is s reason it was for sale. Im amazed at some of the BS stories Im hearing as I look for another jeep.

You can see in the pic the conical washer isn't even close to the manifolds. Based off me experiences with 4 and 6'es, you may have a missing/broken stud in the rear and also a intake leak if the gasket is that bad and the nuts that loose.

Funny how that works. I sank my FJ40 years ago. Sat submerged for 2 days as well. 4WD light worked for the first time along with some other that came on. New battery, a oil and gear fluids swap and drove it for years after that. Never could get the stink outta the seats though.

One thing that can be expected when buying a jeep. A 90% chance an clueless idiot had their hands on it at some point making it "better" You can also buy a clamp on 02 sensor bung from Summit or several other vendors if a muff shop is no close. Of course welding one in is best but sometimes ya...

Did you check for a "rebuilt" title? before you laid down the cash?

OH LOD....the purple people eater jeep.

Pry bar? how manly man are your hands? :). Sounds like they might be dragging. I find many of the pads sold these days are punched and have some pretty bad burs on the edges that make them hang up. Might try poping them out and cleaning them up first before doing a full rehab.

I for one have done a few top end rehabs with a old bottom end. Hard to say the outcome of your #3 hole loss of comp, but IMO a new top end on a old 200K bottom end is kinda iffy. I feel for you at any rate with the unskilled labor of todays shops. Hopefully if you go long block you find the...

If you have room to work Id try very gently, with a fine tooth metal blade, remove some of the plug materials edge obviously without damaging the block. Then take a small drift punch on the edge to hopefully pop it apart and relieve that wedge effect in the in the block. This is gonna take...